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Pole barn or metal arch building

mgbbob

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Jan 3, 2009
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94
Location
Leavenworth, KS
I am planning a 18'x30' building. I want something tall enough for a lift. Pole barn or metal arch building is the question.

Is there a good way to insulate a metal arch building?

Bob
 
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NHBandit

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Jan 11, 2012
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East Tennessee
My thought is that with a metal arch building you're going to have half the useful space for the same size building as you would with a pole barn. I see absolutely no good points about having one other than they are cheap.
 

nvbigblue

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Mar 24, 2013
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Location
Nevada - when I'm not working.
I am planning a 18'x30' building. I want something tall enough for a lift. Pole barn or metal arch building is the question.

Is there a good way to insulate a metal arch building?

Bob

Most of the arch building companies have some type of batting insulation package available. Usually, you mount 'pins' on the inside of the building, then push them through the insulation and secure with a big plastic cap. However, depending on where you are, you might still run into moisture issues.

The best, meaning most expensive, method is probably to use spray foam. High R values, good moisture barrier, etc. But it will probably be quite expensive to install.


My thought is that with a metal arch building you're going to have half the useful space for the same size building as you would with a pole barn. I see absolutely no good points about having one other than they are cheap.

I can't speak to pole barns at all. Not a lot of them in my area back home. However, I think the useful space on an arch is going to depend on the model of building. The ones that would lose the most space would be the Q and A models. The Q is what most people think of... a Quonset hut or half pipe shape, the A has a peaked roof and straight walls, but the walls slope in starting from ground level. In both of these, you'll lose vertical wall space. The S and P models both have vertical walls, and either a peaked (P) or curved (S) roof.

Arch buildings do have the advantage of a clear span, but pole barns may have that as well. But pole barns will probably blend in a little better than an arch building in certain areas.

For me, I live in the sticks and like the industrial look. My arch building was just delivered last week. I got a 40x40X18 S model. My walls are straight up to about 9 1/2'. I will expand it at some point out to 60' long. When I put it up, I'll probably go with spray foam. Having an 18' ceiling gives me enough room to move the lift off to one side of the building, freeing up the center. I also off-set the roll up door to one side. Here's a couple of sketchup drawings. These are just for planning the layout of things...
40X40 GARAGEv21.jpg
40X40 GARAGEv22.jpg

Good luck!

NV
 

mikees455

New member
Joined
Oct 25, 2013
Messages
3
Location
El Dorado, KS
One person's inputs:
a) A third option is like my shop/garage outbuilding - a "pole barn" style using metal truss frames and wood girts/purlins. Also called "clear span". Provides continuously useable space across width and all the way to roof (no lower truss chords in the way like a typical wood frame pole barn).

b) I'd also suggest considering 12' sidewalls they give you tons of door/layout options and allow for future "growth (RV, car lift, etc.)

I bought mine from an outfit in Peculiar MO (Worldwide) because of a source who got me a great deal. There are lots of sources.

I too looked at arch styles - when I laid out the useable floor space to 12' height I would have had to go to 65x80 (arched) to get the same useable floor space as my 40x50 straight wall.

c) I'm insulating walls as I go using roll 23" insulation, then adding pegboard over it for utility. Once all air, lighting and wiring is completed I'll have a commerical outfit spray the roof 51/2" thick ('cuz they quoted me $ 1.25 per sq. ft. to do so and I don't want to be up on a ladder doing all that).

d) you might also consider rollup doors (think storage facility) versus overhead doors (think of your attached garage) - the fact that they mount on the header preserves your overhead space and does not block lighting/airflow when open. My 10x8s were $212 each - comparable to good quality overhead doors.

Just one guy's 2 cents worth...........
 
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NHBandit

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East Tennessee
Most pole barns are clear span as well. Just much more useful area to build shelves, store things against the walls, whatever. Flat surfaces simply make more sense in my mind. I will say the type shown with straight walls and a rounded roof might be fine. I went with scissor trusses in my pole barn type garage and it works for my needs. Here's my 30x40.
 

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nvbigblue

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Joined
Mar 24, 2013
Messages
45
Location
Nevada - when I'm not working.
One person's inputs:
d) you might also consider rollup doors (think storage facility) versus overhead doors (think of your attached garage) - the fact that they mount on the header preserves your overhead space and does not block lighting/airflow when open. My 10x8s were $212 each - comparable to good quality overhead doors.

Just one guy's 2 cents worth...........

Good catch.... definitely a good option. My roll up ran about 1200, but that's a 12X12 insulated, high wind load door w/drive motor.

Most pole barns are clear span as well. Just much more useful area to build shelves, store things against the walls, whatever. Flat surfaces simply make more sense in my mind. I will say the type shown with straight walls and a rounded roof might be fine. I went with scissor trusses in my pole barn type garage and it works for my needs. Here's my 30x40.

Nice building! Also the SS looks sweet! :drool:

NV
 

theoldwizard1

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Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,169
Location
SE MI
The best, meaning most expensive, method is probably to use spray foam. High R values, good moisture barrier, etc. But it will probably be quite expensive to install.

You said that a little backward. I would says ...
"For a metal building the best insulation is probably spray foam. It gives the highest R value and a good moisture barrier. If you are going to do anything that could generate sparks (grinding, welding, open flame) you need an to finish the insides with sheet rock or OSB. Spray foam IS very expensive to install.
 

theoldwizard1

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Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,169
Location
SE MI
Another alternative construction, especially if you are concerned about insulation, is Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs). Material cost is high, but installation cost is low. A small crew could build that in less than a day and you would have one of the best insulated buildings in the area. Or to say it another way, the cheapest to heat/cool !

SIP construction - 4 carpenters, a crane and a house in 1 day
 
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