Pole Barn Ceiling

[401matador]

I have a 40 x 60 pole barn I am finishing the inside of. I am going to finish the walls with 7/16" OSB but need suggestions on the ceiling.

The joists are 7.5' on center, and I am wondering if using 2x4's as fillers (essentially connecting the joists) is the best way to go. At 7.5', the ceiling panels will flex once I add blown in insulation. I intend to use steel Durapanel from Menards in 36" x 90" sections.

The building is located in central Wyoming. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

[LShee778]

You are definitely going to need some nailers strung across those joists no matter what material you will be using. I would just measure it out and run 2x4's 16" OC perpendicular to the joists. You'll have to cut roughly 6" off the end of every 8' section of ceiling material but if you plan on using OSB then it will be easy to just run all the sheets through a table saw beforehand and then just hang them all.

I'm sure you've already though of this but that the best/easiest way I can come up with.

 

[1grnlwn]

We just did this. We ran SYP 2x4 at 8' perpendicular to the truss chords with hangers. Then we put two studs parallel to the truss between the SYP 2x4s. I wasnt so worried about the steel span but having studs to mount lights/air lines and conduit.

 

[Jeep51]

You will definitely need to run the 2x4's perpendicular to the trusses! Why would use 90" long sheets? If you have help with the installation, get the panels cut so you can install only 3 per row. You have a better chance of the ceiling running straight if you install longer sheets and you will have less seams! Also, do yourself a favor and install the ceiling electric after the ceiling goes in!

 

[shelbyz28]

I somewhat disagree with the above posters. Yes, with the Menards dura-panel you absolutely will need additional structure to maintain the ceiling flatness.

Where I disagree- with heavier metal and taller ribs, you can skip the extra framing. My ceiling has more "commercial" type tin that's thicker and taller ribs hung upside down that's self supporting. The builders were walking around on it (I used boards between rafters when I went up; 250 lbs was heavier than they had tried haha). I have 18-20 inches of blown in fiberglass up there and still plan to hang lights from it.

 

[John in OH]

You will definitely need to run the 2x4's perpendicular to the trusses! Why would use 90" long sheets? If you have help with the installation, get the panels cut so you can install only 3 per row. You have a better chance of the ceiling running straight if you install longer sheets and you will have less seams! Also, do yourself a favor and install the ceiling electric after the ceiling goes in!

Agree with Jeep on all points! Only, comment is the nailers should be satisfactory at 24" spacing rather than 16" as others have suggested. Take a look at my 34'x54' build thread starting at post #84:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98038&page=5

The steel sheets can be ordered in any length desired from a supplier (rather than Menards) so you can custom select the panel length to minimize the number of end joints, get proper end overlap, and keep the panel size manageable for you and your assistants.

You'll love the steel ceiling!

 

[BD1]

Farmer had the panels spray insulate and then put in a drop ceiling with 2x4 ceiling tiles. Got it at a auction cheap.

 

[rcalmus]

I would use white corrugated steel. Call and have it cut to length. In fact, i would use it on you walls too and run OSB the long way along the bottom. By your main work area it makes sense to use mainly OSB. I say this, because having White for your walls really helps with your lighting and painting OSB is not fun. its like a sponge!

I don't have much wall space for you to see what I'm talking about, but this is the idea.

 

[Diesel Dan]

The steel sheets can be ordered in any length desired from a supplier (rather than Menards) so you can custom select the panel length to minimize the number of end joints, get proper end overlap, and keep the panel size manageable for you and your assistants.

You'll love the steel ceiling!

Steel can be ordered to size by the inch from Menards as well.
With the sales Menards has their steel is cheaper than even the local Amish "seconds".

I did all steel interior with 24 OC trusses.

 

[steky]

Working on boxing in my ceiling right now also. I used 2nd grade ribbed metal, bought sheets that where 36'' wide by 16' long. My trusses are spaced 5' apart. Used some metal from a local chicken house that was blown down from a storm when it was being built. Got the last sheets for $10 a sheet. Will be boxing in part of the middle for storage on Saturday.

 

[bigguns69]

I built my 36' x50' x 15' building and finshed off the inside with OSB. In regards to the ceiling, I added 2x4 and 2x6 material as josit material in between the trusses to fasten my ceiling OSB to. I used the metal hanger brackets and put them in place first and used the special air gun from Bostich to faten them to the bottom cor of the truss. I then cut the 2 x material to length in quantity and slipped then into the the hangers, pulled the bottom of the mating trusses tight to the length of the 2 x material and the did the final nailing to the hanger brackets. It cost a little extra money with hte hanger brackets but was the quickest way for a one man shoe to ge the job done 15' in the air on a scaffold. It really helped to strengthen the building from racking from wind loads too.

 

[bigguns69]

Sorry, I did a piss pour job of proof reading what I had typed......

 

[PWC Repair]

That appears to be a common truss, and with the 7.5' oc spacing I'm wondering about the extra load. Were the trusses designed to carry a ceiling with insulation? Most pole barn trusses are NOT unless you specify. I'd hate for you to add all the extra weight and have it fall down next winter in the first big snow.