I'm getting ready to install some metal panels vertically with J trim up top and Rat guard at the bottom. Is it best to screw down each panel as I go or put them all up at once with maybe one screw at the bottom so a chalk line can be snapped on each wall girt to make sure the screws are perfectly in line?
Pole Barn Metal Siding Install Tips
- Thread starter jdeshong
- Start date
its common to drill through the stack so all your nails or screw align because they are very visible w/ the rubber washer. To save time my crews would set the sheets just w/ a couple nails in the top and bottom then run stings to nail off at the girts. Both work fine
readhead
Well-known member
Drill the stack. I would screw as you go in case you need to shrink or stretch a sheet to stay plumb.
rburke65
Well-known member
When the crew did mine the drilled the stack. So.....when I did the metal ceiling, we did the same thing. Came out nice.
alwaysFlOoReD
Well-known member
I drilled the stack on a friends shop for the inside. The framers used 2x for the girts between the 4' OC poles. In a few cases the girts weren't exactly measured correct while being installed and some screws didn't hit anything.
Make sure you measure before drilling.
Make sure you measure before drilling.
Thanks, drilling the stack it is. At least I have quite a bit of room for error with flat 2x6 wall girts. Glad I didn't try that with the roof where it started to run off and I had to stair step it. Probably would have missed most of the purlins. Anyone care to explain how to shrink or stretch a metal panel? Is that the same thing as stair stepping?
readhead
Well-known member
If you start square you should not have any stair stepping but that isn't always reality. Ideally you should use some kind of reference at the bottom such as a string or piece of trim. If you place the sheet flush with the last sheet and the other side is above or below the reference line you need to shrink or stretch the sheet. We usually do it at the top but it will work at either end.
Drop the next sheet. Screw next to the lap to hold the sheet in place. Let's say that the other side is 1/8 below the line. Hump the top of the sheet up until the sheet is even with the line. Screw down the bottom of the sheet and work up the sheet pushing it down flat until you get to the top. If it isn't a lot we will screw down the top and work the rest of the sheet.
The convolutions in the sheet that make it stiff also allow it to expand and contract. you can stretch or shrink all of the bends in the sheet. No stair stepping allowed. Dazzle all your friends with nice straight eaves.
Drop the next sheet. Screw next to the lap to hold the sheet in place. Let's say that the other side is 1/8 below the line. Hump the top of the sheet up until the sheet is even with the line. Screw down the bottom of the sheet and work up the sheet pushing it down flat until you get to the top. If it isn't a lot we will screw down the top and work the rest of the sheet.
The convolutions in the sheet that make it stiff also allow it to expand and contract. you can stretch or shrink all of the bends in the sheet. No stair stepping allowed. Dazzle all your friends with nice straight eaves.
lakeroadster
Well-known member
I had the "Mr. Don't" crew put up my building.. so I got to see them do the steel like 3 times ;-)
What I learned:
If you drill the stack:
Be really careful when removing each piece of steel from the stack. The bur that the drilling process makes on each hole is perfect for scratching the paint on the panels if you slide the panels across each other.
In general, always lift each panel off the stack, never slide them.
Also.. some of the panel screws are self drilling and have a drill bit type tip to them. They like to wander. Other screws have a sharp point, they tend to stay in place during drilling.
Hope that helps.
What I learned:
If you drill the stack:
Be really careful when removing each piece of steel from the stack. The bur that the drilling process makes on each hole is perfect for scratching the paint on the panels if you slide the panels across each other.
In general, always lift each panel off the stack, never slide them.
Also.. some of the panel screws are self drilling and have a drill bit type tip to them. They like to wander. Other screws have a sharp point, they tend to stay in place during drilling.
Hope that helps.
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Got done with one side and drilling the stack turned out great. Also made putting in the screws much faster & easier. I only broke about 10 drill bits. Guess I need some good quality ones. I was drilling through 14 sheets. I put up the siding with only the base trim installed, then installed j-trim up top once panels were in place. It was a pain trying to slide panel in the j-trim by myself so I did that last.View media item 82332
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dave_dj1
Well-known member
Just a FYI as far as drilling the stack, there is some debate as to whether it's a good idea or not. I think for the side walls you will be fine but for roofs, the screw actually pulls the metal up into the gasket creating a little point so as not to leak. I suppose if you use a small enough drill bit you should be fine.
dave_dj1
Well-known member
Nice looking building, where did you get the rafters?
I bought them from Jordan Truss up in North Florida and had them shipped to me.
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I know you're drilling but referencing the chalk line, you do the same with a string stretched across and just place your screws as you go. No need to wipe the chalk off or let the rain wash it off.
Is it acceptable to overlap the siding vertically to get the length you need? I have several pieces left over to start closing in the gable end but would have to lap them 4-5ft at the top to get proper length. Im thinking of doing it in the back where it would be less visible.
lakeroadster
Well-known member
As long as there is a girt behind the siding at the overlap it can be done. The issue is it's not water tight, or air tight. It will be pretty obvious.