Looking to remove tin off of a pole building that was nailed on. Not wanting to damage the tin. Just need to remove to replace windows and walk through door. How well does the present nail remover from Amazon work. Looks like a knipper with a slide hammer
Pole barn nail remover
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zkdiesel
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We would usually use a wonder bar and if didn’t come nicely then they got grinder Had a set of nippers but that was hit and miss
To get a decent answer give us a picture of what your dealing with. Ribbed metal or with a flat surface. Nailed on the peak or in the valley? Link to the nail puller your looking at because there a few different ones available. I see to many variables in your question that have not been defined.
lg
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TurnipTruck
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I had good luck pulling forty pounds of spiral roofing nails using a split flange adapter on my cheap slide hammer. It did take me a whole summer to do each side of the roof, but my forearms looked like Popeye’s when I was done.
gizardlizard
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I went thru this once before. Never again. I was being cheap and wanting to save the tin. The nails were ring shanks and a ***** to remove. I did the slide hammer thing and it took me two full days.
Burt Shaver
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As mentioned pictures will help, I would try a nail puller cats paw. Bring a piece of 1/4 or 3/8 plywood, just a 3x3 inch piece and a couple other pieces of various sizes of wood in case you need a fulcrum for a hammer. Try different methods and see what works best, don’t just stick to the first method you try
NWOhioChevyGuy
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Jumping in as I plan to save the existing metal for liner panel on my project.
I have bought a couple plier type cutters to try, with out success yet.
I am leaning towards cutting the nail heads off with a grinder and dealing with the ring shank nail separately after metal is removed.
I have bought a couple plier type cutters to try, with out success yet.
I am leaning towards cutting the nail heads off with a grinder and dealing with the ring shank nail separately after metal is removed.
Burt Shaver
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If you can grind the heads of the nails off with a grinder without damaging the sheet metal I would think you should be able to get a cats paw nail puller under the head of the screw? The only roots I’ve seen that use nails to hold down sheet metal are old roofs and the nails usually aren’t holding that great anyways. Have some scrap pieces of wood available to put between the cats paw or hammer and the sheet metal so you can pull without damage.
NWOhioChevyGuy
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I am only looking to save the wall metal, the roof I don't believe is worth saving.
The metal I am removing is not profiled like todays barn metal, it has alternating "flats".
A piece of sheet steel (that fits into the flat) and a cats claw may do the trick.
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Burt Shaver
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That’s a nice looking building, good steel. If the interior hasn’t been finished I would be tempted to take a piece of plywood that will fit between the wall studs, say a piece 15” wide by 2 or 3’, lay it up against the sheet metal from inside the building and give it a few bonks with a small sledge. Not to take the metal completely off or anything but enough to maybe for e them nails out an 1/8” or something.I am only looking to save the wall metal, the roof I don't believe is not worth saving.
The metal I am removing is not profiled like todays barn metal, it has alternating "flats".
A piece of sheet steel (that fits into the flat) and a cats claw may do the trick.
NWOhioChevyGuy
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I believe the OP is referencing a tool like this, interesting idea would save a TON of time if it works.
yhprum
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So when removing aircraft rivets, you drill in the center of the rivet head with a drill the same diameter of the rivet until the head pops off or yuu can stick a punch in the drilled hole and snap it off. In theory this could work for you. They actually have a tool you put on a drill that speeds up this process.
It would be quicker to grind the heads off. Between the flat head and being solid it's a lot more work to drill then rivets are.
Burt Shaver
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I’ve taken a fair bit of metal off, you just get find the right combo of puller, preferably one with a thin claw to get it started and then a 2x4 on the flat and pull the nail out. Your going to damage the metal more with a grinder and as for drilling the heads off that’s just ridiculous talk
captaindiode
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I've been eyeing that one. Have you used it ?
I might be tempted to grind some slots in the jaws of vice grips so you can clamp under the nail head and crush the lead washer . use a slide hammer on the vice grips to pull the nails . or center punch the nail head and drill the head off.
captaindiode
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Not that specific one, but that style has been around for years and works well to pull nails with destroying the wood. I have never tried steel, but I think it would be worth a shot. You don't have to pry against the surface.
Hammer the bent end of a flat pry bar under it and put a chunk of plywood between the ribs to pry on. The washer is soft it should push through it pretty easily and the plywood will stop the siding from being damaged. Get a bar with the bend end long enough to stay away from the rib.
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With those you do pry against the surface, that's how they work. The slide part is to hammer the jaw into the wood the nail head is hammered in flush to.
Recoveryman
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I have had one for years and it's a good tool, but not what the OP needs. You use it by driving the jaws down into the wood just outside the nail head. It works great for pulling spikes out of rough boards. It will bring the most dificult big spike nail out screaming, but it does leave a mark in the wood. Great for taking down an old barn. Around here, they are called spike pullers.
Recoveryman
With the slide hammer puller, beware of where the slide hammer part stops against the raised collar in the collapsed position. It'll give you a really dandy blood blister on the heel of your hand if your hand slips back at the wrong time.
Pen & Wrench
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I suppose it would be too slow but if you could get behind the sheeting with an oscillating multi tool with a good blade and cut the nail off behind the sheeting, it would probably be fairly easy on the sheeting.
Burt Shaver
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It sure will, I have a moisture meter that has a slide hammer in it. Ouch
Burt Shaver
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I really think these nails can be pulled out the good old fashioned way with a hammer or a flat bar or a nail puller, any of these tools with a slim claw will push right through that washer. It may look like there’s no room but the washer will squish out of the way.
jack stand
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They rely on the short lever to put the squeeze of the nail head. It might work with a 1" scrap board on the "flats" to pry against. The same goes for a just right sized flat or crow bar.
Afak the "slide hammer" action of the above nail puller is to drive the fixed claw into the wood at the nail head and not to pull the nail.
If you pry against the rib you'll dent it.
Do these nails don't protrude through the board by any chance?
They rely on the short lever to put the squeeze of the nail head. It might work with a 1" scrap board on the "flats" to pry against. The same goes for a just right sized flat or crow bar.
Afak the "slide hammer" action of the above nail puller is to drive the fixed claw into the wood at the nail head and not to pull the nail.
If you pry against the rib you'll dent it.
Do these nails don't protrude through the board by any chance?
Blue one on right, its the thinnest claw and should be able to be hammered into the washer then use a scrap of wood against the flat part of the siding to pry on.
CraigStu
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I can see that the slide action is meant to hammer into the wood but...once you have the nail head gripped can't it be used to pull the nail? It would be fantastic to not have to push against the sheet metal for leverage.
NWOhioChevyGuy
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The only way those "grip" the nail head is by levering the tool off the surface.
CraigStu
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Oh ****. Maybe back to cobblers idea of vice grips and slide hammer. I was surprised by the size of the hail head. Seems it 'might' be thick enough to be grabbed w/o having to pry under it.
Uncle murph
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Spend a few minutes milling a piece of oak to lay in tight near the nails and pull them with a flatbar.
CraigStu
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I have a bunch of visegrips like most of us I guess. Some have just the grooves in the jaws so the outer 1/8" beyond the last groove is simply flat and smooth. Others have a nicely done serrated or crosshatched area there. These are the pair I'd grab for these nails.
nadogail
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I have a pair of ViseGrips that i found in an attic of a commercial building, the adjusting screw was replaced by an Eye Bolt. They have been very handy when needing to pull or lift something.
The HVAC tech who left them behind told me about them but I don't know how to locate him to return them,
The HVAC tech who left them behind told me about them but I don't know how to locate him to return them,
brownsmustang
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Used to build pole barn. Only way we found to keep damage to a minimum was horseshoe nippers. Cut the heads off and drive the remaining part in once metal is removed.