bowtiebubba
Member
I want to put up a new pole barn and i want to pour the pad first. How does one build a pole barn on existing pad? Thanks Guys
Pole barn concrete pad
- Thread starter bowtiebubba
- Start date
krooser
Well-known member
I'm not sure why you want to do that....but the only way I've seen is to bolt the poles onto the pad using L-brackets or building a steel "pocket" for the poles to sit in and bolt it to the floor.
It's MUCH easier to pour the floor AFTER the building is erected...you've got a built in form...all you need to do is frame the door openings and pour...
Talk to you local Morton dealer or other pole builder for their ideas.
It's MUCH easier to pour the floor AFTER the building is erected...you've got a built in form...all you need to do is frame the door openings and pour...
Talk to you local Morton dealer or other pole builder for their ideas.
astroracer
Well-known member
You want to be careful here. Just pouring a floor may be the wrong direction to go. You could do it, don't take me wrong but, when it comes time to frame up your building your "slab" will not be up to code for footings. A "Pole Building" does not require footings like a stick built and, without footings, you will not be able to stick build on top of the slab. I guess you need to decide which way you want to go and get some quotes with both options.
Mark
Mark
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
It all depends on where you are located as to whether you can or cannot. Bullock Garages used to pour a slab and left it thicker on the edges. It was to code and would pass inspections. Not my cup of tea but they sold hundreds of their garages around Ohio. Other states that do not have the freezing cold and frost can get by with different ways to pour concrete than we can in the cold and snow belt. In our area the standard depth for footers is 36". I think the further you go north the code requires footings to be a little deeper. 42" sticks in my mind for some reason. But the Bullock Garages did not have to even go close to the 36" depth.
OP
bowtiebubba
Member
The only reason i was going to do the pad first was, that i was told the posts rot away in time if they are put in the ground.
Ken Greene
Well-known member
layout sono-tubes at your post locations... pour those then use post anchors to secure the pole barn to the sono-tube peirs..
then you can build the whole building and after your done still pour the floor.
it also keeps all the wood out of the ground and aleviate the rotting issues
then you can build the whole building and after your done still pour the floor.
it also keeps all the wood out of the ground and aleviate the rotting issues
krooser
Well-known member
Pouring a "floating slab" without a knee-wall and footings is standard procedure virtually everywhere...north and south.
I've lived and built garages in Wisconsin and Michigan and I haul building materials into many jobsites nationwide. I see floating slabs everywhere, both in residential and commercial applications.
Just pour the slab deeper on the edges and build. Pretty simple.
As far as rotting posts, my shop was about 15 years old when I bought it and moved it to my lot in 1995. I re-used the old posts which showed no sign of rot or decay anywhere. The soil in the old location was a well drained, but heavy, loam.
Here at home we have sandy soil so I expect these posts to last at least another 2o years. These are green treated yellow pine.
I've lived and built garages in Wisconsin and Michigan and I haul building materials into many jobsites nationwide. I see floating slabs everywhere, both in residential and commercial applications.
Just pour the slab deeper on the edges and build. Pretty simple.
As far as rotting posts, my shop was about 15 years old when I bought it and moved it to my lot in 1995. I re-used the old posts which showed no sign of rot or decay anywhere. The soil in the old location was a well drained, but heavy, loam.
Here at home we have sandy soil so I expect these posts to last at least another 2o years. These are green treated yellow pine.
Old Moparz
Well-known member
bowtiebubba said:
You don't. A pole barn must have the verticle posts in the ground. Having the verticle posts in the ground gives the building lateral support. The bottom of the post is the hinge point under high winds, so you want it to be below grade. The earth around the post will keep it from tipping. If you want a building above grade, you need a different method of construction. A slab on grade is possible, or building on an existing slab, but the building will be typical wood framing that has anchor bolts embedded in the concrete that the walls are bolted to.
Here is a link to what the drawings for a pole barn look like. The depth of the pole below grade will vary based on soil conditions, size of the structure, weight to be supported, etc.
http://www.weimer.org/BarnPlans/index.htm
I have a 2 story pole building I put up about about 8 years ago, & I used pressure treated 6"x 6" posts. I believe the life span will probably outlast me, so I don't worry about it.
Im in the process of building a pole-type barn using a kit from http://www.socketsystems.com . It can be built on top of a slab (this is how Im doing it) and uses metal brackets that keep the poles off the ground to prevent rotting.
It may not be what you are looking to do, but just another option.
It may not be what you are looking to do, but just another option.
Old Moparz
Well-known member
Hey ddjjeep, the link isn't working. I'd like to see that, can you check it?
Nevermind, I got it with this one: http://www.socketsystems.com/
Nevermind, I got it with this one: http://www.socketsystems.com/
christopher keene
Member
i like that socket stuff. ..that might be what i go with next time
Yeah, I dont know what happened to my post, link should have worked.
Anyway, Im real happy with the socket system kit so far. Im still assembling the parts. Hope to have a skeleton up in the next month or so. I will be taking pics of the whole process and will start a thread on here about it. So far, all I have is a monolythic slab with the base plates mounted and a bunch of 6x6 timbers with all the elbow brackets mounted on them.
Anyway, Im real happy with the socket system kit so far. Im still assembling the parts. Hope to have a skeleton up in the next month or so. I will be taking pics of the whole process and will start a thread on here about it. So far, all I have is a monolythic slab with the base plates mounted and a bunch of 6x6 timbers with all the elbow brackets mounted on them.
The socket systems seems like a nice product for the DIY'er, just a couple of comments,
1. Check with your local building inspector if this system is approved.
2. Check with the manufacturer (socket systems) and your state if the engineer signing the drawings if he is registered with your state. You can usually check your state board of registration for his name and registration number.
3. It appears to me that the engineer if just signing off on the socket system components and not the overall building, so they would only be liable for their products it there was a failure. Companies have a way of placing the blame on the installer and in this case that would be you.
4. Make certain that the concrete slab can withstand the "uplifting" of the wind force and "live loads" such as snow in your area.
5. I would suggest talking to an Architect or Structural Engineer in your area to review your building plans, sometimes an 1/2 or 1 hour meeting at a cost of $ 50 - $ 120 with them might alleviate any future problems.
Good luck with your project(s).
1. Check with your local building inspector if this system is approved.
2. Check with the manufacturer (socket systems) and your state if the engineer signing the drawings if he is registered with your state. You can usually check your state board of registration for his name and registration number.
3. It appears to me that the engineer if just signing off on the socket system components and not the overall building, so they would only be liable for their products it there was a failure. Companies have a way of placing the blame on the installer and in this case that would be you.
4. Make certain that the concrete slab can withstand the "uplifting" of the wind force and "live loads" such as snow in your area.
5. I would suggest talking to an Architect or Structural Engineer in your area to review your building plans, sometimes an 1/2 or 1 hour meeting at a cost of $ 50 - $ 120 with them might alleviate any future problems.
Good luck with your project(s).
Sundowner
Well-known member
the socket system is very interesting, I'd use it on a free draining sandy soil without any organics in it. I'd never use it on clay or loam.
the original pole-in-the-ground conecpt is well proven, I don't see what the fuss is about. people have only been building barns like that for the past 1200 years
as long as you make sure the concrete-wood interface point is well protected and above the ground, you shouldn't have any problems.
the original pole-in-the-ground conecpt is well proven, I don't see what the fuss is about. people have only been building barns like that for the past 1200 years
as long as you make sure the concrete-wood interface point is well protected and above the ground, you shouldn't have any problems.