Pole Barn Bay/Door spacing help!

[askyup88]

Howdy Garage Journal.

I'm getting ready to get into a contract to have a pole barn built but just discovered a possible issue. I was planning to have 2 10x10 doors in the first 2 bays on one sidewall since the post spacing is 10' and that way they'd line up with the lean to post spacing at 10'.

My concern is 1) now I'm realizing post spacing is 10' on center so I really wouldn't have clearance for a full 10' wide door and 2) with just 1 post between the 2 doors I wouldn't have enough side clearance for each door to mount tracks and such.

Here's a picture of what I'm considering as an alternative (Blurry). 1 8 wide 10 tall door and 1 10x10. This still doesn't resolve the issue of not having a full 10' wide opening though.

Any suggestions on what I could do? I really don't want to settle for an 8' wide door. Any ideas how much extra custom door sizes are? Like 9 wide 10 tall.

Thanks.

 

[kj_mustang]

They should be framing each side of your door with a post. see mine below.

 

[rieferman]

If you tell your builder that you would like two 10-foot doors as you've drawn, they'll adjust that portion of their plan to accommodate - their comment about how they space their posts is a general rule that is adjusted based on the specific needs of the building. I'd suggest 2 feet from the corner, and 2 feet between - leaves nice space for opening car doors, moving around etc.

 

[CraigStu]

How about a single 16-18 ft wide door?

 

[Buickspec6231]

You could reconsider your door placement and move them to the gable ends. That way you aren't restricted by width and post placement since the trusses are supported on the eave side of the headers. Also, for us in snow country, with the doors on the gable ends we don't have to worry about the snow sliding off the roof and making piles in front of our doors.

 

[askyup88]

Thanks for the responses and for the picture. I searched online for pictures and didn't find much. I'm pretty familiar with how the buildings go up because I was originally planning to build it myself, I just wasn't real sure how they handle that. Seems that most people don't put doors under the lean to so it added some things I had to consider.

I considered the doors on the gable end but that layout on my property wouldn't really work efficiently and now I'm committed because I've already got my building permit for this plan.

I also considered a single door but just figured it wouldn't look right with at least one post for the lean to smack dab in the middle of the door when you're pulling up.

I'm going to request that the builder do 12.5' on center spacing for the posts under the lean to (building will still be 10' OC) so then I can do as suggested with 2' between the outside wall and door and 2' between the doors. Hopefully that will be my solution.

 

[rayra]

'pretty familiar'? You're kidding yourself, to have missed such a fundamental element of any building plan / structure -
You alter the post placement to suit your preferred door sizes and placements and clearances and use a proper header to accommodate the otherwise unsupported wall and roof loads.

 

[CraigStu]

So move the post. If the building can be designed to have a 16-18 ft door, it can't be too hard to have that same opening at the outer edge of the lean to. The cost of one extra lvl is all that would entail. Could be a double 2x10 or 2x12 would hold it as well since 90% of all the garages w/ 16 ft doors are built w/ conventional 2x headers.

 

[askyup88]

'pretty familiar'? You're kidding yourself, to have missed such a fundamental element of any building plan / structure -

Not sure why this statement was necessary. I never claimed to be an expert and I said "pretty familiar" for a reason...because I don't know. That's why I asked the question. Isn't that the point of this forum?

 

[askyup88]

Thanks CraigStu for the helpful response without insults.

 

[fourbyford]

I have a post-framed garage with 3 doors along one wall... posts are 6x6's... each post has a 2x6 nailed to each side so the "width" of each post is approx 8". Plenty of room to install doors side by side. I've found that roll up doors are available in 2"width increments... no additional charge, but they do have to be ordered.
Shouldn't be any reason you couldn't come reasonably close to 2 10' wide (or nearly so) doors, side by side, without significantly altering post spacing.
One problem with moving the posts (ex, 12' spacing) is that it will affect the purlins in the bays with the wider spacing... would probably need to use the next larger size of lumber... ie: 2x6 may work for 10' spacing... may need 2x8 for 12' spacing.
hth
...D

 

[fourbyford]

...when I built my barn, I wanted to space my posts 10' o/c... we tend to experience "wind events" here (central Wyoming)... as I was applying for my permit, the county building department "strongly recommended" I use 8' o/c spacing which meant I could use 2x6's for purlins/girts. Wider post spacing requires heavier structural lumber to carry wind/snow loads.

 

[askyup88]

fourbyford - This is the issue I was concerned about, how making the change to fit the doors I want will affect the rest of the building like you've said. The rafter spacing and header size on the building and lean to could be affected and mainly wasn't sure if pole barn contractors are used to adjusting for all this.

Good to know about the doors and how yours are done. Thank you.

 

[askyup88]

Wow that's a real nice barn!

Luckily I don't have to worry about snow loads but wind is definitely a concern being about 10 miles from the gulf coast. I'm hoping to get my contract in place this week. After posting here I checked with the contractor and he said they could work the specifics of all the layout when they're on the job to get it the way I'm envisioning it.

I'm glad that I'm blessed enough to not have to build it myself because I'd have a lot to learn if I went that route.

 

[fourbyford]

...are they using rafters/headers??
A more common practice would be to use substantial trusses attached to each post... roof trusses connected by (horizontal) purlins... posts connected by (horizontal) girts...
...no rafters or headers required.
The pic I posted is of the barn I built here... I dont think I have a pic of the garage with the doors installed as you are proposing

 

[askyup88]

The building itself will have trusses & purlins but the lean to would be rafters and headers.

 

[fourbyford]

...the doors on the barn in the pic are from Menards... ordered to the nearest 2" increment... as I mentioned, no extra cost... they order doors like this on pretty much a daily basis... no big deal!
Congrats on getting to build your dream! I like the way the doors will be under the lean-to roof... wish my garage could be like that!
Anyways, enjoy the journey... be sure to post pics!!
...D

 

[fourbyford]

Yep... I'm with ya now!

 

[askyup88]

Will do! Thanks

 

[rburke65]

I was once presented with poles every 10’ but I felt that was stretching it. For a few dollars more, 8’ was a better build. Similar to studs .....24” on center or 16”. Only. A few dollars more a much stronger build. Will you have plans for a ceiling in the pole barn? I wouldn’t go any smaller than a 10’ wide door. For ya shop I went with two12’x8’ doors. Love em!

 

[askyup88]

I'm sure that's an option I could pursue but I'll have no snow load in my area and won't be putting a ceiling in. Have plans to do a mezzanine but it will be supported by it's own posts to avoid putting an extra weight on the building.

Yeah 10' was definitely the minimum I wanted. I'll have 1 12x12 on the gable end also. That's where my 2 post lift will be.