question. just had this 30x24 pole barn built. it's now time for me to insulate, and after a couple hours of reading I'm still not sure which way to go with it. spray foam is not in the budget. was thinking the faced post frame insulation that is available from menards, but I'm not sure if that's right, and if it is what thickness should it be? I could do 4" or 6". should I have an air gap between the insulation and bubble wrap stuff that's under the metal siding? or should insulation be touching it? any direction would be appreciated, I'm ready to do whatever I gotta do.
pole barn insulation
- Thread starter jonkreuz
- Start date
Farmall450
Well-known member
Isn't the bubble stuff some form of insulation/vapor barrier? I wish we'd gotten that, but the barn builder (Morton) said birds/etc would destroy it unless finished.
I believe it is there because the metal will sweat, and so if that bubble wrap isn't there then the insulation would get wet, and then of course moldy
Firebrick43
Well-known member
The makers of bubble wrap make outrageous claims about its insulation value but it does function as an adequate condensation blanket. Its only needed if the building or roof is uninsulated. If the building is fully insulated then the cold air inside the building can NOT form convection air currents against the warm siding and condensate form. In addition air channels that are the ribs in R panel allows the wall to breathe if any minimal amounts of moisture is present.
I always suggest full depth insulation with a wide blanket that fits post to post in pole barns. 6" insulation even if compressed slightly has no issues touching the bubble insulation. Wide blankets avoid thermal bridging and gaps that plague building stud wall between the post.
For additional performance I personally slid XPS 1.5" foam between the outside purlins and was some what easy to do but may be an issue with the bubble already installed getting it behind the post but could still be put from post to post. leave a small gap and foam to the purlin. Its much cheaper than spray foam and seals just as well.
I always suggest full depth insulation with a wide blanket that fits post to post in pole barns. 6" insulation even if compressed slightly has no issues touching the bubble insulation. Wide blankets avoid thermal bridging and gaps that plague building stud wall between the post.
For additional performance I personally slid XPS 1.5" foam between the outside purlins and was some what easy to do but may be an issue with the bubble already installed getting it behind the post but could still be put from post to post. leave a small gap and foam to the purlin. Its much cheaper than spray foam and seals just as well.
billconner
Well-known member
It would sweat because of the interior moister air and i
the surface is below the dew point. I'd be concerned that it will create a second vapor barrier and trap moisture in the insulated wall.
Appreciate spray foam expense. I think the next best answer is to slip 1 1/2" rigid foam between gifts, and seal it with foam in a can. Maybe cut rigid undersize so the tube on the spray can just fits in gap. This should keep the surface of the foam above the dew point at least to zone 5 if not 6. Then come back with fibreglass or rockwool and a very good vapor barrier. If you use the vinyl faced batt's, seal seams and any punctures with tape. I like the Zip tape currently but there are other seam sealer tapes.
If you're not going to do foam, but just vinyl faced batt's, were it mine, I'd remove the bubble stuff. I think it will only cause moisture problems in heating climates.
the surface is below the dew point. I'd be concerned that it will create a second vapor barrier and trap moisture in the insulated wall.
Appreciate spray foam expense. I think the next best answer is to slip 1 1/2" rigid foam between gifts, and seal it with foam in a can. Maybe cut rigid undersize so the tube on the spray can just fits in gap. This should keep the surface of the foam above the dew point at least to zone 5 if not 6. Then come back with fibreglass or rockwool and a very good vapor barrier. If you use the vinyl faced batt's, seal seams and any punctures with tape. I like the Zip tape currently but there are other seam sealer tapes.
If you're not going to do foam, but just vinyl faced batt's, were it mine, I'd remove the bubble stuff. I think it will only cause moisture problems in heating climates.
billconner
Well-known member
Oh look at that - firebrick and I posting almost the same thing at same time.
Jakemedic
Well-known member
Get 8’ wide rolls of unlaced insulation. Add a vapor barrier and cover. That is what I did and it produced an amazingly tight shop.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Is your insulation laced with fentanyl like everything else seems to be these days?
Jakemedic
Well-known member
Ahhhh negative. It is made in the USA, not imported lolIs your insulation laced with fentanyl like everything else seems to be these days?
thank you sir, I appreciate the input. so since that bubble wrap I have already serves the purpose of a vapor barrier, would you go with faceless insulation then? the stuff without the vinyl on it
Firebrick43
Well-known member
thank you sir, I appreciate the input. so since that bubble wrap I have already serves the purpose of a vapor barrier, would you go with faceless insulation then? the stuff without the vinyl on it
To be honest I would go with faceless insulation every time. I am not a fan of leaving insulation exposed and on top of that wouldn’t want to make multiple vapor barriers
No ideal to be in the outside of the wall but if your inside liner can breathe?
To be honest I would go with faceless insulation every time. I am not a fan of leaving insulation exposed and on top of that wouldn’t want to make multiple vapor barriers
No ideal to be in the outside of the wall but if your inside liner can breathe?
I'm at the same stage of building, I house wrapped the girts before metal sheeting then put 1.5in foam board between the girts. I was about to special order the Menards post frame insulation until I did the math and realized their john Mansfield mineral wool R23 is cheaper per sq ft with bulk discount.
Spray foam is expensive but tell you what it holds th building together like glue over time you will not get that wind blowing the steel around And vibrating the screws loose . 
Something I didn’t think of at the time. What i should have done is sprayed it with fire retardant paint all white.
Something I didn’t think of at the time. What i should have done is sprayed it with fire retardant paint all white.I'm having a hard time finding 8-ft wide batt insulation. Could you tell me where you purchased yours?
Jakemedic
Well-known member
Hello! This is the company whose insulation I used. https://www.ancoproducts.com/post-frame-insulation
i reached out to them to ask about local vendor who handled their product. It was a Sunday afternoon, and by supper time, on Sunday, I had the info. Has to drive 40 miles to get it, but so worth it. Highly recommend this product. No itching either, and shhhh I cut it with my wife’s electric knife. Good luck, hope you find a local vendor!
PS: Welcome to the forum
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Chris1017
Member
How did you do your ceiling if you don't mind me asking?Hello! This is the company whose insulation I used. https://www.ancoproducts.com/post-frame-insulation
i reached out to them to ask about local vendor who handled their product. It was a Sunday afternoon, and by supper time, on Sunday, I had the info. Has to drive 40 miles to get it, but so worth it. Highly recommend this product. No itching either, and shhhh I cut it with my wife’s electric knife. Good luck, hope you find a local vendor!
PS: Welcome to the forum
Chris
Jakemedic
Well-known member
I blew it in, or my son in law did. I’m too darn old to get up in the rafters. Got R42 blown in, love it!