Plunge / Track saw

[PeterT]

Can anyone recommend a good track saw? Makita,, Dewalt,,etc.

Looking for something I can use to trim the bottom of doors, cut plywood precisely, etc.

I see this Makita on Zoro looks nice, if I wait until a 25% off would be about $375. Is there anything in specific to look out for on these?

https://www.zoro.com/makita-plunge-...eF4X1q4AhLCyHDq0163MXBoCG8_w_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[MushCreek]

The Festool is the Mac Daddy of track saws, but a local tool shop raved about the Makita system, and they sell Festool. He didn't have anything good to say about the DeWalt (and he sells those, too.) I wish I had had one when I was building my kitchen cabinets.

 

[jloehlein]

I made a couple of these DIY saw tracks out of plywood scraps and they work great. Can't beat the price either. I'd make one and try it out to see if it meets your needs.

 

[MushCreek]

When I was breaking down a lot of plywood sheets, I just set a sheet on my huge 8' sawhorses, then slid another sheet on top, and clamped it in place to use it as a saw guide. I set the blade to just cut into the sacrificial sawhorses. Annoyingly, my 'good' corded Milwaukee circular saw won't work with a guide; the blade isn't parallel to the shoe! I use my little cordless instead, and it works great. My table saw handles 24" wide pieces just fine, but full 48" wide sheets are too much of a hassle.

I also have a router jig called Joint-Ability that handles 8' stock. It clamps on the wood, and guides a router for a really perfect edge. Weighs a ton, though, and I only bought it because it was cheap (used). I used it to joint full 2" maple for a countertop, as I don't have a jointer. I also used to refurbish the antique doors in my new house. The edges had been (poorly) planed over the years, so I jointed them to get good straight edges again.

 

[Zeke]

No need for a track saw to trim doors. Use a dry wall square. Score the line first and cut back from that a 1/16th. I've done it that way for 40 years.

 

[BikerDad]

MacDaddy of TrackSaws?
Mafell

Good Track saw?
Festool
DeWalt
Makita

Useable Track Saw?
Grizzly & clones.

When pricing out your track saw, especially if you're going to be using it for breaking down plywood, INCLUDE THE COST OF A LONG TRACK. While you can join two shorter tracks together, the only people who do so out of PREFERENCE are those who have serious storage/transport issues with the long track, or those who truly can't afford a long track.

 

[aka Larry]

I made a couple of these DIY saw tracks out of plywood scraps and they work great. Can't beat the price either. I'd make one and try it out to see if it meets your needs.

This is what I did as well, and it helped me build this.

 

[manwithtools]

I cut sheet goods for years using my 30 year old Porter Cable and a home made guide. Once I got the DeWalt track saw with two different length tracks I could not have been happier. I'm sure any of the good track saws will be safer and more accurate, they are made to cut perfectly parallel to the track and have a truer running arbor than your typical "skill saw" from my experience.

In my experience, it's one of those tools that people will protest against until they own one. I was "on the fence" until I got one with the one piece 103" track, that one piece long track is a must as mentioned by BikerDad above.

 

[JonnyMac]

Track saws are obviously designed to cut long and straight somewhat competing with a table saw... however their blade spins in the opposite direction which is aimed at cutting material that would otherwise have a surface chip risk.
I recently used my regular circular saw with a 72 tooth blade and numerous layers of tape to try and make sure the melamine shelf would have a clean edge finish and although fairly good its nowhere near what a plunge festool would achieve...

 

[bcradio]

Festool and Makita are the 2 most popular tracksaws. The reason to go with Festool is if you want dust collection and/or want other tools in the system. If that doesn't matter then go with Makita.

And I disagree about needing the long track (at least with Festool). It works just fine to join 2 tracks together and cuts perfectly straight. It just takes a couple of minutes to join them together, but is much easier to store and transport short tracks.

 

[PeterT]

Excellent, thanks for the advice,, I am going to buy either the Makita or Festool.

 

[JonnyMac]

Go with the makita (only coz i am considering one so your feedback would be good!!!!)

 

[amguttin]

I have the dealt and have been nothing but happy with it

 

[plain garage]

Do both Makita and Festool offer depth adjustment (e.g. cutting out for a ridge vent)?

 

[rrich1]

I've been looking at the makita track saw and have heard/read great things about it. HD's price on the saw is $404 if you have any gift cards or dont want to wait for any sales from Zoro.

 

[Bill Anderson]

@Peter, I prefer the Dewalt over the Festool, for 3 reasons.
1. The Dewalt track's guide (the part the saw rests/slides on) is centered on the track, so you don't have to flip the trach end for end, to make different cuts. So both sides of the dw track has rubber edge (lacking the correct word rn), so all you have to flip the saw instead of the track. This is a huge convenience, and a major inconvenience on the Festool.

2. The Festool didn't take into account the thickness of the saw base, on the depth of cut scale. That is a pita, because I forget, and set the depth at 19mm for 3/4" ply, but the cut doesn't go all the way through, bc I forgot to account for the base thickness.
3. The Festool doesn't /didn't have an imperial scale, only metric.

My TS55 is approximately 10 years old, and Festool may have corrected these issues, but those issues are enough to make me reach for the DeWalt rather than the Festool.

I will say that the Festool has a noticebly smoother motor, and consequently smoother feel when operating, than the Dewalt, don't get me wrong, the dewalt didn't vibrate or anything like that, it's just that the Festool is more refined. But the inconveniences of the Festool, made me prefer the Dewalt.

 

[Ghost11]

I have only used a dewalt and it works great, the rubber on the guides wear out eventually but can be bought and replaced. Makita and festool make great tools as well. Tough choice. I think you be happy with any of them.

 

[guy48065]

I have the Dewalt. Comparing a track saw to a circ saw with a guide is apples/onions. Every circ saw I've owned, corded or cordless, had a bunch of arbor end play so even with an expensive blade it chipped the hell out of thin veneer. My track saw has zero end play, perfectly aligned to the shoe & track, and gives a chip-free cut as good as my Unisaw (with a Forrest blade).

 

[Tenex]

Hold on to your pennies. Milwaukee just introduced a brushless track saw. Should be interesting to see how it stacks up.

 

[boiler7904]

I've had the DeWalt for going on 6 years. I added the router adapter and a dedicated router a couple of years ago for dadoes across sheets of plywood - namely for building cabinets. Overall I'm happy with the system and it has worked pretty flawlessly.

My two biggest complaints are that DeWalt hasn't built on the track as a system like Festool and that they have quit making some of the original accessories. If you don't have the longest track, joining two shorter tracks works for ripping full sheets of plywood but you have to watch how you join the tracks so they are tight and aligned or you can get a long gentle curve instead of a straight line.

I've been meaning to make some parallel guides for my tracks for a while so that's on the list for this spring before I make cabinets for my son's nursery. Also planning to take a page out of Festool's book buy building a boom arm of some sort to get the power cord and vac hose off the ground.

 

[MushCreek]

I have one of those cheap 2 piece saw guides, but it's of limited usefulness. One, it's two piece, and the pieces don't align perfectly no matter what you do. Secondly, it's flimsy enough that it bows if you put too much side pressure on the saw. Not enough side pressure, and the saw walks away from the guide; too much, and the guide bows. That's why I finally just started using the side of another sheet of plywood. I finish cut everything on the table saw anyway, so I just break the sheets down so I can handle them.

 

[thebeekeeper1]

As others have mentioned, a circular saw with a good (fine tooth) blade, and masking tape, and a $15 HF edge guide will do a perfect job.

Edit: Their site lists it for $25 but the most recent flier has a Super Coupon for $14.99

http://www.harborfreight.com/50-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66581.html

 

[TLCObsession]

Do both Makita and Festool offer depth adjustment (e.g. cutting out for a ridge vent)?

I wouldn't use a track saw for this. A regular circular saw is plenty accurate.

 

[ilovevocs]

I almost walked out of the tool store yesterday with a festool. Salesman says it was in stock then he went to get it and it was out of stock. After further consideration I decided to continue using my cheap extruded guide and my harbor freight clamps.

 

[scooby074]

I got the Makita. Been very happy with it. Cuts laser straight and clean. Every bit as nice as the Festool for 1/2 the price up here. Rails are much cheaper as well.

 

[guy48065]

Hold on to your pennies. Milwaukee just introduced a brushless track saw. Should be interesting to see how it stacks up.

Meaning it's a cordless?
Save a LOT of pennies!

 

[msnow]

Hold on to your pennies. Milwaukee just introduced a brushless track saw. Should be interesting to see how it stacks up.

April fools or no? I haven't heard about this but would be extremely interested.

 

[Tenex]

April fools or no? I haven't heard about this but would be extremely interested.

I should have done more research before posting. Apparently, this was an April Fool's joke and I've been had. The photo seems legit though.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDprVc6kxLy/

 

[Iron-Iceberg]

I should have done more research before posting. Apparently, this was an April Fool's joke and I've been had. The photo seems legit though.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDprVc6kxLy/

It's ok, you just saved me a bunch of money. Ha

 

[Git]

As others have mentioned, a circular saw with a good (fine tooth) blade, and masking tape, and a $15 HF edge guide will do a perfect job.

Edit: Their site lists it for $25 but the most recent flier has a Super Coupon for $14.99

http://www.harborfreight.com/50-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66581.html

No offense - but when I read things like this, I can only think that "you don't know what your missing"

For years I used one of the best saws for this type of cut - a Porter Cable 314. It is a worm drive trim saw that uses a 4 1/2" blade along with a variety of straight edges - aluminum, wood etc.

When I finally moved up to a true TrackSaw - it was like night and day. Perfect means Perfect. I bought the Festool because at the time, that was the only real choice but as others have mentioned there are several decent saws out there now

here is what a 314 looks like:

 

[joeysh03]

It would be neat if they made that Milwaukee one but seems like a lot of awful work to prod u that realistic photo for an April fools joke. Maybe it really is in the works, who knows

 

[fountain]

I have the Makita and it cuts great! Like others have mentioned the tracks are much cheaper.

 

[tyyost]

I recently bought a Makita, looked at options, as well as rail costs and while the festool has some features, there were none I'd pay for. While I have been woodworking for nearly 25 years this tool has the potential to change how I work. I spent Saturday breaking down ply and the thing is awesome.

There is no comparison between a shooting board and circ saw and a track saw. I have used edge guides too, and used them with my router Saturday, and really considered a router connector for the makita track.

Yes, it's worth every penny.

 

[MushCreek]

I read a number of reviews on the Makita, and there were complaints that their long (118") track wasn't straight. It really has to be perfect to be any good. It's hard to make an extrusion that long really perfect. For me, that's the set-up I would want- a track saw with a track long enough to rip 8' sheets. It's hard to get a handle on just how many bad ones they've sold, as people that are happy don't tend to review as much as people that are unhappy. Also, their long track is rather expensive- well over $200.

 

[jdieter]

Currently breaking down 4x8 plywood for a bar project and using Bora clamps and their saw sled and an a 60 tooth blade on an old B&D saw. Perfect on anything less than 50", between a 32nd & 16th bow on 8' cuts. Less than half the cost of a panel saw and can use the clamps for straight edge with router, jig saw etc.

 

[todd_fuller]

One thing that I've only seen mentioned once in the discussion of purpose-built track saw vs circular saw and guide is tear-out. This makes the tool more than just for breaking down sheet goods. You can cut them to their final dimensions the first time. Also, the Festool (and I imagine the Makita too) has a guard so the off-cut side has decent cut quality too. No need to rough cut then final dimension on the table saw... it's just done. IMHO, this is where you get your labor savings.

On the topic of tracks, I purchased 2x 55" tracks. I haven't had any trouble getting these aligned together. The key is to allow a small gap and use a long straight edge. I'd also recommend the Makita rail joining bars. They won't dig into the track over time.

 

[BikerDad]

I read a number of reviews on the Makita, and there were complaints that their long (118") track wasn't straight. It really has to be perfect to be any good. It's hard to make an extrusion that long really perfect. For me, that's the set-up I would want- a track saw with a track long enough to rip 8' sheets. It's hard to get a handle on just how many bad ones they've sold, as people that are happy don't tend to review as much as people that are unhappy. Also, their long track is rather expensive- well over $200.

over $200 means it's priced in the middle. The long Festool tracks are $300+. The DeWalt long track is @$170.

 

[bcradio]

Are any of the 3 track brands interchangeable with different saws?

 

[Beemer533]

@Peter, I prefer the Dewalt over the Festool, for 3 reasons.
1. The Dewalt track's guide (the part the saw rests/slides on) is centered on the track, so you don't have to flip the trach end for end, to make different cuts. So both sides of the dw track has rubber edge (lacking the correct word rn), so all you have to flip the saw instead of the track. This is a huge convenience, and a major inconvenience on the Festool.

2. The Festool didn't take into account the thickness of the saw base, on the depth of cut scale. That is a pita, because I forget, and set the depth at 19mm for 3/4" ply, but the cut doesn't go all the way through, bc I forgot to account for the base thickness.
3. The Festool doesn't /didn't have an imperial scale, only metric.

My TS55 is approximately 10 years old, and Festool may have corrected these issues, but those issues are enough to make me reach for the DeWalt rather than the Festool.

I will say that the Festool has a noticebly smoother motor, and consequently smoother feel when operating, than the Dewalt, don't get me wrong, the dewalt didn't vibrate or anything like that, it's just that the Festool is more refined. But the inconveniences of the Festool, made me prefer the Dewalt.

These are some of the reasons I went with the Dewalt as well. I almost went for the cordless version, but I decided I'd rather have to not worry about charging another battery...


Another reason I like the dewalt is they put sliders on the side of the saw (on the blade guard) so if you lay the saw on its side, on the sliders, the top of the blade is 3/4" from the floor; makes it real easy to cut out the bottom of a door jamb or whatever to lay in hardwood flooring.

If the floor across the door opening is level and flat with the door, you can even cut the bottom of the door off without taking it down..

I also have the router attachment which works well, but I don't use it that frequently.. Overall I love the saw and the system.. it leaves a really nice cut.

 

[todd_fuller]

...
Another reason I like the dewalt is they put sliders on the side of the saw (on the blade guard) so if you lay the saw on its side, on the sliders, the top of the blade is 3/4" from the floor;
...

That's something I never noticed on the DeWalt saw. For that niche market, that's a killer feature.