Pole Barn Leaks and Advice

[Leaky88]

Hi,
I have 40x60x14 Pole Barn that has 5/6 leaks in the roof.
Best I can tell, it was built in 2006, though that disputable since the
siding was put up with Ring Shank Nails which I'm told has not been practiced in years. It came with my place, bought in 2009.
The roof does have 1-3/4" gasketed 1/4" hex-drive screws in it. My thoughts were to replace the existing screws on the entire panel, with 3" of same diameter/type and use this "Thru-the-Roof" sealant.
I have contacted 2 companies, requesting work/quotes and neither has graced my door. One claims COVID-19, the other just evaporated, so I need to do it myself.
I have no problem with heights, or standing on a ladder, or a fixed rung, and though I'm not a fan of it, I've been on some asphalt shingled roofs, but no metal roofs. I have not even seen one of these Pole Barns, erected, so I have some safety questions.
Will these panels support my 185#?
Is there certain area I must stay close to?
Any other advice on the fixing the leaks?
Any Feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Leaky

 

[Augus7us]

I had something similar in my new to me 30x40. It was also built around the same time as yours.

I had one guy come out and say it looked like the panel was installed wrong and tried to fix it with some crusty old caulk he found in the back of his truck. I got my money back when water continued to infiltrate...

Had similar problems you have with getting someone out. Swore I would never get a metal roof because of it. Eventually gave up on roofers and started calling pole barn builders. Got the number of a guy and his sons that built pole barns. Guy came out, said he could fix it all and install my 10" chimney.

My issue with the leak was the panels were never installed correctly in that section of my roof. My guy told me the fix was easy and did not require caulk... He walked my entire roof, replaced or caulked all the screws, fixed my fascia issues, installed new support on my gable ends and installed my chimney for 900$ and that included some boards and chimney parts and I didn't have to get on that roof. Win for me!

 

[bradpac]

The structure under that roof looks plenty to support your 185#. If the screws are the culprit, the recommended solution is a larger diameter screw. I wouldn't go with a 3" screw as it will have more chance to just split the wood. Typically the original screws are #9 or #10. Around here the sealing washer will dry up and fail before the screw really wallows out due to expansion/contraction of the metal and wood. If they're not too loose I've seen guys replace with #12s, but a lot will also use a #14. You can get a zinc long life head that encapsulates the gasket and prevents over-torquing and splitting the gasket if you want it to last a little longer. Find a metal building supplier in the area and they can fix you up.

If the leaks are more around the edges, especially if it happens with wind driven rain you may want to look at the closure gaskets that go under the panels at the eaves and on top under the ridge. They are usually just a foam rubber that will also dry out and fail over time.

 

[472scout]

I would pull the insulation in those spots and run water over the roof so you know for sure exactly where the leaks are. Invest in a safety harness and have at it.

 

[fourbyford]

I repaired the roof on my garage this past spring. Similar situation... I had leaks in 6 places. I went through and used my Milwaukee cordless impact driver to check/re-torque every screw. I think i may have added a dozen or so additional screws and replaced a couple dozen that were spinning in "stripped" holes. I replaced the screws that I removed with ones that were about 3/4" longer than the original ones. I would agree with the above... probably not a good idea to use 3" screws. Anyways, after I got all the screws tightened, all leaks were gone.

I assume you're using the "Pro Rib" metal (or whatever it may be called in your neck of the woods)... if so, I think the only way to install that incorrectly would be to overlap the "wrong way". My panels have what are called (IIRC) anti-siphon ribs on one edge of the panel. The overlap rib on the next sheet should cover this rib. Mine appear to be working with no sealant or foam strips.

As far as the strength of the roof, I weigh 210... I mostly made sure I was walking directly on the purlins but there were a few times I missed. No problems.

My roof is a 3/12 pitch... absolutely no problems with being up there. Your roof looks like it may be a 4 pitch? Still shouldn't be a problem to walk it... just make sure you're wearing some sort of "grippy" soled shoes.

I did somewhere around 1,000 sq/ft... give or take... took me about 3 hours. Unfortunately, my knees and back were killing me for 3 days after the festivities... lol

Good luck with your roof!

...D

 

[Marctrees]

NO personal experience -

https://www.jakesales.com/12x2-Metal-Roofing-Screw-Galvanized-p/12-2-galvanized-regrip.htm

Marc