Plywood floor covering?

[nutmegct]

I'm only able to afford a small garage. Town regs prevent pouring concrete in my rural area (near a wetlands), so I have a 3/4" p/t plywood floor. The garage will be used only to store my 1953 MG.

Lots of discussion on which floor covering to use (tiles, rubber mats, etc.).

What's the purpose of adding a covering?

As one guy said, "I wanted to protect the shiny epoxy on my garage floor".

Is this just over-protecting?

If you had to live with a plywood garage floor, would you cover it with something? Racedeck, rubber mat, etc.?

Thanks.
Tom M.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The only reason I would cover it is to prevent splinters !

There is another thread on GJ about plywood floors. That poster built up the area with compacted crushed stone. Don't skimp on this step ! 6-8" would be good. PT sleeper were laid in, mainly as a nailer for the plywood. Paint/varnish.

 

[nutmegct]

Yep - don't want those pesky splinters!

I'm also thinking of just a simple ribbed rubber mat, designed for garage floors. Protects the surface, easily removed to clean if needed. Like this:

 

[Armorpoxy]

Light storage like this, a good coat of inexpensive enamel would probably be good enough.

The rubber mats are also nice, though more expensive but cover the floor nicely.

 

[BillK]

Tom I would research the PT wood real good before parking a car on it. The new formulation PT lumber is very corrosive. Not sure if it gives off fumes that might cause havoc with a car or not. I do know that any hardware in contact with it has to be stainless or very good galvanized.

Just a thought.

 

[nutmegct]

Thanks Bill. Never even thought about possible fumes from the p/t wood. If so, that could affect any covering over the wood, in addition to whatever is in the garage.

After some googling, I did find several references to toxic fumes if the p/t wood is burned, and to the corrosive effect of the new p/t chemicals on any nails/screws/brackets it comes in contact with, especially in wet conditions like outdoor decks. Also some warnings about long-term handling of plywood and its sawdust. I'll keep looking for references to p/t fumes, which seems to be more the case in a dry garage.

Tom M.

 

[kbs2244]

The roll out rubber should provide a fume barrier.
I have seen cheap roll kitchen flooring used over wood.
Makes it easy to wipe up any spills.
You have to secure the edges and corners very well or they will show through.

 

[nutmegct]

<snip>
You have to secure the edges and corners very well or they will show through.

Interesting. But not sure I follow about edges and corners showing through.

TM

 

[kbs2244]

Sorry.
I was talking about the plywood corners.
They have to meet the adjoining sheets smoothly.
Screw them down tightly.
The thin flooring will not "bridge" the seam.
The edge will been seen in the vinyl floor.

If you care about pattern matching at the edges do a search on laying procedures.
And be ready to use glue and rent a roller.

 

[nutmegct]

Great - thanks. Good point about the plywood not lying perfectly flat. Anyway, so far seems the wide rubber matting gives the best value for money. I don't have heavy equipment, except for infrequent uses of a floor jack (on a 12x12 steel plate).

TM
PS - car should arrive today or tomorrow. I am *psyched*!

 

[AdamIsAdam]

Yep - don't want those pesky splinters!

I'm also thinking of just a simple ribbed rubber mat, designed for garage floors. Protects the surface, easily removed to clean if needed. Like this:

This should provide a decent barrier against moisture as well.

Got a link to this product?

 

[nutmegct]

McMaster-Carr is one source:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rubber-floor-mats/=188zn6f

Also, HomeDepot and Walmart have them.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/G-Floor-...oor-Cover-and-Protector-GF55RB717SG/203450700

Not the "showroom floor" fancy colorful tiles I've seen, but I'm interested in utility, protection, and ease of cleanup - not "pretty".

Tom M.

 

[roscoe2000]

Horse Stall Mats may be an opition (https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/rubber-mat-black-4-ft-x-6-ft).

 

[nutmegct]

Horse stall mats - Never even thought about those. But rubber isn't resistant to petroleum products unless it's neoprene, so probably the vinyl mats are better for a garage.

TM

 

[CJDave]

I am a little confused. Town regs won't allow a concrete floor yet the regs allow a floor and sub frame made of PT lumber? Isn't PT full of dangerous/poisonous chemicals? Oh well. CJDave.

 

[toplessHO]

what ever you do get a bag for storing the car so its nice and sealed up.

 

[Denwood]

We did two 2nd second floor equipment rooms in our building (plywood floor) with the same 2 part epoxy we were using on the main floor concrete. After 5 yrs the plywood epoxy floors are holding up very well.

The epoxy would absolutely protect your floor from oil, liquid etc. spills

 

[Brimse1973]

how much it cost?

 

[s4alex]

I have a -2 story house on a hill. The garage is on the second floor along with the kitchen and the living room and dining room. Bedrooms are on the lower level. The entire house is wood framing.

All that to say that my garage is on 2x3/4" sheets for a total of 1.5" on top of 2x10 joists 16" oc.

First sheet is standard 3/4" ply. The top is fire rated 3/4". Seems are staggered. I had gone through so many choices, from epoxy coating to race deck.

I ended up with the roll vinyl flooring. Coin pattern. Can barely see the roll seams unless you look for it and the floor is smooth no view of subfloor seams. No water damage. No bunching. No movement. Floor is "floating" and not glued. Only glue is the roll seam with carpet tape.

Few years, been happy so far.


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[James-W]

I would go with the rubber maps as well. I think if you look into it you will find they will be the best "bang for the buck" and they will make the floor look pretty good too.

 

[Radix2]

The 7.5x17 G-Floor mats are on sale at Menards for $119 - with the 11% off they are $106

Super good deal - Same exact thing as at the homedepot link for $232

 

[frank001]

I would just remove the plywood and pour a concrete floor. Who's gonna know?



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