I am wiring up my 38x40 pole barn. I have a 250ft roll of 10-2 Romex that I inherited that I would like to use. My plan was to have an outlet at every pole which is 5 on each side. I was going to use PVC outlets/conduit to top of pole then staple Romex across top purlin then come down PVC at next pole piggybacking outlets. What size conduit should I use to fit two 10-2 Romex wires in? Already found out 1/2in was way too small. Also, should I strip the Romex in the sections going in the conduit? It's a PITA without nicking hot wires so I would prefer not to. Thanks.
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Pole barn Outlet Wiring / Conduit
- Thread starter jdeshong
- Start date
pattenp
Well-known member
Do not strip the Romex that is a code violation. Since the conduit is just a sleeve use large enough to get the wire through so not to damage the jacket. I think 3/4 will work. You are going to find that the #10 will be near impossible to terminate at 120V outlets. Be sure to use large boxes and commercial grade outlets.
Last edited:
markietas
Well-known member
Wire isn't that expensive, I would save the 10/2 for a circuit that needs it. And like pattenp said it will be a pita to terminate it properly.
What wire would you recommend to make it easier? I want 20amp outlets. I already wired one outlet right next to the panel and i do agree the 10-2 is not easy to work with. Could i even use the 3 separate spools of #12 thhn since im not doing conduit above poles?
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sberry
Banned
Buy 12 for this. You don't need 20A outlets either. Save the 10 for dedicated equipment circuits. PVC is chincy and the selection of boxes and covers are a problem. Use EMT and get deeper combination boxes especially where gfci and any welder recepts will go. I like 14 wire for lights and switches. If you use steel boxes get a box of green ground screws, box each of orange, yellow and red wire nuts.
Personally think there is a lot of fuss over outlets that is unwarranted. I have used the cheap 49 cent versions for 20 years now and cant remember the last time I have replaced a failed one. I don't believe I ever have. I have replaced way older ones with these and even use them on my work bench where some have seen 1000's of cycles,,, wayyyyyyyyyyyyyy beyond what any home body type will ever use them.
I own hundreds of pieces of equipment, not a single one has a 20A end. They are normally used in institutions and some industrial on plugs to restrict access and limit it to mostly dedicated circuits where trips wouldn't be a problem.
I like all that bargain box stuff,,,, so much of an incentive to add an extra or replace vs wanting to save old ****.
Personally think there is a lot of fuss over outlets that is unwarranted. I have used the cheap 49 cent versions for 20 years now and cant remember the last time I have replaced a failed one. I don't believe I ever have. I have replaced way older ones with these and even use them on my work bench where some have seen 1000's of cycles,,, wayyyyyyyyyyyyyy beyond what any home body type will ever use them.
I own hundreds of pieces of equipment, not a single one has a 20A end. They are normally used in institutions and some industrial on plugs to restrict access and limit it to mostly dedicated circuits where trips wouldn't be a problem.
I like all that bargain box stuff,,,, so much of an incentive to add an extra or replace vs wanting to save old ****.
pattenp
Well-known member
To be clear on the 20A outlet. The circuit should be 20A but use 15A outlets. You don't need 20A outlets with the "T" looking sideways slot.
sberry
Banned
Agreed. I just wire a couple houses, all outlets on 20A. Shop its even more so due to motor starts. I have a circuit dedicated to my work bench which is the only non light 15 in the whole place. I have never tripped it due to overload but I don't weld from it and chop saw is on its own.
As for wiring pole barns in rather residential setting. Most,,, number 2 alum fed with a 60. In most cases do not pipe cable. Staple it out of the way, run a fir strip in front of it if you are worried and common cheap nail on boxes.
My chop saw didn't really find its true home for 10 years during some revision and tripped a common circuit anyway. The ideal garage wiring doesn't need to be perfect but leave it easy to do. You did good with a first circuit at the panel, great heavy tool circuit, don't add on to it. Run about 3 more generals, one down each wall and one for benches area etc, I add another for electronics and chargers, all that stuff and add a power strip or even 2. Add a couple outlets, power strip makes for easy wiring of task lights etc that can go from this same circuit.
If you are going to do a lot of outdoor another circuit. I talk a lot about future proofing and over kill, something I learned the hard way and my own situation is slightly different. Many designs and predictions about garages,,, well I never did one that turned out exactly like I thought or used utilities the way I planed it all perfect.
I missed a water hydrant during the build, simply moved it after. Same for electric, run the basic convenience and generals where you need it and come back for additional equipment as needed. You can use 20 spaces in a garage. You will only use 6 at any given time, on occasion 4 and mostly 1.5,,, a little on lights and fan and a tool circuit 1 at a time but having available spaces allows one to run a wire direct from additions smack to the panel and a breaker. It might require a bit more material but really most is in dedicateds and you got to be willing to buy a breaker and on occasion more wire.
That isn't a deal breaker for me and in the long run cheaper than parking a bunch of wire in the place that never really gets used. Pay now or pay later,,, later may be better if its needed. If you really do add dust collection run a wire for it. Don't use all this double outlet multi wire ****. I do it but really don't for customers unless there is some real compelling reason. Most of the time 2 things plugged are not both 20A continuous loads etc. They are just not, the load to most garages is minimal, even more so with the advent of LED, unless its heat or air cond then not really added much to the demand calc.
Had a Bud who was an electric light pig, worked in the garage, had a big 5 hp comp he wired on a 10 with a 30 and fed the polace 2 alum and never once slipped up the 60,,, 30 years, every day. Way beyond occupancy hours that most would ever see.
As for wiring pole barns in rather residential setting. Most,,, number 2 alum fed with a 60. In most cases do not pipe cable. Staple it out of the way, run a fir strip in front of it if you are worried and common cheap nail on boxes.
My chop saw didn't really find its true home for 10 years during some revision and tripped a common circuit anyway. The ideal garage wiring doesn't need to be perfect but leave it easy to do. You did good with a first circuit at the panel, great heavy tool circuit, don't add on to it. Run about 3 more generals, one down each wall and one for benches area etc, I add another for electronics and chargers, all that stuff and add a power strip or even 2. Add a couple outlets, power strip makes for easy wiring of task lights etc that can go from this same circuit.
If you are going to do a lot of outdoor another circuit. I talk a lot about future proofing and over kill, something I learned the hard way and my own situation is slightly different. Many designs and predictions about garages,,, well I never did one that turned out exactly like I thought or used utilities the way I planed it all perfect.
I missed a water hydrant during the build, simply moved it after. Same for electric, run the basic convenience and generals where you need it and come back for additional equipment as needed. You can use 20 spaces in a garage. You will only use 6 at any given time, on occasion 4 and mostly 1.5,,, a little on lights and fan and a tool circuit 1 at a time but having available spaces allows one to run a wire direct from additions smack to the panel and a breaker. It might require a bit more material but really most is in dedicateds and you got to be willing to buy a breaker and on occasion more wire.
That isn't a deal breaker for me and in the long run cheaper than parking a bunch of wire in the place that never really gets used. Pay now or pay later,,, later may be better if its needed. If you really do add dust collection run a wire for it. Don't use all this double outlet multi wire ****. I do it but really don't for customers unless there is some real compelling reason. Most of the time 2 things plugged are not both 20A continuous loads etc. They are just not, the load to most garages is minimal, even more so with the advent of LED, unless its heat or air cond then not really added much to the demand calc.
Had a Bud who was an electric light pig, worked in the garage, had a big 5 hp comp he wired on a 10 with a 30 and fed the polace 2 alum and never once slipped up the 60,,, 30 years, every day. Way beyond occupancy hours that most would ever see.
CJ7VFR
Well-known member
...You don't need 20A outlets with the "T" looking sideways slot.
Unless you have a specific tool that has the 20A male "T" lug configuration on its cord. These are not very common, but just make sure that if you have a tool that requires an actual 20A receptacle, that you provide at least one of them in your shop.
The only tool I have ever seen with an actual 20A male lug configuration on the cord was a huge old bench grinder my dad has. That thing is so freaking heavy, loud, and scary that any time he would turn it on to use it, it would actually dim down all the lights in the house for a second!
Jim
sberry
Banned
He had all kinds of stuff bootlegged on a 6 space panel and in a place like that don't absolutely have to weld big sticks while the air comp is running. Get a couple rolls of 14, one 3 conductor for switches and smokes if you got them.
Save the 10, welders, water heaters and some air comps.
My storage bld is way over wired. My shop is better except where I pre planned it well..... hahaha A lot of it was done as needed literally, some of the early lights hung cords. Still have a few switched recepts for that, 4x4 steel covers are easy and easy to change.
Save the 10, welders, water heaters and some air comps.
My storage bld is way over wired. My shop is better except where I pre planned it well..... hahaha A lot of it was done as needed literally, some of the early lights hung cords. Still have a few switched recepts for that, 4x4 steel covers are easy and easy to change.
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mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I am wiring up my 38x40 pole barn. I have a 250ft roll of 10-2 Romex that I inherited that I would like to use. My plan was to have an outlet at every pole which is 5 on each side. I was going to use PVC outlets/conduit to top of pole then staple Romex across top purlin then come down PVC at next pole piggybacking outlets. What size conduit should I use to fit two 10-2 Romex wires in? Already found out 1/2in was way too small. Also, should I strip the Romex in the sections going in the conduit? It's a PITA without nicking hot wires so I would prefer not to. Thanks.
No need to send wire down and back up. Use a box at the top and tie in a single feed to go down.
All good info here. Ill go with 14/2 for lights & garage door opener outlets and 12/2 for tbe 20 amp circuits.
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