Pole Barn or Stick Built
- Thread starter 70ss
- Start date
i went with a pole building due to cost and then finished it out as money allowed , but if i had the money to do it one shot i would rather have had stick built , you get a tighter and quieter building thats easyer to insulate heat cool , dont get me wrong i love pole construction for the speed and size and much easyer for the diy
2LTim
Well-known member
I was reading another thread last week where someone in New England had a "Barn" built by Geobarns. Go to Geobarns.com and take a look, pretty awesome! I would not hesitate putting up a pole barn with these guys. When I did my own, I copied some features from "Morton Buildings," and some from "Bloom Builders." My pole building is tight, quiet and insulated.
Tim
Tim
nonhog
Well-known member
I too went "pole" and not so sure I would again. (?) But cost being what they were I can slowly (but likely more costly) build it up as I wish.
2LTim
Well-known member
Twelve years ago, I built a 24' X 30' with 10' walls and a 7' upstairs. I picked up most of the building materials from a big box store in Des Moines that was going out of business, so I only have about $10,000 invested.
NWOhioChevyGuy
Well-known member
I'm looking to build a pole building as a DIY with a kit, just had it quoted materials only, no concrete.
http://www.64metals.com/index.aspx
Building Spec's
30 x 48 x 14
2' Eave and Gable Overhangs
R4 Roof insulation
2 - 10' x 12' Garage Doors
1 - 36" Man door
1 - Window
Metal:
Walls & Roof w/ 3' wainscoting
Rat guard
Vented ridge
Rafters are metal open span "Legacy Series"
Posts option with Perma-Columns (So no wood to ground contact)
$14,554.84 (does not include delivery) (will probably talk to brother-in-law who is a trucker to see if he can pick up and deliver when ordered)
The reason I'm looking at the metal rafters is it allows for more head room in the loft/storage area that will be above my office & bathroom area on the end of the shop.
Attached is a drawing of what I have planned.
Now I just need to sell my old house to make something happen.
http://www.64metals.com/index.aspx
Building Spec's
30 x 48 x 14
2' Eave and Gable Overhangs
R4 Roof insulation
2 - 10' x 12' Garage Doors
1 - 36" Man door
1 - Window
Metal:
Walls & Roof w/ 3' wainscoting
Rat guard
Vented ridge
Rafters are metal open span "Legacy Series"
Posts option with Perma-Columns (So no wood to ground contact)
$14,554.84 (does not include delivery) (will probably talk to brother-in-law who is a trucker to see if he can pick up and deliver when ordered)
The reason I'm looking at the metal rafters is it allows for more head room in the loft/storage area that will be above my office & bathroom area on the end of the shop.
Attached is a drawing of what I have planned.
Now I just need to sell my old house to make something happen.
Last edited:
jamesgpeck
Member
Insulating Block was Pole Barn or Stick Built
This brand of block is self stacking, insulated, and has a fireproof exterior. You pour concrete into them. The advantage is that they are not plastic on the exterior.
Jim Peck
http://www.e-zblock.com/
This brand of block is self stacking, insulated, and has a fireproof exterior. You pour concrete into them. The advantage is that they are not plastic on the exterior.
Jim Peck
http://www.e-zblock.com/
Not to High Jack this thread ... bit I too am just getting started looking at putting up a buildig. I was looking at a 40 x 60 x 12 Sheet Metal building to start with, then a Pole Barn ranging from 40 x 40 - 40 x 60. Prices on the 40 x 60 ranged from 21,00 - 44,000 for the same requirements.
I'm now going to price the lumber and trusses need for a stick building.
I'm now going to price the lumber and trusses need for a stick building.
Last edited:
pole barns are the least expensive.
I am starting a 40X40 with 14' walls.
I am considering using mobile home frame for the ceiling joists.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
I'm not so sure that pole barns are the least expensive. If you do equal work to both, I think they both they both equal out in price. A stick built goes on a foundation, which is more expensive up front, but with a pole barn, by the time you add studs, etc. to add insulation, finish off the inside, and such, they equal out to about the same. And adding a second story onto a pole barn, you need the lower level support also. I think it is whatever one feels comfortable with.
Is that erected. Who was the supplier.
krooser
Well-known member
I bought a 50X100 pole barn, took off a 30X50 piece, sold the rest and re-erected the 30X50 on my lot...
Here's what $5,000.00 and lots of sweat equity looks like...
Here's what $5,000.00 and lots of sweat equity looks like...
DECJ1
Member
I went with an M&W 30'x40' pole barn building for a 2-car garage/small shop building back in 1999 when we moved to our current location out in the middle of nowhere in southeastern Utah. A couple of years later, I then had another M&W 30'x60' pole barn building erected with 12'x12' overhead doors (one on each end), which I use for storing a truck/truck camper combo, tractor, implements, my Jeep TJ, and for general storage. Both buildings have internal 4" concrete slab floors with concrete walkways around all four sides.
I went with pole barn buildings for how fast they go up, and from an overall cost perspective in my remote area, they cost less than stick built construction. And their more industrial look was no problem for the rural/ranching area we live in. I plan to eventually insulate & sheet rock the 30'x40' garage building, and finish building-out my small shop area in the rear of the building (along with a through-the-wall A/C unit and wood stove heating). However, I don't plan to insulate the larger 30'x60' storage building.
I went with pole barn buildings for how fast they go up, and from an overall cost perspective in my remote area, they cost less than stick built construction. And their more industrial look was no problem for the rural/ranching area we live in. I plan to eventually insulate & sheet rock the 30'x40' garage building, and finish building-out my small shop area in the rear of the building (along with a through-the-wall A/C unit and wood stove heating). However, I don't plan to insulate the larger 30'x60' storage building.
No its not erected, just delivered and the supplier ... or broker is Steel Corp. Building Systems.
I am going to talk to him tomorrow about seeing comparable buildings and also to a few lumber yards to see about prices on stick building kits.
And to my insurance company to see how much if any difference there is in insurance.
protouring72
Member
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2007
- Messages
- 19
I've been wondering about this as well. Part of me wants to get a pole barn just because of the cost and the ease and quickness they go up. But I would like to do a stick building so I can make it match my house. My lot isn't that big, if I had a much larger lot, I wouldn't care what it looked like, but to me the steel/pole bldgs look a little too industrial for me.
krooser
Well-known member
Build a pole building but use wood siding...or brick...or stucco...or?????
mtwaterguy
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2007
- Messages
- 3,518
If you use what's called a commercial girt installation, it easier and less expensive to finish the inside of a pole barn. Instead of putting the girts on the outside of your 6x6's to attach the siding, place them in between the 6x6's. Turn them so the 1 1/2" side is facing the outside and inside of your wall. By doing this you frame the inside wall and the outside that you attach the siding to at the same time. In addition this makes a stronger building. Helps to prevent racking and twisting. I've done this on my last two pole barns and have been very pleased.
DECJ1
Member
I am with mtwaterguy ... I went with the option for both of my pole barn buildings to have them built "sheet rock ready" with the girts he described. This not only strengthens the building, but it makes for easy insulating and sheet rocking.
Ok so I am in the middle again. I saw a pole barn with living space on Tru-bilt.com. It is under the homes heading. It is a 42x54x10, I like the layout so I emailed them to get a price with concrete will see how that goes.
Dave Carney
Well-known member
Flush frame build link in my sig. Doesn't cost any more to finish the inside than a stick built.
Do you have any good pics of the installing the girts this way? Do you us a special bracket? Or toe nail the girts?
mtwaterguy
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2007
- Messages
- 3,518
http://www.pole-barns-buildings-oregon-washington.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=99
Here is an image of flush frame cobstruction. I have some land and I am planning to have a pole barn also.
Here is an image of flush frame cobstruction. I have some land and I am planning to have a pole barn also.
Last edited:
If I am picturing this correctly, you are talking about running 2x6s horizontally between the poles with 2x6 blocks nailed to the inside of each pole in order to attach the horizontal studs (girts?)
Seems that would create a very solid structure but it also seems that you would lose any cost savings benefit of the pole barn (assuming there even is one).
His200HerScout
Well-known member
if you go pole, i suggest building on a dry spot, keeping the ground drained, and keeping the rain gutters clear. i just tore down a poorly built pole barn that was made from telephone poles and some of the poles rotted from (i presume) poor drainage. about to break ground on a stick built.
Well I did mine back in 3/10, went with stick build on top of 36" of block. 2x6x10 walls, sheet metal ceiling and exteriour siding. Am very happy with it !! I have been working out of it for 4- 14 hrs. a day at least 5 days a week.
Am glad I decided on stick built vs. a Pole Barn.
Am glad I decided on stick built vs. a Pole Barn.
justin1795
Well-known member
I originally wanted a stick. we have about a 3 foot slope so I knew the concreate would be a bit of a cost. just got a bid of 46,700 for a 30x48 stick built. guy said it needed 10 foot of concreate walls ect. im going with a pole barn now and it will be siding.