Pole barn conversion

[jimfinn]

Hey ya'll, long time lurker looking for advice/tips/tricks on converting a pole barn into a shop/garage.

I've got a 20x40x16 pole barn on utility poles. I attached a picture, hopefully it worked. Located in muggy Louisiana.

My plan is to have a slab poured, then have a local contractor put up metal sheeting. I'd like a 12x12 roll up on the end, an 8x8 roll up on the side, and walk through door on the side. Also, possibly a lean to on the front or one of the sides, haven't decided yet. Water is stubbed out in case I want a utility sink, and electrical is already ran.

One question I've got, and I'm sure the contractors can answer it, but, when having the slab poured, I'm assuming I want a small ledge at the base of the slab for the paneling to **** up against and prevent water from getting in? Whats the terminology for this? Is that the correct procedure? Also, what else am I not thinking of here? What would you do in my situation? The shop will be for storing my tools, a small boat, lawn equipment, etc. Should I insulate the roof? Add Windows/vents?

 

[Shootinok]

That’s more than one question [emoji16]

There are many many ways to deal with the slab edge / bottom of siding detail. However you do it there will need to be something to fasten the bottom of the siding to.
It is a good practice to stop the siding about 4” up from the exterior grade.
One option... you could use a treated 2 X 8 attached to the outside of the posts to form the slab and leave it there for the bottom girt.
If you don’t want any wood exposed on the outside, you’ll need to form the slab to allow the bottom girt to set on.

Windows are free light and if operable, are nice for ventilation.
And, in my opinion vents definitely - somewhere.

My pole building in OK has vents in the soffits (just slotted soffit boards) and a ceiling fan. On hot summer days when I turn on the fan it pulls the really hot air down then starts to pull in cooler air from these side vents.
I have no insulation, but air movement keeps it workable in the summer.

 

[CraigStu]

I am not sure how it would work w/ the existing poles but one way to deal w/ the wall at near ground level would be to add a row or two of block to the top of the slab. That way any wood other than the poles is 8-16 inches above the ground.

 

[yeldogt]

How much land do you have ..??

Sometimes it's no more money to put up a new structure ..... my friend had an extended 2 car done (board and batten exterior) .. a company came in and built it ...like a kit. He left his utility structure there ...

 

[tfinniii]

Just make sure slab does not lock to posts.

 

[jimfinn]

How much land do you have ..??

Sometimes it's no more money to put up a new structure ..... my friend had an extended 2 car done (board and batten exterior) .. a company came in and built it ...like a kit. He left his utility structure there ...

That's actually an interesting idea I hadn't thought of, I'm on 4 acres so I have decent space.

 

[jimfinn]

Just make sure slab does not lock to posts.

Why not? Settling and cracking the concrete?

 

[jimfinn]

Being in Oklahoma, you understand the temps we get down here. No sweating issues with it being uninsulated?

 

[Shootinok]

No sweat issues, but I don’t have any temperature conditioning at all.
Just open the doors and run fans to cool.



Sent from my iPad using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[yeldogt]

That's actually an interesting idea I hadn't thought of, I'm on 4 acres so I have decent space.

My friend wanted a place to work on some projects -- Heat and AC. But, he also needed the space he currently had to "store" equipment and the other usual items out of the weather.

He was able to build a nice ...standard structure with fixed costs. With the other building untouched -- he did not have to worry about the "duel use" issues with converting the current.

He ended up with more overall space and less forward costs with heat and AC on a smaller building.