Pole barn girt framing method

[jives]

Jives - Wow! You went above and beyond!!! Your wood panels giving me a better ideas here. How do you like it? With 2' OC do they feel weak and soft in the middles? Those panels seems like cost as much as a Sheetrock that might be it for me. Instead of Sheetrock use them. I just don't want them to be to weak in the middle...Thanks for sharing!!!

The wood panels are actually solid core sliding closet doors from a dorm. I bought 90 of them for $1 each from a local college doing renovations. Each door is 22" x 94" and weighs 60 lbs. I had to remove the hanging hardware on the top and an inset handle on one side. But the backside of the doors were unblemished, though students did tend to write some creative things. I thought this artwork added a bit of character.

Because the doors are just under 8' tall, I had to set them on the 2x4 "baseboard" to have them reach the girt sitting at 8' high. BTW, the screws cost more money than the doors. . . .

 

[SkeeterZX200]

This is how I did mine and it worked very well. I will have to see if I can find a picture with the insulation installed. I had no issues.

 

[Pressingonward]

Nice discussion of the various methods. My 70's pole barn was built with 2x6 girts on the outsides of the poles with the metal nailed straight on with no wrap or anything (typical of the time period). I want to insulate, but I'll have to figure out how to effectively dry any moisture that might get into the walls due to leaky nail washers - maybe replace all of the nails with screws to eliminate the problem.

Anyways, I'm leaning towards the giant hanging fiberglass batts and 2x4 girts on the inside of the poles 24" OC - minimal lumber usage and avoids thermal bridging of bookshelf girts. I'll have to calc out the r value of a wall with bookshelf girts vs interior girts one of these days when I get a moment to see how much of an impact the thermal bridging actually has.

 

[Pressingonward]

This is what I did several years ago for my 36'x50'x15' building. 2" x 6" girts on the outside, 2' x 4' girts on 2' center on the inside, 1.5" styro-foam board cut and fit between exterior girts, house wrap, 6" non faced batt insulation 6' wide x 15' tall hung on the interior side of the exterior girts, finished with painted 7/16" OSB plywood. The walls are solid and tight. Have cabinets hung on the interior 2" x 4" with no sag. My poles are 6.25' on center. A few hundred bucks for extra wood in poles, upgraded trusses and girt quantity goes along way in increasing strength. From an engineering standpoint, face mounted girts are much stronger than bookshelf mounted girts because the fastners are in shear, perpendicular, rather than pull via toe-nailing mounting, which also has a tendency to split the wood. Also, book shelf girts give you a smaller target for screwing the outside steel to. I built my building myself and these are my reasons/observations for what I did.

My 2-cents

I know this is an old post, but bigguns if you're still around I really like your use of the drywall lift to help hang the batts - I've filed that idea away for future reference