Pole barn interior stud blocking questions.

[Snip]

Looking for thoughts for blocking between the studs in my pole barn style shop. 66x40 with 14' walls with 2x4 studs 24" oc (barn posts are 6x6, 8' oc). Walls will be insulated, R-19 kraft faced and drywalled. Other than maybe some shelving for lighter stuff they will be non load bearing. Would you just block between them at about 1/2 way up or alternate at 4' and 8' to give a little more support at the drywall seams? Another option, only block at the 4' level as not much would be happening at 8" and above. I would like to minimize the breaks in the insulation but still have a good wall. TIA

 

[Firebrick43]

Girts on the outside of the post will give you “a good wall” without the amount of gaps in the insulation. It will allow you to use an 8’wide blanket in each bay with minimum of gaps and thermal bridging.

Use construction screws(not drywall) to place the interior girts to the face of the post and specific areas where you want to stiffen for the possibility of shelves glue and screw a 2x4 to the backside to make a T or
|— It will compress the insulation in that one spot a little bit still be better than the insulation of a stud wall.

If you want to hang a bigger cantilevered shelf to store engine blocks then do a full width bookshelf girt glued and screwed to the inside and outside face girts to make a sideways I beam. There will be one seam in the insulation instead of dozens in a stud wall and be less lumber.

The above is to handle the cantilevered pulling forces of a shelf.

The vertical load is handled by whatever you cover the wall with, ie liner panel, drywall or osb.

 

[Snip]

Early on I had considered going the "blanket route" as it would be quicker and maybe a bit easier and less itchy to install, but due to a almost for nothing deal on the 24" wide insulation I have studded the walls vertically to make use of it. Thank you for the input though.

 

[Professor Fate]

R19 requires a 5 1/2" space to be effective.

 

[Snip]

Yes, 2x4 wall studs are to the front edge of the 6x6 posts giving me the 5.5" for the insulation. Hopefully "fanning" out slightly behind the 2x4 into the air gap. 2x4's were used for 2 reasons, first being cost over a 2x6 and second to reduce thermal conductivity between the studs and the outside girts

 

[3rdgendslmech]

I used OSB on my walls, so a little different. I used a pressure treated 2x6 for the floor plate and framed out using 2x4 16" O/C and nailed them flush with the inside edge of the floor plate. Insulated and covered with 7/16 osb. R19 expands to about 5.5 inches so that got me to the wall girts with out the insulation touching the metal.