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Pole barn on slope, what fill material?

Flexia

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Joined
Mar 8, 2013
Messages
215
Location
Akron/Canton Ohio
I'm planning my garage out now and will need about 12" of fill in the back. I plan to put the poles up and then fill the inside of the building. What kind of fill do you guys recommend?

A little more info on the building will be a 26x40. The floor will be 4" 3000psi concrete with radiant heat over 3.5" xps insulation.
 
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Topstrap1

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Oct 11, 2013
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33
Location
East OH
When I built my 32' x 48' building I had to put in nearly 6ft of 304's or crushers run as some might call it limestone in one corner. It's a mixture of fines, #57's and #4's that really compacts in well. I didn't concrete it for quite a few years and did compact it while putting it in. When I concreted it I put in foam insulation and plastic under the concrete and so far no cracks and no settling. Don't let them put in regular dirt unless you can have it compacted before putting up your building so they can use a sheeps foot or vibratory compactor. Some around here have also used fly ash from the local power plants which compacts in well. Not sure on what others might have to say about any of this reacting with concrete but I've seen a lot of both used.

Good luck

Topstrap
 

RPH

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Dec 17, 2006
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Michigan Thumb
Buddy of mine is a power plant operator and they sell the fly ash to the concrete plants by the truck load.
 
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Flexia

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Joined
Mar 8, 2013
Messages
215
Location
Akron/Canton Ohio
When I built my 32' x 48' building I had to put in nearly 6ft of 304's or crushers run as some might call it limestone in one corner. It's a mixture of fines, #57's and #4's that really compacts in well. I didn't concrete it for quite a few years and did compact it while putting it in. When I concreted it I put in foam insulation and plastic under the concrete and so far no cracks and no settling. Don't let them put in regular dirt unless you can have it compacted before putting up your building so they can use a sheeps foot or vibratory compactor. Some around here have also used fly ash from the local power plants which compacts in well. Not sure on what others might have to say about any of this reacting with concrete but I've seen a lot of both used.

Good luck

Topstrap
Did you put your plastic and insulation right over the 304?
 

Dave Carney

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Feb 18, 2005
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318
Location
Derby, KS
I had a 15" difference to correct for and used limestone screenings, compacted, then 6" of concrete on top. The limestone screenings compacted really well and were put in after construction of the building, no problems.
 
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Flexia

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Mar 8, 2013
Messages
215
Location
Akron/Canton Ohio
I would always recommend to customers that they grade the land properly and then build if at all possible. In your case can you correct for the drop off, and then build?

Im thinking about splitting the difference. 15ton of fill and then build and then backfill. I would have a lot less inside the building
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
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43,169
Location
SE MI
Anything that does not contain organic material. The key is proper compaction.

Crushed concrete is fine, but larger sizes (> 1") are hard to compact with a plate compactor. If you are going to use crushed concrete, stick 3/4" down.

"Crusher run" is good because it contains different sizes material which helps it compact well.

Do NOT use "river rock", "pea gravel" or any aggregate with smooth round surfaces. It will not lock together when compacted.

You need to do your fill in "lifts" of about 4-6". After you have placed 4-6" of material, compact it. Take your time. Keep going over it until the surface is hard.

I would use sand for the final lift. Easier to spread and level.
 
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Flexia

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Joined
Mar 8, 2013
Messages
215
Location
Akron/Canton Ohio
Anything that does not contain organic material. The key is proper compaction.

Crushed concrete is fine, but larger sizes (> 1") are hard to compact with a plate compactor. If you are going to use crushed concrete, stick 3/4" down.

"Crusher run" is good because it contains different sizes material which helps it compact well.

Do NOT use "river rock", "pea gravel" or any aggregate with smooth round surfaces. It will not lock together when compacted.

You need to do your fill in "lifts" of about 4-6". After you have placed 4-6" of material, compact it. Take your time. Keep going over it until the surface is hard.

I would use sand for the final lift. Easier to spread and level.

Which crushers run is basically 304? I think I will be going with 304 concrete.

Also if I fill with sand can I put the vapor barrier then xps right on top of that before crete?
 

Topstrap1

Active member
Joined
Oct 11, 2013
Messages
33
Location
East OH
Did you put your plastic and insulation right over the 304?

Yes, put the plastic down then the foam insulation board right over it. Just be careful when putting in the concrete that it doesn't get under an edge of the foam board and push it up.

Topstrap
 

PetesPonies

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Jan 1, 2010
Messages
120
I have had to use considerable fill for two pole buildings I did. One, we had about 300 Bobcat loads of sandy soil we moved it. In the other place we did the fill with stone. Sandy soil happened to do better as fat as cracks go. Both buildings were built first, then I leveled the ground for concrete.
 

olytdi

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Dec 3, 2011
Messages
2,202
Location
Olympia, Washington
When I built my 28x28 pole barn, there was a 7 ft differential between the up and down slope on which it was built. I had 70 tons of pit run (crusher run) brought in and it's been absolutely solid. No movement whatsoever.

The only thing I did wrong with this was not to put enough of an "apron" along the low side such that there would be a wider area to walk around on the downslope side. It's not a fatal flaw but now I have to do it load-by-load with a bobcat over time.
 
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