Pole barn exterior lighting

[jmziegler]

Any ideas on how to install a standard exterior light on a pole barn with metal siding? A normal J-box would cause problems with the ribs.

 

[sparky 1971]

I usually use a surface mount wall pack that doesn't need a junction box. However, that last metal sided building, the owners wanted goose neck lighting and I had to use a box. This is dependent on the inside not being finished...yet. I ran a vertical 2X6 between two of the horizontal boards, centered on the rib where the lights were to go. I ran 3/4" plywood from the top of the top horizontal board to the bottom of the bottom horizontal and over my vertical 2X6 and screwed it all together. Then I ran a 4" holesaw through the metal and all the way through the 2X6, but only let the pilot bit go into the plywood, that way, the center of the hole is marked. Then I changed holesaws to one that was just big enough for the connector (mc cable in my case) and using the pilot bit hole in the plywood, ran that holesaw through the plywood. Then it was easy, ran mc cable through the hole, into the back of an octagon box, then screwed the box to the plywood. It was kind of a pain in the ****, but turned out nice.

You could also surface mount a weatherproof light box to the metal, but make sure you put it where you screw into the framing. Another one, but I haven't tried this so I'm not sure how well it would work. Using a 4" holesaw, go through the metal and 3/4" into a framing member and chip out the wood to create a 4" X 3/4" deep recess and install a pancake box.

 

[That Guy Scott]

I machined a piece of nylon I had. I made 4 of them actually. I then had paint matched to the siding (Pic below is unpainted).

 

[Sumboodie]

I machined a piece of nylon I had. I made 4 of them actually. I then had paint matched to the siding (Pic below is unpainted).

No flashing on top?

 

[jmziegler]

I machined a piece of nylon I had. I made 4 of them actually. I then had paint matched to the siding (Pic below is unpainted).

So you just used the nylon as the box. I was thinking about doing the same out of PVC trim board & using that as the box/mounting serface. But it looks like Lowes may has a wall pack with motion sensors in stock locally.

 

[haveissues]

When I installed goosneck barn style light on my building I took some PVC board, cut it on the table saw so it matches the shape of the siding, and then used a pancake box that the lights cover would fit over. Caulked the top and sides, left the bottom open. It came out nice and didn't crush the siding.

 

[u2slow]

If a surface box fits between the ribs, that's what I'd use. Just seal the penetration for your cable/conduit and screws.

 

[mikedodge]

Some of mine are surface mount fixtures with the wires going to them. Any recessed ones are the resin/plastic boxes between the ribs and the lights have no problem sealing to them.

 

[kj_mustang]

A previous thread on the same topic.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...tdoor-lighting-to-ribbed-metal-siding.250750/

 

[jives]

As kj_ pointed out, several threads on this. However, there may be some new ideas popping up. I mounted my over-the-garage-door barn lights centered over the smaller ribs. The light was affixed to a standard round exterior junction box, which was mounted to the metal siding using a 3/8" thick rubber backer. The backer was grooved to fit over the metal siding ribs. Silicone liberally applied.

 

[That Guy Scott]

No flashing on top?

Not needed. I machined a slight taper on the top to shed water and Its sealed with a gasket and silicone. Besides, it never rains in SoCal, right?

 

[That Guy Scott]

So you just used the nylon as the box.

Yeah. I think I put a metal box on the back to secure the m/c cable though