manminder
Member
I will be using 3/8 plywood for my 22x50 new garage ceiling.
Any word of advise on how to install would be appreciated.
Thank you
Marty
Any word of advise on how to install would be appreciated.
Thank you
Marty
plywood ceiling
- Thread starter manminder
- Start date
cabranch47
Well-known member
Hi Marty,
I usually take my 7" sander with a med/fine disc and bevely the edges on the exposed side, usually just takes one pass. I then nail it up with my finishing nailer (putting a slight angle for holding strength, not much head on the finishing nails to hold up vertical loads). It is allmost impossible to get the seams perfect and the plywood will vary enough in thickness that they will be quite obvious. By beveling the edges these problems are not noticable. I also think that it is more attractive and less labor intensive than stripping the seams (easier to paint also). You could also cut them to 4' X 4" for a little more custom look. I surbscribe to the theory that if you can't hide it, then emphasize it. Hope this helps and good luck on your build.
I usually take my 7" sander with a med/fine disc and bevely the edges on the exposed side, usually just takes one pass. I then nail it up with my finishing nailer (putting a slight angle for holding strength, not much head on the finishing nails to hold up vertical loads). It is allmost impossible to get the seams perfect and the plywood will vary enough in thickness that they will be quite obvious. By beveling the edges these problems are not noticable. I also think that it is more attractive and less labor intensive than stripping the seams (easier to paint also). You could also cut them to 4' X 4" for a little more custom look. I surbscribe to the theory that if you can't hide it, then emphasize it. Hope this helps and good luck on your build.
K'ledgeBldr
Well-known member
If you like adding fuel to the proverbial fire- go ahead!
Drywall! If it's an attached garage 5/8"X is required by code on common walls to living areas. Otherwise, 1/2" is fine. It won't be the same rating as the 5/8"X but at least it's not kiln dried kindling!
But I'll answer your question-
construction adhesive on the joists and finish nails. If you like the look of lattice strips covering the joints, nail the perimeter of the ply with a crown stapler then nail the lattice with finish nails to cover the seams and the crown staples- throw a few finish nails in the field. The whole idea is to eliminate a lot of prep if you paint.
Drywall! If it's an attached garage 5/8"X is required by code on common walls to living areas. Otherwise, 1/2" is fine. It won't be the same rating as the 5/8"X but at least it's not kiln dried kindling!
But I'll answer your question-
construction adhesive on the joists and finish nails. If you like the look of lattice strips covering the joints, nail the perimeter of the ply with a crown stapler then nail the lattice with finish nails to cover the seams and the crown staples- throw a few finish nails in the field. The whole idea is to eliminate a lot of prep if you paint.
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It is much lighter than drywall.
You may even think of ¼ inch (Underlayment)
If you put it up so that face grain goes across the joists you shouldn’t have any sagging issues.
Paint it first.
That is very much easier.
Then use 1 or 1 1/4 inch drywall screws with a small washer to increase the head diameter.
You may even think of ¼ inch (Underlayment)
If you put it up so that face grain goes across the joists you shouldn’t have any sagging issues.
Paint it first.
That is very much easier.
Then use 1 or 1 1/4 inch drywall screws with a small washer to increase the head diameter.
Steevo
Well-known member
Install it flat, with the nails pointing up.
5lima30
Well-known member
Corrugated metal (roofing) is even lighter than plywood and fire-resistant. A bonus is that it reflects light down. I used it in my garage.
Lol
Corrugated metal (roofing) is even lighter than plywood and fire-resistant. A bonus is that it reflects light down. I used it in my garage.
That's cool
Corrugated metal (roofing) is even lighter than plywood and fire-resistant. A bonus is that it reflects light down. I used it in my garage.
I like that look. What fasteners did you use?
Falcon67
Well-known member
If the joists are more than 16" on center, it's going to sag. And probably sag on 16" centers anyway. Listen to Steveo, ignore the Pyros. 
buzz4041
Well-known member
I did mine in 1/4" plywood and my ceiling joist are on 16" centers. If your looking for a nice finish try something else as it is labor intensive for all the joints. Oh and yea paint it first before you put it up. I made a couple T bar's out of 1x4's and would wedge them in place and then start at one end and work my way back to avoid any sags and nail as I went. Worked for me as I was doing them myself. I got pretty efficient at it. I would rent a sheetrock mobile unit next time though to get them up and hold them.