pole barn ceiling/insulation

[hetkind]

Good Morning All,

My pole barn's finished area is 34x40 with a 20' eve height and my question is on the best way to insulate the roof. The erector put on this 1/4 inch thick "condensation" insuation between the metal skin and the wood frame. It has full 12" ventilated soffits and a full length ridge vent.

I was thinking of installing a ceiling under the rafters, and insulating the ceiling...how does 2x4, 10' long (the posts/rafters are on 10' spacing) 4' OC, with a 2' strip in the middle and attaching prepainted OSB to the 2x4s with the long axis aligned. Then leave a couple of access panels down the center to spay loose fiberglass insulation into?

I know the pole barn type construction cannot support an extensive ceiling structure to start with.


A couple of questions:

What is the spacing needed for the blown-in insulation folks for access panels?

Will a framing style air nailer be sufficient to attached the 2x4 to the rafters and the OSB to the 2x4?

Any recommendations on how to do it better?

I don't plan on running ANY wiring or ducts in the concealed attic space. That would require a much stronger and heavier ceiling construction.

Howard

 

[blkhonda1991]

Insulating the ceiling is going to require furring strips to support the drywall so it doesnt sag under its own weight and the weight of the insulation. I dont know what the spacing should be really but i wouldnt imagine youd want to go any bigger than 24" on center with the furring strips. As for access panels to blow the insulation all you need is 1 if the installer is able to crawl in the attic space since they just pull the hose up, if they cant crawl i think its something you'll have to ask an installer about the range of the sprayer.

EDIT: after reading the post again im a little confused...are you putting a flat ceiling in or a sloped ceiling following the rafters?

 

[rburke65]

Very confusing.....do you have a picture you could post?

 

[mtwaterguy]

I'm also a little confused. Ist of all, a properly constructed pole barn should not have any problem supporting wiring and duct work. In addition, the option of adding a ceiling should have been taken in to consideration before the pole barn was built. Trying to add to any existing building should only be done after proper construction is verified.

 

[VC-Racing]

You need to refer to the engineering specs on the truss system. There may have been a allowance to add a ceiling, however if not you won't be able to add anything without stressing the engineered truss system.

I know when my shop was built I did not allow for any ceiling due to the open truss area I needed for my overhead lifting requirements. I did however have a 350 lb allowance engineered into my truss system for lights, HVAC, hard air lines and hose reels.

 

[D KRAGER]

Option #1 tin
They make tall ribbed tin that will span the rafters. Talk to anyone that builds pole barns for prices. (Pricey but easier than the osb)

Option #2 osb
I'm in the process of doing the osb drop ceiling in mine now. My rafters are on 8' centers. I just ran 2x4 between them on 24" centers and am installing osb. Yes I used a framing nailer to attach the 2x4's. Just cut them 1/8" long and wedge in to nail is what I did. Then I'm going to blow in cellulose when I'm done.

Option #3
You could add some spray on foam, but it's kind of ugly and doesn't look finished.


Here is what mine looks like right now, you can see the 2x4's between the rafters.

 

[Garys Garage]

I would recommend the tin. I just got mine finished. Easy install. I used 38inx16ft panels.

 

[Garys Garage]

Option #1 tin
They make tall ribbed tin that will span the rafters. Talk to anyone that builds pole barns for prices. (Pricey but easier than the osb)

Option #2 osb
I'm in the process of doing the osb drop ceiling in mine now. My rafters are on 8' centers. I just ran 2x4 between them on 24" centers and am installing osb. Yes I used a framing nailer to attach the 2x4's. Just cut them 1/8" long and wedge in to nail is what I did. Then I'm going to blow in cellulose when I'm done.

Option #3
You could add some spray on foam, but it's kind of ugly and doesn't look finished.


Here is what mine looks like right now, you can see the 2x4's between the rafters.

Why Osb? Just courious, is it less expensive? I bugeted 1500 to do my 30x48. I used outside grade because it is what they had instock and paid more for it. Menards quoted me prices on 12 foot steel and told me it was 16 foot. When I went to pick it up is was no longer on sale. Was able to buy the insulation on sale although with a rebate. Steel cost me about 1200, insulation was 600 ( 18 in) screws were about 50. I had to put OSB on wall for nailer board and spent about 100 dollars there. 3 walls were done.

 

[hetkind]

I like the idea of the deeply ribbed metal for the ceiling...looks like a VERY clean installation.

Howard

 

[D KRAGER]

The osb ends up being less expensive, although more labor intensive. My labor is free the way I figure it.

If I had the money, yea I'd have the tin put on, but I don't have the money. So I just buy a few sheets at a time and will slowly get it done.

 

[hetkind]

I will have to bring in a rental lift to put the ceilling in, so having all the materials on hand before I start the job is important.

Howard

 

[Garys Garage]

Did mine over 4 weekends. 2 12 foot ladders i bought used off CL. To rent a lift it was 220 a day. Way too much. I used free labor.

 

[5thgen]

Putting in a drywall ceiling can add a lot of weight. 600 square feet of 5/8 drywall is about 1300 lbs by itself. I am in the same situation....I don't want to add a lot of weight. 3/8" drywall will add 900 pounds for the whole ceiling (650 sq. ft.), and my posts/trusses are 8' oc (I have framed the ceiling area with 2x4 though, at 16"oc).

Also I rented a home depot lift for around $30-$40 for one full day (hand operated/cable driven).....$200 sounds way expensive.

 

[Aberdale]

I used drywall for the ceiling in my 40x60 pole barn/shop. I used 2x4 furring strips 16" o.c. as mentioned by previous posters. I had loose fill fiberglass insulation blown in 16" deep. The ceiling has a 2'x2' panel for access. It's worked great so far.

The drywall was by far the cheapest alternative compared to OSB/plywood/ or metal. If the temperature inside is allowed to fall below freezing, the drywall may not be the best solution because of the potential for condensation. But for heated spaces, drywall is hard to beat pricewise.

Dale

 

[hetkind]

I have a 20' eve height, so a lift is a must, $300/week from the local rental place/