pole barn pad prep?
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wfopete
Well-known member
I don't know the answer but I do know that you want to get this part right!
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
If you don't want the dirt underneath to come up and pollute your compacted stone you will.
jives
Well-known member
I think that is entirely based on your subsoil and how much gravel fill you are adding. When you drive your posts (pole barn?) you traditionally need to hit undisturbed soil, which will be beneath the geotextile. I've not heard of anyone adding geotextile, but that is limited experience.
We added about 240 tons of gravel (bank run) to level our pad after removing the topsoil. It was compacted in about 4-6" lifts by a heavy (20 ton) vibrating roller. On the "deep" side it is about 3.5' deep, on the shallow side, about 2' deep of fill. It is rock hard.
We added about 240 tons of gravel (bank run) to level our pad after removing the topsoil. It was compacted in about 4-6" lifts by a heavy (20 ton) vibrating roller. On the "deep" side it is about 3.5' deep, on the shallow side, about 2' deep of fill. It is rock hard.
52wrench
Well-known member
I don't think it's necessary but if the soil is loose I would compact it before you put down your crusher run then compact that well. Nice piece of property, where in upstate NY? Did you move those boulders with the bobcat?
matt_i
Well-known member
I would say it depends on the subsoil and how much groundwater can collect there due to existing grading/stormwater runoff. I have clay which is rock hard when dry, and like mashed potatoes when wet. Once sealed under the slab & 42" continuous footing around, after several dry weeks, I like to believe its pretty much dry from then-on.
If the ability for the soil to hold mositure and get mushy exists, its a prime opportunity for the gravel base to get smashed into the subsoil. Which would be the reason to pull out the geotex fabric.
My opinion is that its best-practice, but you can still do a good job without it. I would avoid gravel with the fines in it and go for the 3/4" washed stone instead. The superfine dust can setup fast, then fall out of the compacted state over time.
If the ability for the soil to hold mositure and get mushy exists, its a prime opportunity for the gravel base to get smashed into the subsoil. Which would be the reason to pull out the geotex fabric.
My opinion is that its best-practice, but you can still do a good job without it. I would avoid gravel with the fines in it and go for the 3/4" washed stone instead. The superfine dust can setup fast, then fall out of the compacted state over time.
danfromsyr
Well-known member
*waves. I'm just north of Syracuse, In Cicero.
I'm interested to know too as I'm planning to DIY a pole barn side extension to my barn.
them are some big rocks you have there.. I had some 24-36in sized ones I had to make a rock dolly to pull out of the ground in my yard.
looks like you have great water pressure (and a great lawn) where you are.
I'm interested to know too as I'm planning to DIY a pole barn side extension to my barn.
them are some big rocks you have there.. I had some 24-36in sized ones I had to make a rock dolly to pull out of the ground in my yard.
looks like you have great water pressure (and a great lawn) where you are.
machsnell
Well-known member
You only need geotextile fabric 9f your soil is muddy or very soft. In this case you should be at the bottom of your undercut which should be at least 18 inches.
If 8t is a fresh cut and the dirt doesn't pump and soils are compact able and solid just install your stone and compact.
I have used fabric for years and only like it as a layer to keep wet dirt and mud from pushing up into your stone. I use only in that case 9r when directed by soils consultant. In my experience it doesn't provide the lateral strength it is suppose to pull from because when it goes down (on soft subgrade) it rolls with the ssgrade.
If you need strength and soils are soft install larger rock and geogrid. Grid works because it is more rigid and interlocks with subgrade and stone to gain strength for your pad laterally.
It looks like you have good soil. Take a heavy truck or that wheeled bobcat (loaded) over it and watch for movement. Do this after you have compacted the dirt so you can see if it pumps.
Cut the soft areas and fill with stone or good dry dirt in lifts and WELL.
The fit step to a good pad and arguably the most important is what it's on. Fabric doesn't play an important part in that per say.
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If 8t is a fresh cut and the dirt doesn't pump and soils are compact able and solid just install your stone and compact.
I have used fabric for years and only like it as a layer to keep wet dirt and mud from pushing up into your stone. I use only in that case 9r when directed by soils consultant. In my experience it doesn't provide the lateral strength it is suppose to pull from because when it goes down (on soft subgrade) it rolls with the ssgrade.
If you need strength and soils are soft install larger rock and geogrid. Grid works because it is more rigid and interlocks with subgrade and stone to gain strength for your pad laterally.
It looks like you have good soil. Take a heavy truck or that wheeled bobcat (loaded) over it and watch for movement. Do this after you have compacted the dirt so you can see if it pumps.
Cut the soft areas and fill with stone or good dry dirt in lifts and WELL.
The fit step to a good pad and arguably the most important is what it's on. Fabric doesn't play an important part in that per say.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
