Pneumatic Flange Tools

[seanb02]

Hey folks, I have a 1950 Ford pickup in the shop that is a long term restoration project. I'm having to cut out a few sections on the bed here and there, and was originally planning on **** welding in 16 gauge steel to repair. But then I came across panel flanging tools, which would likely make this process much easier. However it seems as thought the standard is up to 18 gauge steel for pneumatic flange/punch tools.

16 gauge is slightly thicker than the original metal, my intention is to make it stronger by utilizing thicker gauge on the repaired sections. However perhaps it would actually be easier to simply get a sheet of 18 gauge to make it easier to work with? I've already got the 16 gauge panel, that's why I would rather not change directions now and purchase a sheet of 18 gauge if possible.

Anybody have experience using pneumatic panel flange tools on thicker gauges of steel? Northern tool has one claiming to do 14 gauge, Sunex has one claiming to do 14 gauge, and Malco makes one claiming 16. I'm leaning towards trying the Malco, however I have no experience with this particular brand. Any suggestions?

https://www.amazon.com/Malco-PF1EV-Hole-Punch-Flange/dp/B00EFA4NDQ

https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-SX278C-16-Inch-Straight-Flange/dp/B002RVRKVM/ref=psdc_2225057011_t1_B00EFA4NDQ

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200658740_200658740

 

[seanb02]

After some more pondering, I'm leaning more and more towards picking up some 18 gauge and doing **** welds. Warping is of concern doing a 5' long weld and there are no replacement bed panels available for the F-2/F-3 pickups. However if I am able to get it right the results are likely to be more presentable utilizing the proper steel gauge and not overlapping panels.

 

[alcorelli]

Overlapping panels leave more places for rust to start

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[joe_padavano]

Don't use flange welds. **** welding is the right way to do this if it's a vehicle you care about.

 

[Stooge]

Unless im missing something, if you already have the 16ga panel, why not just **** weld that in rather than getting another 18ga piece? Unless it is being welded to something substantially thinner, 16 should weld and clean up easier and be less prone to warping than the 18ga, but even 18ga is nice to work and what i primarily use for making new pieces, just a little heavier to shape. I also would not flange something that is being exposed to the outside.

 

[seanb02]

Unless im missing something, if you already have the 16ga panel, why not just **** weld that in rather than getting another 18ga piece? Unless it is being welded to something substantially thinner, 16 should weld and clean up easier and be less prone to warping than the 18ga, but even 18ga is nice to work and what i primarily use for making new pieces, just a little heavier to shape. I also would not flange something that is being exposed to the outside.

I'm still debating on doing that, was thinking that it might be easier to blend the panels together if they were the same gauge, but realizing it doesn't really matter much since it will be getting a skim coat of filler to hide imperfections anyway.

Far as flanging goes, there are quite a few panels on the cab that were flanged when they were replaced years ago by my dad. It's a restoration project that was never intended to be show quality. But I do have the equipment and the skills to do it better that neither of us had back when we were working on it 15 years ago. It hasn't been on the road for 30 years, it's time to fiddle around with it a bit more and get it one step closer.

 

[HMCFab9]

I don't have experience with the specific brands you listed, but I'd think 16 gauge would be really pushing it to get a nice flange.
It seems hard to get a nice even flange with those types of flange tools, even on 18 or 20 gauge.
16 could be welded with little chance of warping it as long as you let it cool a little between welds

 

[finn]

The flange tool works ok on flat panels, but any significant contour changes are problematic, and you end up **** welding or lap welding.

Never had a rust problem when using the flange tool, or even lap welding without the flange, except on daily drivers which see six months of salt exposure.

**** welding is obviously best, but is hard to do without warping. At least at my skill level