Pole barn Insulation again

[493 scamp]

I did search and there are so many opinions and options I cant decide what to do. First off I have a 32 x40 x12 DIY polebarn with no overhang and no seal between roof and side walls. I purchased 20'x100' plastic roll and planned on steel durapanel from Menards as ceiling. The trusses are spaced at 4'oc. Funds are always a problem so I wanted to do a little at a time. I will have to pay someone to do the labor because of being afraid of heights. Pricing materials today I see cellulose blown in will be about the least cost. I had wanted to do a little at a time but pricing and availability of fiberglass in a wide enough size to do in small increments isnt to be found. So I guess I will pay to have the wall openings sealed at top and plastic and metal put up. Then blow in cellulose afterwards. Since the building has no vent except for the gap between roof and sidewall metal will I need venting?
Do I need to seal the gap between roof and wall?
Do I need more venting?
Will the cellulose get wet?
Will the metal screwed to the bottom of trusses hold it?
Should I include a walkway down the middle for worker to stand on while blowing and an access hole as well?
What else am I forgetting?
Will cellulose draw rodents and birds?

Only one row of lights exist and are screwed to bottom of truss for easy removal. I plan on heating it sporadically when I need to work in the winter.
I am in West Central Illinois and was thinking anywher from r19-r38

 

[derkperk]

First off, forget the cellulose, go with fiberglass blown in.

Good airflow above the ceiling is always a good idea. Ridge or gable vents are good.

Yes. Or your blown in insulation will fall down the wall.

Condensation in the winter from poor ventilation is the only thing that will get the cellulose wet.

You will need access to the attic and a way to walk around up there. Door and a walk way.

Any insulation will make a great nest but rodents aren't attracted to it.

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[Dragfluid]

Cellulose is the most cost effective ceiling insulation, plus it stops any airflow, in case you miss sealing up any piercings. If your roof is good, no it won't get wet. But like Derk said, you need good ventilation.

 

[493 scamp]

The man at Menards said not to use cellulose because it will corrode the metal. I have read many others here used it and thats what we have at work as well. In this day and age it is hard to get the truth,it seems the fiberglass makers say cellulose will eat the steel and cellulose makers say its better than fiberglass. Since others have used it with success I will go with cellulose. Even if it ate the steel thats not a structural part of the building.
I will make an access hole 4'x3'and with sides higher than the blow in level. Can I glue fiberglass insulation to the door that covers the access or would foam board stacked and glued work better?

 

[Dragfluid]

"The man at Menards said not to use cellulose because it will corrode the metal."
OMG!!

An isle monkey strikes again!

That's the first time I've ever heard that! Since I've got it in both my ceiling and my walls, I'm doomed.

 

[derkperk]

You can definetly glue some batting to the door. I used some left over 2" foam board.
Cellulose is cheaper and has nearly the same R value as fiberglass when installed. BUT, that junk will settle over time reducing it's effectiveness. Fiberglass isn't nearly as dusty either.

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[86turbodsl]

I've heard cellulose can rot steel too, but FWIW, my dad's pole barn is cellulose right on steel and no problems. I put inner osb on my girts to keep the cellulose off my steel, but that's more so i can take panels off without using a vacuum for 10 days. Nothing cheaper than cellulose. I'd use that.

 

[dmcintosh]

I am in the process of insulating my 24x30. Decided to go with the blown fiberglass for the ceiling once it is up (hanging drywall - started yesterday and I think it was the coldest day of the year so far). My building does have gable vents and a roof ridge vent, so I installed the foam rafter blocks to ensure the insulation does not block the ventilation. These also created the block to keep the insulation from falling into the wall cavity. Eventually I'll but fiberglass batts in the walls to insulte those, but like you am working on a budget and doing a little at a time as funds permit.

 

[theoldwizard1]

... Funds are always a problem so I wanted to do a little at a time.

Then spend you money wisely ! Hire a spray foam company to seal all crack and seam. This will give you a vapor barrier to the outside and reduce air flow and moisture into you building. This is by far you best first step, even if you have to wait a year or two before continuing.

Waiting will also let you see whether not not additional ventilation.

I am a fan of dense packed cellulose. Low cost and effective. Scrim/webbing/netting must be placed on the walls ahead of time. If your posts are 8' O.C., your girts should probably be 4' O.C. in order to hold the scrim.