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Pole barn heat question

78C-10

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Hello everyone, I've been on this website for days looking at all of the different questions, comments, and ideas for heating pole barns. Here is my situation, I have a 30x40x10(at bottom of trussues) pole barn. It was finished last month. It is just a shell, no insulation, concrete, power yet.

From what I have read, everyone says if you haven't poured concrete yet to put in radiant floor heat. I would love it but am going back and forth between it and maybe a radiant tube heater. Here is the other thing about my building....I am the building owner but not the land owner. My wife and I live on her parent's farm and they are the land owners. They were generous enough to let me build a building on their land. The wife says when the farm is hers, a long ways away yet I hope, she may want to move. I don't know if I want to put all the bells and whistles into this garage/shop especially when I don't own the land. I will have electric and concrete, gas if necessary, thinking or electric water heater if in floor heat. We are in northern Illinois. I do want to insulate it and have some sort of heat out there. I will be out there quite a bit on the weekends and some weeknights. I park my classic pick up truck out there and I want that to remain dry and warm during the winter months.

Enough rambling and down to my questions about radiant floor heat. I have seen the insides of the tankless heater/boilers and all the wiring and circuit boards. Do these things last awhile? Will parts always be available for any brand heater/boiler? I just don't want to spend the money on these heater/boilers only to have to replace them every so often because a circuit board or some other part is no longer available. What kind of luck have you guys had with your systems?

The second question has to do with the concrete pour over the PEX. I have read where air pressure is applied to the tubing while the concrete is being poured so if the PEX gets cut or nicked the leak can be detected. If the tubing does get nicked or cut what are you supposed to do? There is a truck full of concrete sitting there with the concrete all around the tubing. I have read where splices are not recommended in the tubing so do you hault all concrete work and replace the whole loop? I know the chances are small of anything happening but these are the things I think of.

I do have to save here and there for all of this stuff. I will do insulation as money permits and try to do what I can myself. Concrete and electricity will be professionally done. I do have some time before concrete is put in, I have to save for that now as the building took all of my money:(.Thank you for reading all of the rambling and any comments, opinions, and suggestions are appreciated.
 
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Highbeam

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The tubing is only about 30 cents a foot. Put it in. It is a small percentage of the whole building cost. Maintaining a low level heat for freeze protection is an ideal use of this type of heat.

If you detect a leak during the pour then you repair it, you don't remove the whole loop. The repair is usually two sharkbite **** connectors and a short length of pex. Two minutes work and 10$ if you're prepared. Pex is tough though and it would take a big mistake to break it.
 

oilslick

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The tubing is cheap ,the insulation is not, nor is all the little things that will add up. I hope the farm she stands to get has some acreage! Then maybe we will see you posting one of these no budget builds!! Seriously land around me in Illinois is selling for 12000 an acre for good stuff, crazy ****. Good luck, do lots of reading on here and all of your concerns will be dealt with.
 

BadgerBoilerMN

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Minneapolis
The tubing is only about 30 cents a foot. Put it in. It is a small percentage of the whole building cost. Maintaining a low level heat for freeze protection is an ideal use of this type of heat.

If you detect a leak during the pour then you repair it, you don't remove the whole loop. The repair is usually two sharkbite **** connectors and a short length of PEX. Two minutes work and 10$ if you're prepared. Pex is tough though and it would take a big mistake to break it.


Well, almost. We install many thousand of feet of PEX every year manufactured by a half dozen manufacturers but have yet to see an installation manual specifying "sharkbite" fitting for any connection let alone a repair during the concrete pour.

Each manufacturer will have fittings and procedures for connecting their tube. You may have one on hand, but we have never used one during a pour. We also watch every pour and keep sharp objects and pin-headed people away from the tube until covered.

Everybody wants radiant floors and it is really a sin to pour a slab in a heated space without at least offering the next guy the option of perfect comfort. Put the PEX in the slab and be Radiant Floor Ready®.
 
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Highbeam

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Well, almost. We install many thousand of feet of PEX every year manufactured by a half dozen manufacturers but have yet to see an installation manual specifying "sharkbite" fitting for any connection let alone a repair during the concrete pour.

So then perhaps you can contribute by telling us what you would use instead of a sharkbite.
 

BadgerBoilerMN

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Each manufacturer will have fittings and procedures for connecting their tube.

I have never had a tube damaged and caught during a pour, but on the few we have repaired for others, we use the manufacturer's specification and wrap the repair with magic tape...kidding. Quality PVC electrical tape. No leaks yet...
 
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dandan111

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The barn isn't that big wouldn't a gas hanging heater be a lot cheaper? My vote is a nice gas hanging furnace. Closing the ceiling would be a good idea also.
 
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78C-10

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I've been doing some more research, I am thinking about a hanging radiant tube heater. Sounds like the second best next to radiant floor heat. Floor heating seems to be touchy and complicated, yeah would be nice but I just don't have that kind of upfront money. I'm actually wishing I had gone with a smaller size building(believe it or not)! It is also hard to justify all the money for 4 to 5 months of heating.
 
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