Plumbing

[La Petite Tools]

Not really a garage but I am remodelling my Dads old house and its maybe 1000sqft total plan on moving the bathrooms and sinks, and install a new water heater. Was wondering if anyone has any experience with PEX pipes and how easy it would be to install everything ( 2 full bathrooms 1 kitchen sink, dishwasher, washing maching)

 

[Kaizen]

Very easy with crimp tool. Never had a leak in over 100 crimps.


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[lis2323]

Pex is reliable and EASY. And WOW two full baths in 1000sq ft?!


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[mmb617]

For many years all I used was copper. Then I discovered Pex. Goodbye copper.

 

[CraigStu]

I was just at our under construction house w/ the builder this week. He likes PEX and uses it exclusively. He said it is a little more expensive but part of that extra is overcome by it's flexibility. You can bend it around a curve where copper or PVC would need a 90 degree joint.

 

[75gmck25]

I used PEX for both plumbing and hydronic heat and it works great. If you are doing a lot of work it is usually better to buy your supplies online, since the big box stores don't really carry that much. Most fittings and valves are much cheaper online than in a store, and you can buy bags of hangars, curve supports, etc. PEX B generally has the best price/performance point.

However, you have to make a few changes in your technique.

- Most installers use manifolds and home runs to each fixture instead of a lot of branching off a single line. You don't have to install it that way, but if you use a manifold with shutoffs you have the ability to control water for each fixture individually, which is really convenient for maintenance on fixtures.

- Its best to plan your layout to allow for mostly long sweeps, so you can avoid adding a lot of 90 degree fittings like you would use with copper pipe. This allows you to have long runs with no fittings except on each end.

- With a typical crimp tool you need clearance for the handles to move. The handles swing out to about 90 degrees, and then back parallel to each other (like bolt cutter handles). For example, if you are running a line parallel to the floor joist you may have to pull the PEX pipe down near the bottom of the joist to make the crimp, so that the handles have clearance from left to right.

They make a compact crimping tool, but I don't know how well it works. Some vendors also use a different kind of fitting where you expand the ring with a special tool, slip it over, and it contracts to hold the fitting. It apparently works well, but the special tool is much more expensive than a crimp tool.

Bruce

 

[3rdgendslmech]

I did the majority of the plumbing in my house in Pex after I found a leak where some old polybutlyene pipe hadn't been changed out. Def buy the more expensive crimp tool. The smaller compact one that you use vise grips to close works great for tight areas but it's hard on your hands. You'll spend more money on the tools than the actual job itself.

 

[Plumbermike]

I don't like pex, worsbo plastic pipe, sure it's cheaper than copper, to the inexperienced plumbers , it's the best thing since hot water.. HOG WASH!! My first experience this **** was in 03, finish foreman residential new construction.. water was off to unit , go about my work setting the china (porcelain products).. ready for water roach coach arrives.. return from lunch.. install pressure reg. Slowly open ball valve.. I hear water splashing on floor, shut off valve , checked things out,thinking what I forgot to tighten.. not me , water dripping from can light.. cut open the lid around the can lite.. shine my light , I see a hole in the worsbo type pipe, I cut out the section, repaired pressurize unit,checking for leaks on my repair, water dripping again.. 7 more times I cut the lid to fix the area where A RAT, chewed for water... Then if not strapped properly. Every 3' opening fixtures causes the pipe to move make noise, office was getting these types of complaints on every track using this new ****.. they say now the material is rodent proof.. what ever that means.. chemicals and more chemicals.. on my side jobs I only recommend copper for repipes .. I'm asked my opinion on pex and I give my opinion. Junk!! Waiting to see when pex starts to popping leaks, from water quality.. solids in water see mostly on hot side. That's chemistry don't Wana bore you people..I can copper under a house with 3 baths by my self walls patched 5 days or less..

 

[6768rogues]

I respectfully disagree with the previous post. I have used and seen in use PEX on hundreds of jobs with no more problems than copper. I have seen copper where slightly acidic water ate it until it burst, not so with PEX. I have seen copper eaten up by concrete, not so with PEX. PEX has fewer fittings so there are fewer joints, leading to fewer failures. Also, if it freezes PEX can withstand some freezing, where copper splits open easily. When we have a copper pipe that freezes, we repair it by cutting out that section and replacing it with PEX, problem permanently solved. If you have problems with PEX, you have a faulty installation. Copper *****, too, when installed poorly.
PEX is easy and cheap. I usually fill it before covering it to test it. When I was a county inspector, every pipe in the supply, drain, waste and vent system was tested. If you don't test, you will have problems with ANY material. If freezing temperatures are expected, I charge it with air or nitrogen to test it. Then I leave it charged during construction in case a fastener damages it. I have seen fasteners go through PEX, but I have also seen fasteners go through copper. Copper creaks and moans, PEX is quiet. Copper sweats twice as much as PEX; sweating and dripping can lead to stains and mold growth.
I usually put a nail plate over it like I do with electrical wiring. If the pipe is within 1 3/8" of the finished wall surface, it gets a plate. As with any pipe of any material, if you shoot a nail or screw through it you have a problem.

 

[jgromada]

I replaced all the galvanized plumbing in my house with PEX. Best thing i ever did. My galvanized was heavily blocked. in my case it was pretty easy as all the old galvanized (and then the new PEX) was located in the basement. I ran new lines up through the walls to the kitchen and bathroom. There was already copper there for the main water supply and up to the second floor so I used Sharkbite fittings to go from copper to PEX.

I used 3/4" PEX for main supply which I went into a manifold. From there all branch circuits to all the rooms were 1/2". I highly recommended a manifold because it allows you to turn off an individual room if you want to work on the plumbing in that room. I actually ran all my lines while old pipes in place to the manifold. My final "cutover" was running to the water supply. Then i individually changed over every sink to PEX one by one starting with the water heater. So all together i had running water back on within an hour and a half in at least the bathroom.

I got all my stuff at Supply House (manifold , tubing and fittings) and the price was not bad, https://www.supplyhouse.com/pex

Lots of lessons learned if you have any questions.

 

[sixty4]

I use Pex for domestic water and heating. I really like the viega fosta-pex. Never had a problem.

 

[La Petite Tools]

Pex is reliable and EASY. And WOW two full baths in 1000sq ft?!


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lol yeah the main bathroom is going to be a master bath and the second bathroom is going to be more in main layout of the house not secluded. We are wanting to turn this into a rental property and there isn't much space for a hottub so might expand the master bath to include something similar and then have the second bath for kids/guests.

 

[La Petite Tools]

Thanks everyone for the advice i'll definitely be going with PEX and i also found out most of the house isn't even copper its steel. I'll have to start a thread in the near future of all the improvements to the house and finishing it. right now it is almost all gutted but have to get a dumpster and drain the water as the tub and kitchen weren't plumbed with shut off valves on them.

 

[jgromada]

Thanks everyone for the advice i'll definitely be going with PEX and i also found out most of the house isn't even copper its steel. I'll have to start a thread in the near future of all the improvements to the house and finishing it. right now it is almost all gutted but have to get a dumpster and drain the water as the tub and kitchen weren't plumbed with shut off valves on them.

If its galvanized steel beware! I had a bunch of galvanized that i replaced and when i cut the old pipe open you could see quite a bit of blockage from deposits. How long has the steel been there? You may want to replace it with PEX if you are doing re-plumbing.

 

[La Petite Tools]

If its galvanized steel beware! I had a bunch of galvanized that i replaced and when i cut the old pipe open you could see quite a bit of blockage from deposits. How long has the steel been there? You may want to replace it with PEX if you are doing re-plumbing.

The house was built in the 30's or 40's i believe and yes the entire house is getting re-plumbed with PEX

 

[bwringer]

Pex is reliable and EASY. And WOW two full baths in 1000sq ft?!

It's damn near impossible to sell a house with one bathroom (BTDT. Twice. *****.). Sort of one of those requirements of modern life that our forefathers didn't anticipate. For anything larger than a one person one bedroom apartment, buyers and renters demand a second bathroom, preferably a full bath.

I guess one to poop in, one to shower in?

Since the OP is mostly gutting the place, it makes a lot of sense and adds a lot of value to add a second bath.

 

[La Petite Tools]

It's damn near impossible to sell a house with one bathroom (BTDT. Twice. *****.). Sort of one of those requirements of modern life that our forefathers didn't anticipate. For anything larger than a one person one bedroom apartment, buyers and renters demand a second bathroom, preferably a full bath.

I guess one to poop in, one to shower in?

Since the OP is mostly gutting the place, it makes a lot of sense and adds a lot of value to add a second bath.

Yeah i've been trying to convince the wife a full bath will pay off when we eventually sell it.

 

[CraigStu]

Another full bath is a great selling point. You could keep the size down a bit by making it w/ just a 3x3' shower stall.

 

[nutjob]

Here is some great info on all the types of PEX. And a great place to purchase your items. https://www.supplyhouse.com/resources/pexPlumbing

Make sure you watch the Comparing PEX Connections video. The type of connection you choose will dictate what PEX you use. I use the PEX-A or ProPEX with the expansion connector. The Milwaukee tool with 1/2" and 3/4" ends runs about $280.

Kevin

 

[Pruittx2]

You've got the tools,,, a brain and 2 hands,, and now with the internet to search codes,, find videos and how to's for about anything, it's pretty easy, if your even somewhat handy.
good luck, and enjoy the time.

 

[La Petite Tools]

Here is some great info on all the types of PEX. And a great place to purchase your items. https://www.supplyhouse.com/resources/pexPlumbing

Make sure you watch the Comparing PEX Connections video. The type of connection you choose will dictate what PEX you use. I use the PEX-A or ProPEX with the expansion connector. The Milwaukee tool with 1/2" and 3/4" ends runs about $280.

Kevin

Thanks, i've seen that website and plan on purchasing from there the main thing i haven't decided is going with the expansion or the crimp/clasp I'm going to run a 3/4" main to a manabloc and then 1/2" to each water fixture just to cut down on connections and possible places for leaks to occur. This isn't a career choice so I wasn't planning on spending an excessive amount on tools for the job. Although any reason to buy a new tool is a good reason.

 

[Firebrick43]

Propex and pex a is so much better. The milwaulkee tool is a breeze and no forgetting crimps.

 

[86turbodsl]

I've heard anecdotal evidence that mice really like the taste of pex. Don't know if it's true or not, but i wasn't willing to take a chance on pex in the walls on my house, it would cost too much to fix. Also copper has anti-bacterial qualities.

Just another data point. Nothing more.

 

[La Petite Tools]

I've heard anecdotal evidence that mice really like the taste of pex. Don't know if it's true or not, but i wasn't willing to take a chance on pex in the walls on my house, it would cost too much to fix. Also copper has anti-bacterial qualities.

Just another data point. Nothing more.

Well i'm guessing if i get a mouse problem I didn't remodel the house properly lol.

 

[Lonstar]

Thanks, i've seen that website and plan on purchasing from there the main thing i haven't decided is going with the expansion or the crimp/clasp I'm going to run a 3/4" main to a manabloc and then 1/2" to each water fixture just to cut down on connections and possible places for leaks to occur. This isn't a career choice so I wasn't planning on spending an excessive amount on tools for the job. Although any reason to buy a new tool is a good reason.

Expansion tools and fittings are going to cost more. If you don't do it for a living stick with crimp, and by that I mean the copper rings and full 360 degree crimp, not the pinch crimp (tool pinches a little raised band that squeezes the rest of the ring.

I've plumbed several apartment buildings I own. One was a 7 unit where I gutted all the existing plumbing and replaced with pex. Seven separate home runs from water main at one end of the building to a manifold under each apt, then each manifold had 5 cold lines to each faucet and the water heater, then the hot to a manifold and then faucets. If you have a good crimper and are square with the ring when you clasp the crimp, you don't have to worry about leaks....don't worry about cutting down on connections because of that (but don't add more just because).

The type of crimper I use has different size dies, change the size by removing a screw on each die. Great tool, never had a leak unless I crimped the ring on an angle and didn't notice (it's pretty obvious, just need to look at the ring after crimping it). Never had to adjust the crimp pressure from it's factory setting either. It just works. That said, I ended up buying fixed 1/2" crimper. When you have, say, the 3/4" die on the crimper, you want to do all your 3/4" work before switching to 1/2". But it doesn't always work that way. Changing the dies is easy, but call me lazy - I don't like swapping them back and forth. So I bought a fixed 1/2" crimper and keep the 3/4" dies on the other one most of the time.

Someone else mentioned the need to have clearance to get the crimper in to make the connection. 1000% agree. The handles have to be pulled apart pretty wide to get it over the ring. Doesn't seem like much, but wait till you're in a somewhat cramped area and you'll get it. Sometimes the hardest part of the job is getting the damn crimper in an area to make the crimp. When I bought the fixed 1/2" crimper I got one that's made to work in tight areas. It cost more than a longer handled one, but it's nice to have. Doesn't help with tight 3/4" crimps, but makes life easier with 1/2".

Don't waste your money on those metal brackets that hold the pex at 90 degrees for corners. Waste of time, waste of money, not needed. Learned that from experience.

Also agree supply house is the place to go. Excellent prices and extremely fast shipping. Free if over $75 if I remember correctly. Bought 99% of my stuff from them. I think I bought the 5 port manifolds from another online pex supply warehouse cuz I liked them better. I didn't get the ones with the shutoff valve built in, didn't see the need.

 

[PeterT]

I only use copper, Pex has higher risks for cancer.

 

[86turbodsl]

Well i'm guessing if i get a mouse problem I didn't remodel the house properly lol.

Yah right. Because no properly built houses have mice in them...

 

[volvosrock]

replumbed my entire house a few years ago. No issues, less than $1000, with tools.


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