Pole barn planing stage

[1966chevelle]

I searched a bunch of threads for what people are happy with and for what people decided they did wrong. I am in the process of trying to figure out what I should do for my shop. My first thought was build a 40x40x12 because that fits into my money constraints but some people have said to go 32' wide and deeper cause its a lot cheaper. Please post general things you wish you would have changed in your building like trusses, insulation, ceiling or no ceiling, tyvek wrap the roof and walls, anything that would help someone in the planning stages would be great. Thanks

 

[Kburk09]

In a similar situation. Also looking at 40x40x12 actually. Curious to hear opinions.

 

[alskdjfhg]

For me 40' wide trusses were the most economical.

Since mine isn't done yet, they should get the metal up this week, I can't really tell you what id change.

 

[XRlifer]

I'm just finishing up my 36x48 pole barn. My biggest regret by far is not having my trusses engineered to carry a dead load.... which means no ceiling. Other than that, i'm pretty happy with the build. My buddy built one two years ago and picked his brain with the same questions as you. Guess neither of us considered the truss engineering.

 

[2012Eli3]

did a 32x56x14'6". 40' wide would have been enough to turn stuff inside easier. 12' wide by 13' high gable end OH door I wish I would have made 16' wide maneuvering boat and equipment in and out. Side OH door 8'x8' to porch should have been at least 9' wide for pickups going in and out easier.

 

[Jeepster04]

Youve got to check local prices and see what is most economical for your region. Prices vary so much based on location no one can say 'this works everywhere.' For me, I wanted an overhang and it wouldve cost just as much to have a 30' span and build an overhang when compared to having a 38' truss that overhangs a wall 8' for a cantilevered overhang. So my situation is unique.

For a longer span, that means everything will be longer. Roof metal, truss, etc. Are you putting the truss up by hand? Shorter span and deeper building is easier for lifting truss.

MAKE SURE THE FILL/CUT IS LEVEL!! Thats my 150% biggest mistake, trusting the dozer guy when he said its 4" off, which was perfectly fine and I could fill with dirt/gravel... Its 1.5' off! That one mistake has cost me so much time and money.. And Im not happy with how the building looks...

USE TYVEK! If you have any plans on insulating and heating the building, I wish anything I wouldve just spent the money and bought tyvek. Its $$ and I thought I couldnt do it at the time but these things (pole barns) are one big air leak...

 

[2fst4u_7]

I'm just finishing up my 36x48 pole barn. My biggest regret by far is not having my trusses engineered to carry a dead load.... which means no ceiling. Other than that, i'm pretty happy with the build. My buddy built one two years ago and picked his brain with the same questions as you. Guess neither of us considered the truss engineering.

Planning on the same size do you have a build thread or pictures?

 

[forAK]

Here's 40x40x14. I wish my eaves were 4' instead of 2' and I had installed trench drains in each bay instead of the 4" scuppers.

You didn't state what your intended use was for the shop, so it's hard to give advice. Planning is huge. All the little details add up when wiring, plumbing and window/door placement come into play.

 

[1966chevelle]

Thanks everyone for the help so far. The shop will be used to build cars and toys for the kids. We have built everything from go carts to 10 foot tall pickup trucks. Plus a few wood working projects in between.

 

[RPH]

Go to Diy pole barns .com. Play with the barn planner. When I did mine adding length was way cheaper the going wider. Mine is 30' wide but 72' long. If you have the room for it. But truss width drove a lot of cost.

 

[astroracer]

The biggest mistake I see when guys are designing a working shop is getting the overhead doors to close to the walls. My rule of thumb for a "working" garage or barn is "at least 6' on either side of the door". 4' will work but 6' is so much better. 6' give room for opening the car doors, storage or bench space and room to work on the car with storage or bench space on the wall.
Another point is concrete thickness. 4" of 3500PSI concrete is plenty. If you plan on installing a hoist go to BendPaks site and read up on their recommended concrete thickness. 3 1/2" is what they recommend for anything up to 14K.
Mark

 

[1966chevelle]

That DIY pole barn sight is addicting. I was planning on having my garage doors 5' from the walls that way I have a 9'ish between them so I can park the quads and mower between the doors if need be. Thanks everyone for the help I really appreciate it all. Please keep all the good information coming.

 

[cj7jeep81]

I built mine a couple years ago. So far, the only thing I wish I had done differently was use 3 scissor trusses in the back instead of 2. I'm building my loft this weekend, and originally planned on having it 12' deep (so 2 scissor), but decided to go 16. So it will look a little funny, but oh well. Probably my favorite decision was either the height, or the 2 big doors. Having 14' wide doors makes it much, much easier to back a trailer in (especially since I don't have the best approach angle).

 

[OutlawDrifter]

I'm part way through my 36x40x14. I went with a 20' wide door so I can use the middle of the building more efficiently. Take out some graph paper, or use a floor layout software to get a feel for the flow of work in the space. I will be able to park up to 7 cars in my building if absolutely needed, once the 4 post lift goes in. Most of the time it will have 2-3 in there. Always go as big as you can afford, you will fill up the "extra space" in no time. My walls will be OSB so I can hang cabinets or whatever, anywhere. If you will be heating and/or cooling the space, definitely put a ceiling in it. My walls will have R19 in them and the ceiling will be metal with R30 blown in.

 

[XRlifer]

Planning on the same size do you have a build thread or pictures?

Just joined this site a month ago, so don't have a build thread. I'll post a few pics when I get a chance. My building started out as a 24x30 simply to store my RV. Then it grew to a 24x36.........then the wife says "if you're going to build one, might as well build it once and bigger. Who was I to argue?

 

[Voi]

Go to Diy pole barns .com. Play with the barn planner. When I did mine adding length was way cheaper the going wider. Mine is 30' wide but 72' long. If you have the room for it. But truss width drove a lot of cost.

They don't have my area in their data base so I picked a zip code one state over that I thought might be similar for snow loads, etc.

Played with it a bit and my gut reaction is that the calculator is a bit conservative when it comes to cost of extra gable width. I think it's a good start but would make sure to talk to local builders and see what they think the threshold is for when it gets cheaper to add length over width.

 

[prd2hnt]

Are the 10ft tall pickups going to ever be on a trailer? My biggest regret was only being able to do a 12ft tall door. Limits my camper options.

 

[1966chevelle]

Are the 10ft tall pickups going to ever be on a trailer? My biggest regret was only being able to do a 12ft tall door. Limits my camper options.

Yes we have to trailer it everywhere. Its on fully hydraulic steering and the bumper/headlight height is to tall. Right now it stays in my brothers 26'x36' but we have to unload it. I was planning on just unloading it to get it inside. I see your point about going taller but I am not sure that is in my budget. I have been garage less for 2 years and am over it. I had a 24'x30' and it was to small for me. Since I moved all I have is a semi trailer which holds the mower and all my yard working tools plus the kids toys.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Cheaper to go up.