rippledabs
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- Aug 13, 2017
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Anyone have recommendations? I just built a plywood work bench, and it's a bit splintery.
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Plywood bench top epoxy or coating
- Thread starter rippledabs
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Where ? on the top or edge ? The edge can be trimmed out with a 3/4" pine board and easily replaced when damaged.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Cover the top with a layer of 1/4" tempered hardboard. It's cheap and durable, withstands oils reasonably well, looks pretty good, and when it does get beat up it's easily replaced.
I used the left over urethane from the ones used on floors.... came out really nice...
mine is double plywood 5/8.... the urethane for floors are thicker... 2 coat makes surface pretty and pretty tough.not the best for beating stuff though.
mine is double plywood 5/8.... the urethane for floors are thicker... 2 coat makes surface pretty and pretty tough.not the best for beating stuff though.
Nothing added... will take the pic tomorrow when I clear the junk off it... seems the more bench I build the more things find habitat to it....
The semi gloss version of this ...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...rior-Polyurethane-for-Floors-130512/202056452
The semi gloss version of this ...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...rior-Polyurethane-for-Floors-130512/202056452
xyster101
Well-known member
I just sanded my cheap plywood top and painted it. No splinters. I like the hardboard idea then just replace it.
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BuffettFan
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I use the replaceable hardboard top. Beat up one side, turn it over, beat up the second side, replace, repeat.
Yep----this is what I've had on both my workbench and 4 x 8 work table for years! I drench it with Danish oil, several coats, as much as it will take, before wiping off and letting dry before re-coating. This really 'toughens' the surface, yet it is renewable by simply putting more on as needed----it doesn't form a film that will flake off when it gets scratched or cut on. I made my 4 x 8 work table with wood edges that stick up 1/4" to 'capture' the Masonite, so I don't need to fasten it down. Then when it gets too beat up, I can simply flip it over and start over, but I've never worn one out yet!
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OP
rippledabs
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Sounds like hardboard is a great solution. I'll see what the local home depot has in stock.
coachrick
Well-known member
I miss the 12 foot long workbench built with 2x4s on edge back at the 1950s house. No idea how old it was when I decided to overlay the top with hardboard...MAN, that looked GOOD!
Of course, a clean workbench is a sign of a sick mind, so I had to dedicate only one half to staying "pristine", while the other half was used for serious work. No such space available in the current townhouse, dang it.
I made a plywood topped bench. I sanded the top smooth and routed the edge. Used plain old urethane. Came out nice. This bench is not good for beating on things and doesn't work well with chemicals. Have gotten carb cleaner and brake cleaner on it. Wiped up quickly but still dulled the urethane. If I did it again I would use the bar top urethane. Still wouldn't be heavy duty friendly but it would look a whole lot better.
Don
Don
Lelandwelds
Well-known member
My favorite was a three legged glulam from a new church building. Didnt move much. I was always screwing down jigs or spilling glue on my plywood workbench. If it splintered, I hit it with the angle grinder. When it got bad, I just added another layer. It was up to four layers. I started out 3/4 Baltic birch, then CDX, and the last was that MDO sign material.
They didnt get a lot of TLC but I miss them. Always did want one of those fancy ones from the magazine.
They didnt get a lot of TLC but I miss them. Always did want one of those fancy ones from the magazine.
^^^This, did the same thing but used some free 3/8" MDF that finished with a water clean up polyurethane. Former employer got 4 X 12 sheets of aluminum sandwiched between particle board or MDF.
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rayra
Well-known member
This. I've also used melamine-coated particle board and pressboard to good effect. Bright white, fluid-resistant, can write notes on it
This one I just did, going to be a portable assembly flat table top on saw horses if I am going to weld on it, probably will be using some sort of flat metal pieces to insulate... used the same poly and a wood sealer/stain. I am going to just leave it at 1 coat since it's more for somewhat of an easy cleanup protection finish than anything.... But it uses the same leftover floor polyurethane.
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Falcon67
Well-known member
I use concrete and deck paint, color mix from Lowes. Holds up well, easily renewed if desired.
@MarkG How does this compare to melamine which is my other choice? I'd imagine that melamine is easy to wipe up spills and paint, and easy to brush clean (I like the idea of using a pencil or dry erase marker on it). However, I know I'll get a drill bit to bite into it on accident. I'm so not a fan of particle board.
Also, what do you mean by the Danish oil "toughening" it?
I'm just your typical homeowner. Will assemble stuff on it, paint on it, sand on it, bang on it, etc.
I've constructed the table to double as my table saw outfeed. Table top is 42" x 82" of sanded 3/4" plywood.
Thanks All.
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I just happen to run across this. Was interested for my bar, but maybe it'll work on workbenches too?
http://www.bestbartopepoxy.com/epoxy?gclid=CL-C3NP3_NYCFYQ7gQodP0YP9g
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http://www.bestbartopepoxy.com/epoxy?gclid=CL-C3NP3_NYCFYQ7gQodP0YP9g
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JMartel
Well-known member
You need to put solid wood around the edges of it to stop the ply from chipping up on the edges. A 1x2 all the way around will work fine. You could use a roundover bit in a router as well, but trimming it in solid wood is the better choice.
Falcon67
Well-known member
This is 2x4 frame, 1/8 hardboard over 3/4 ply over 7/16 OSB. Trimmed with 1x2 then painted. The hardboard is tacked down with drops of RTV so it's removeable if it gets chewed up. It's been 6 years including rebuilding cylinder heads on it, still working well and not tore up.
Detail
speed bump
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danielS6855
Member
I know this is an old thread, but where are you guys getting the 1/4" Tempered Hardboard at?
Falcon67
Well-known member
1/8 hard board is what I used, any home center has it. I don't see 1/4" anywhere so I wonder if that's a mis-statement. FWIW, my top is now 7 years in use and the only thing so far that has caused damage is Methanol spills (race alcohol) - but that stuff attacks about anything.
I guess it depends on what you are doing with your bench. Polyurethane makes a top to slick if you are working ON the bench, for instance, wood chisels or planes. On my plywood top I throw a couple coats of Daly's Sharkfin oil on it and then proceed to beat the hell out of it. I will get a few years out of a top coat and then replace it, or just re-purpose that bench. The tempered hard board makes a nice surface. I use it on my shelves.
killahog
Well-known member
Thats a good idea . I would have never thought of it.
I am on the sacrificial/replace side.
But I like the mostly white "bath room" paneling.
It just makes things easier to see.
Since you will not need a full 4 x 8 sheet, ask about a damaged sheet.
Every store I have asked at has had them at a deep discount.
Have paid from $2.00 to $8.00 for sheets with damaged corners.
The white color finish has stood up to everything but acetone.
But I like the mostly white "bath room" paneling.
It just makes things easier to see.
Since you will not need a full 4 x 8 sheet, ask about a damaged sheet.
Every store I have asked at has had them at a deep discount.
Have paid from $2.00 to $8.00 for sheets with damaged corners.
The white color finish has stood up to everything but acetone.
danielS6855
Member
Has anyone tried the white hardboard from home depot? You can easily find it with google, it wouldn't let me post a link due to low post count.