Pole Barn Insulation - Never Seen Question

[Ibanez540r]

So, I just read many threads about pole barn insulation. Various different buildings (metal vs wood sided/roofed) and many different approaches to framing and use of insulation. However, I did not see anyone cover a question/idea I had.. (Should this be my sign? )

First - My 24x24 garage/shop is all wood, vinyl sided, with a vaulted/cathedral ceiling. Vented soffit and ridge vent. Gabled dormer on one side.

Question - To insulate the walls, is there any reason NOT to add an additional 2x4 flat on the girt between the posts to create stud depth for use of regular "2x4 Batts" horizontally between the girts?

Due to the size and limited space of the building I would prefer to only add 1-1/2" plus drywall rather then 3-1/2" plus drywall if possible.

 

[Kaizen]

When you compress batts of insulation it drastically reduces r value. The air is what does the insulating. Like the plastic you put up in windows in winter. Not the plastic insulating just the air.
Thought about foam panels?


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[MrSurly]

Do you have the building wired? The space you’d be creating *could be* a wiring space so you’d want to install the “stud” so as to not block that usage.
The other reason simply would have to be the trade off of R13 vs R19 or better with thicker walls.
You say there’s already a ceiling... how is the ceiling insulated?


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[Firebrick43]

DON'T do it! I assume that the post will stick out from the wall? Neighbor started doing this with the idiot advice of his son in law (who also bailed after the first wall) and it was miserable to finish out those walls. In the order of 4 times as much labor compared to girts to the inside of of the wall. The other two walls we finished regularly as I refused to help if done the other way.

Not only does it look better, quicker, and better insulated done the conventional way, but the neighbor admits the "lost space" is not missed and the post sticking out on the walls done your way is a pia to deal with as far as shelves and benches.

Also wiring with Romex in a thin wall is technically against code as you can't maintain 1-1/4" clearance unless you nail plate everything.

 

[readhead]

And now one of the down sides of inexpensive pole construction. You are now framing walls inside for your finish. I would frame conventionally with 2x4 to allow for insulation and wiring.

 

[b-boy]

I added 2" foam board to the girts. The I foamed any gaps. This created an R10 insulation, plus allowed me to frame using 2x4s. They fit perfectly and lined up with the posts to allow coverage using OSB. I used R11 insulation designed for 2x4 construction. I have 4x6 laminated posts.

This process added some cost, but created a pretty airtight building with R21 walls.

 

[tonyciambrone]

If you're posts are 4x4, then yes build 2x4 walls and insulate with r13/r15. Vapor barrier depends on climate and is debated. Like the above poster (I think) I am putting R7.5 in between the girts, tyvek taped/ foamed gaps, followed by a layer of R10 foam board over the girts. Then a framed 2x4 wall, with r15 fiberglass.

 

[Ibanez540r]

When you compress batts of insulation it drastically reduces r value. The air is what does the insulating. Like the plastic you put up in windows in winter. Not the plastic insulating just the air.
Thought about foam panels?


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There would be no compression of insulation. A 2x4 girt mounted to the current 2x4 girt would essential create 4x4 girts with a standard 3-1/2" depth for 2x4 wall insulation batts.

Do you have the building wired? The space you’d be creating *could be* a wiring space so you’d want to install the “stud” so as to not block that usage.
The other reason simply would have to be the trade off of R13 vs R19 or better with thicker walls.
You say there’s already a ceiling... how is the ceiling insulated?


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The building was built in 2008 by a prior owner and is all wired. Ceiling is also bare but standard rafters so no questions on how to insulate it.

And now one of the down sides of inexpensive pole construction. You are now framing walls inside for your finish. I would frame conventionally with 2x4 to allow for insulation and wiring.

See comment above. I also would have done stick construction.

 

[UTCiv]

You will only get 3" out of face laid 2x4's.

I would bookshelf 2x6's or 2x8's and make them flush with the face of the columns and take advantage of the extra depth for more R. The flush face will make it easier to finish the wall provided you have 8'c/c columns.

 

[Kaizen]

There would be no compression of insulation. A 2x4 girt mounted to the current 2x4 girt:

Makes more sense now. Thought you were adding more insulation. No problems as long as finish material falls on them.



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[Diesel Dan]

If your posts are 8' on center how about Johns Manville PEBS blanket?
They offer R19 in 86.5" wide rolls.
https://www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/g...iles/BI Toolbox/JM-MBI-Product-Sell-Sheet.pdf

 

[Ibanez540r]

You will only get 3" out of face laid 2x4's.

Good Catch..

 

[DC73]

When you compress batts of insulation it drastically reduces r value.

Minor compression is no big deal. Even major compression can make sense at times. For example, a friend insulating an outbuilding found R19 fiberglass on sale for half price of standard R13. R19 compressed into a 2x4 stud bay gives you R13, so he ended up with the same R value for less money.

DC