Pole barn concrete

[LS1NOVA]

I will be pouring a concrete floor in a pole barn soon with radiant heat. What are the opinions on how to do it? Around the poles or up to the poles? 2" insulation either way. It seems like the wall would pull some heat from the slab if the concrete was poured around the poles with the wall ancored to it?

 

[chickenhauler]

I'd put 2" insulation up the bottom wall girt, then pour around the poles. The 6x6 (or whatever size poles you have) won't wick enough heat out of the slab to make a difference.

 

[Wastedwagesracing]

Not sure if this is true or not. But I was told do not pour around the post. Reason being it's more likely if your slab raises in the winter it will also pull the building up along with it. I'd be interested in comments on that.

 

[LS1NOVA]

Well, Im going to install 2" XPS around the poles and up to the sill boards and pour the concrete like that. Solid anchoring for the walls then.

 

[rburke65]

That slab isn't going to pull those post up out of the ground! Did this persosn have photos or some kind of proof of this claim?

 

[69dz302z28]

Most common thing to happen, are stress cracks that can appear due to minor post movement. Building shouldn't move at all, if posts were installed at a depth beyond frost line. on concrete footers with proper post anchors.

 

[darkk]

If you have a heated floor, you should not have any swelling or lifting issues....

 

[Wastedwagesracing]

That was one guys opinion that I talked to. They guy that is going to put my building up also thought it was ****. I like to pole people and get ideas and opinions. But I also like to validate those opinions then make the best decision from several source of information. That why I'm here, and appreciate the wealth of knowledge on this site.

 

[Wastedwagesracing]

If you have a heated floor, you should not have any swelling or lifting issues....

I was just thinking ahead. To what if I would not heat it at some point. Like If I ever get out of this hell hole winter state for the winters.

 

[cyamaha2007]

Ive been told not to pour up to the posts also. He cuts the post in with a expansion seal.

 

[hemi]

I have a 32 x 72 pole barn in northern ohio with cold winters. I installed radiant heat and poured 5" concrete floor over 8"compacted gravel mix. Around the inside perimeter gravel pad was tapered down so the concrete is a foot thick around the perimeter. The concrete was poured around the 6 x 6 posts with expansion seal around the posts. 4 years later i have had no shifting or cracking in the concrete anywhere. The gravel mix was 3/4" limestone max with smaller rock down to sand size particles. The night before gravel mix was brought in it got soaked in a heavy rain. After the gravel was skid steered in and compacted the gravel was soft under foot from being wet. In two weeks it dried out and was as solid as asphalt. After the concrete was poured i watered the concrete everyday for 28 days during the curing process and looking back i would not do anything different. hemi

 

[Drinkin-N-Thinkin]

I have a 32 x 72 pole barn in northern ohio with cold winters. I installed radiant heat and poured 5" concrete floor over 8"compacted gravel mix. Around the inside perimeter gravel pad was tapered down so the concrete is a foot thick around the perimeter. The concrete was poured around the 6 x 6 posts with expansion seal around the posts. 4 years later i have had no shifting or cracking in the concrete anywhere. The gravel mix was 3/4" limestone max with smaller rock down to sand size particles. The night before gravel mix was brought in it got soaked in a heavy rain. After the gravel was skid steered in and compacted the gravel was soft under foot from being wet. In two weeks it dried out and was as solid as asphalt. After the concrete was poured i watered the concrete everyday for 28 days during the curing process and looking back i would not do anything different. hemi

I have a dirt floor in my building and want to pour a slab on grade with radiant. Assuming 2" of poly insulation on the bottom and sides of the slab, what rodent exclusion methods can be used to prevent them from digging under the grade board and through the insulation to the inside (i.e. any sheetmetal)? Even if they don't get inside due to some barrier on the inside, they could still burrow all around the sides destroying the perimeter insulation. Did anyone have this issue or am I overthinking this? Also, how did you address insulating the open edge of the slab under the over head door?

How will the weight bearing capacity be affected of a slab containing PEX tubes and insulating foam underneath? Any formulas for flex or capacity?

I'm considering to use solar panels piped directly into the slab used as a heat sync to take advantage of the low (and varying) temperature output of solar. My intention is to attempt to keep the (building) temperature above the dew point so my tools don't rust. Additional heat would be supplied by a secondary heater (probably seperate) if needed so my expecations of the solar are not for a "comfortable environment". Under this scenario, would the changing temperature of the slab due to varying solarpanel output (i.e. day/night) cause constant expansion/contraction of the slab if it is not heated to a consistant temperature (with the backup source). Would this constant temperature change cause any slab cracking or spalling?

Not directed just to hemi, anyone please comment.