To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Pole Barn Kit or buy own materials?

locomike

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2007
Messages
149
I was told recently that the pole barn kits are over priced and that you would build it cheaper by purchasing the materials seperately? Said that they figure if you need to buy a kit you really don't know what your doing and can overcharge you for putting the kit and plan together for you? How true is this? Thx.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
L

locomike

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2007
Messages
149
I have been thinking about getting a kit from Menard's. They are opening a new store not too far from me. Pretty confident I can build it myself. Only thing I plan on hiring out is the excavating, concrete and running the sub panel to the building. I will build it and wire it myself. Looking at kits at around $5000 and hope I can keep it all under $10k as opposed to someone coming in with a kit and erecting it for close to $10k. Plus I got a new framing gun coming i'm dying to try out LOL. Any thoughts?
 

Speargun

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 10, 2008
Messages
50
Location
Silver Springs, FL
Figure out what you need to build your own.
Check with a local building supply for prices.
Add another thousand or so for all of the stuff you forgot in your original estimate. :D

Right now lumber is CHEAP!!! From what I hear, it's expected to stay that way for the next 6 months or so. I think you will save quite a bit of money by building it yourself.
 

kbs2244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
A kit should contain all the little, often forgotten, stuff.
So if you do go the DIY route be sure to get a detailed list of everything you need along with detailed drawings showing some of the critical framing joints.
You can save money, but the flip side is time.
You have to do over the planing the kit guys have already done.
 

Northstar9126

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 17, 2006
Messages
565
Location
Northwest corner Wisconsin
If you have a Menards near you, go there, tell them what you want to build and they will print a list of what you need. The prices on the list will be for whatever the price of the item is at the moment, meaning that if it is on sale you will get the sale price, if not you will get the regular price. They don't cut you any deal for buying the package. Take the list with you and call around to see if you can do better pricewise on anything on the list, if you can, buy the item elsewhere and have Menards delete the item from their list.
 
OP
L

locomike

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2007
Messages
149
Yeah I know pretty much how to do it but will definitel need a set of plans and a guide to follow so I think I will just go with a kit. I don't feel like messing with fascia and soffit so I am gonna go with no overhang and will also save a little money also. I was looking at Menards plans and they go there own system for building. On the roof purlins it looks as if they lay the 2x4's vertical instead of flat. I do like how they say to notch the posts and the truss rests on the post as you secure it. I have never done any roof/truss work but don't see why it should be any problem with a helper.
I mentioned I am getting a framing gun. Do I have to use the 4 1/2" ring shanks that come with the kit or could I use some 3 1/2" galvanized ring shanks in the gun? Thx.
 
OP
L

locomike

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2007
Messages
149
From what I have read before Menard's seems like a pretty reputable business. We are just getting one near us. Never heard of them before I read other's talking about them on the web. Price's seem pretty reasonable.
 

carcruse

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2007
Messages
218
Location
SE Michigan
If there is a Certer lumber nearby, check thier prices. They had the cheapest package prices when I did my first one. for the second one, what I wanted didn't fit any of their packages so I bought thing individually. I got three quotes for each part (lumber, windows, doors, siding, etc.) then went with the lowest quote. Ended up buying things from three different lumber yards.
 

must8657

Banned
Joined
Jan 17, 2007
Messages
63
Location
bethalto, il
we don't have a menards in my area (illinois side next to st. louis). i do go to Springfield illinois once a month for guard duty and they have a super menards. i love that store. i have even driven there to get things for big projects instead of going to lowes or hd. lowes and hd are 20mins away and menards is 90mins. so that should tell you what i think of them.
jason
 

Deltarat

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2006
Messages
341
I priced all the materials for mine and a company would come and build it for $500 more than I could buy the materials for. The difference was in the concrete. They would do the concrete for $2.00 a square foot cheaper than I could find anywhere. With it 103* this summer, needless to say I let them do it and hand me the key.
 

kesselect

Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2009
Messages
9
Location
Willamette Valley
Just about any handy person can build a pole barn. The style of building was first used during the Roman Empire. If you know how to do take-offs and material counts, I would say go for it and get your own materials.

Most of us aren't experienced enough to do the take-offs which means countless trips to the building supply store to get one more 2x6 or some other obscure part to the building. More headache and gas use than its worth. If you have a reputable company that can provide a complete kit they will ship you everything that you need to your site and include drawings and engineering if you need it. If they are really good they will take a call or two to answer questions during your build. If you don't want to build it they will have a crew to build it for you.

We recently had a good snow in the Willamette Valley and our company took more that 40 calls for buildings that failed. All of the buildings were agricultural buildings built on the cheap. Now they get to build them again. None of my companies buildings has come down in the 28 years of providing kits. There are many good reasons why the extra dollars for a complete kit might save you a lot of dollars down the road.

steve.
 
OP
L

locomike

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2007
Messages
149
I found Hansen Pole Buildings has a tech line if you need help. I'm getting a few quotes.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

kesselect

Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2009
Messages
9
Location
Willamette Valley
Toys are always fun to have. If you buy a nail gun to build your pole barn/garage, make sure you check on the nails needed to resist corossion in the pressure treated wood. Your gun will probably need to drive a hot dipped galvanized nail at least a 16 penny and maybe even a 20 penny nail. That translates to a honkin nail gun!!

steve.
 
OP
L

locomike

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2007
Messages
149
It is a DeWalt 51845. It will shoot a 3.5" nail. I did find some electro galvanized for it. Wouldn't that work out just fine? Are the large nails used pretty much on the whole building? Or are like 10d's used for the purlins and wall girts?
 

kesselect

Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2009
Messages
9
Location
Willamette Valley
Our company uses 20s hot dipped through the entire framing. I think that there are only two guns made for that size. Our crews are animals and they use hammers. Ow.... Before you get a gun I would decide it you are going to buy a kit or do your own material list. The kit will come with a particular size of nail and you can buy your gun accordingly. If you do your own take-offs then the size of the nails and gun are up to you.

steve.
 

kbs2244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
3.5 isn't enough length.
Your trusses are going to be 2.5 thick.
So that leaves you only 1 inch into the post.
You need at least 2 inches.
Get one of those 20 inch, 20 oz, steel handle "framing" hammers.
(And some Ben Gey)
 
OP
L

locomike

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2007
Messages
149
LOL, I already have the gun bought and on the way. LOL, I don't have any Bey Gay though. 3 1/2" would be plenty for the general framing no? What exactly do you mean by take-offs?
 

tbob

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 9, 2005
Messages
78
Location
KCMO
Buy an air Palm Nailer. Lighter than a framing gun and easier on the old bones than a 20oz hammer. I love mine! Terry
 

rcleaver

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 9, 2008
Messages
357
Location
Fairfax Station VA
I've thought about this a lot and I still haven't decided, but I'm leaning toward stick built. If you want to heat and plumb and wire the building, I think stick built is easier. I don't see the price advantage of a pole building either, but that depends on how you build it (pole, girt, rafter and purlin spacing vs. stud and truss spacing for example).

Personally I wouldn't trust hot dipped galvanized fasteners, based on some things I've read but it depends on your location. I would prefer stainless fasteners. Also, I think I would use screws instead of nails and hurricane straps.

There's no solution that fits everyone -- or else we would have only one. :)
 
OP
L

locomike

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2007
Messages
149
Noone uses stainless in my area. All galvanized or hot dipped. I did find some 3 1/2" hot dipped ring shank that will work for my gun. I won't have any water or plumbing in it, just a space heater for the cold winter days.
 

kesselect

Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2009
Messages
9
Location
Willamette Valley
Oddly, post frame construction on the east coast is not the same as on the west coast. Post/truss spacing is different. We can usually provide a kit building for less that $10 a sq. ft. depending on options, with labor somewhere around $3. Slab runs a little over $3 a square foot. The most expensive that I have been involved with was a horse barn at a little over $27 a square foot plus some finish work that the customer added afterward. At that price it won a national NFBA award. I am not sure how post frame prices out with the east coast style. Here a stick built garage shell starts about $50 a sq.ft. with footing and floor. Either way the buildings can be insulated and dry walled with plumbing heating and electrical on top of those prices. I have a customer prepping his building right now for heating in the concrete slab.

The hot dipped nails are per engineers and code. With almost three decades of building we have not had any problems with them as fasteners.

steve.
 

rbivens

New member
Joined
Aug 22, 2011
Messages
1
I found Hansen Pole Buildings has a tech line if you need help. I'm getting a few quotes.

I recently purchased from Hansen and I'm not happy with their service. Material delivery has been a nightmare for me. The delivery of the barn doors were weeks overdue, and when they arrived they were missing parts. I still haven't received all the parts, and my builder has moved on to new jobs as my barn stands unfinished. If I were to do this barn over again, I would just order all the lumber and parts myself and save myself the money that Hansen charged!

Buyer beware!
 

DIRTY DEEDS

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 6, 2010
Messages
45
I did tons of research before i purchased mine. and found the kit to be cheaper over all compared to buying everything individually. I purchased from a reputable barn builder here in Okla. that delivered on time with quality components and didnt miss a thing. even had some stuff left over ( they said they would send more than I need). not a thing was missed, even colored screws. and came with a DVD to show assy. I looked at kits from Hardware stores etc. and found them to not be best choice. check with local barn builders that design and build their own kits. they usually have better service after the sale..
 

RPH

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2006
Messages
4,190
Location
Michigan Thumb
Better check code on the overhangs, 1 foot mandatory all the way around in my area. That surprised me. Also stamped truss drawing. DIY polebarns out of Ohio sold me my kit. Well worth the cost, excellent materials, even inspector remarked on the quality.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom