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Polaris connectors.

Firebrick43

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West central Indiana
I am going to splice my current house incoming electrical lines for service to the addition. The incoming line is buried rated aluminum cable and enters the crawl in the corner and runs 25' on crawl floor and then up to the "old 2001" 200 amp box.

The addition is against the corner where the cable comes in. If I understand correctly Polaris connectors are insulated. So do the splices need a box? I was going to tapcon a hanger on crawl wall and drape them up off the floor.

If I need a box what type should I use?

To let you know the main breaker is in the polebarn aside of the transformer so the line is overload protected upstream.
 
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Norcal

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Yes the connectors need a box, and the conductors in the crawlspace need to be in a recognized conduit system, open conductors are not code compliant & with the changes being made, if not already, will need to be a 4-wire feeder.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
SO you want to tap the feeder from the barn that powers your house?

Is this in conduit?

It sounds like no judging by the bury rated comment...

Why not just run a branch feeder from the "old 2001" 200a box?
 
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Firebrick43

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It's not in conduit in the crawl. I don't know if it was code at the time or not. When I put the Polaris connectors looks like some PVC conduit in the future.

I am baffled on how to do this as a branch feeder off of the current 200 amp box. I can put a 200 amp breaker on the rails nor get 3/0 copper into that box. Also where the service feed comes in the crawl is less than 20' from the new panel in the additions basement. The old panel is an additional 30' past or 50+ feet from the additions panel.

When did a seperate neutral become necessary? We are still on 2008 here

Any suggestions for an enclosure or junction box?
 
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wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
It's not in conduit in the crawl. I don't know if it was code at the time or not. When I put the Polaris connectors looks like some PVC conduit in the future.

I am baffled on how to do this as a branch feeder off of the current 200 amp box. I can put a 200 amp breaker on the rails nor get 3/0 copper into that box. Also where the service feed comes in the crawl is less than 20' from the new panel in the additions basement. The old panel is an additional 30' past or 50+ feet from the additions panel.

When did a separate neutral become necessary? We are still on 2008 here

Any suggestions for an enclosure or junction box?

Loose individual conductors have ALWAYS been required to be in conduit. Sounds like this install was done in 2001. It should be in conduit...someone screwed up on that that install....

Why do u need 200a for the addition? what will you be running off of the new panel?

Is there any space in the existing panel?

How many wires is there currently in this feeder?

If only 3, then you wont be able to tap it for a new subpanel, as current code requires 4-wire feeders on the load side of the first disconnect, which in your case is in the barn.

Pre-2008 code allowed 3-wire feeders to detached structures as long as there was no parallel metallic pathways between the buildings. If u want a diagram, check out my sticky thread called Electrical FAQs @ the top of this forum section...since you are on 2008, then you will need a 4-wire feeder to the new panel.

If 3-wire is whats feeding the house, then your only option is to do a branch feeder off the current panel...

Post some pics of what you have- current feeder and panel...
 
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Firebrick43

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The new addition is 1450 square feet with a full basement and a large two gar garage. Really it's a whole new house as the original house is 1450 (without a garage). It's sort of being set up as a duplex, about two thirds is for my mother, a corner sun room joins our part, the basement(for everyone) and her part.

The 200 amp panel is for future proofing things. While I probably live here till I die (hopefully, 36 now) and have no plans for tearing down the original house as its in great shape, who knows what the future holds.

I won't be using 200 amps in either. The water heater(in floor heat for the addition) and stove are gas. The old house is energy efficient (2x6 walls and r60 ceiling) and the addition probably half the heat gain as the old part. Small 2.0 ton central air on the old and a 15k mini split on the addition. Rarely use over 900 kilowatts hours in a month.

Looks like I need to consider a new/seperate meter base and new feeder (****) or use a 100 or 125 amp breaker to feed the new panel.

Cutting an spicing the main would have made for easier installation of conduit to bring it up to code.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Aug 14, 2012
Messages
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Location
Modesto, CA
The new addition is 1450 square feet with a full basement and a large two gar garage. Really it's a whole new house as the original house is 1450 (without a garage). It's sort of being set up as a duplex, about two thirds is for my mother, a corner sun room joins our part, the basement(for everyone) and her part.

The 200 amp panel is for future proofing things. While I probably live here till I die (hopefully, 36 now) and have no plans for tearing down the original house as its in great shape, who knows what the future holds.

I won't be using 200 amps in either. The water heater(in floor heat for the addition) and stove are gas. The old house is energy efficient (2x6 walls and r60 ceiling) and the addition probably half the heat gain as the old part. Small 2.0 ton central air on the old and a 15k mini split on the addition. Rarely use over 900 kilowatts hours in a month.

Looks like I need to consider a new/seperate meter base and new feeder (****) or use a 100 or 125 amp breaker to feed the new panel.

Cutting an spicing the main would have made for easier installation of conduit to bring it up to code.

If u have a new service installed on thr house, the existing feeder from the barn will need to be abandoned...
 
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