Pole barn post layout question

[psu927]

planning my 40X64X14 pole barn build. Going with 4 O.C trusses and I am sitting here going over the post layout with a few questions on how it's generally done and what is acceptable. The 2 end post won't be 8' O.C. if I want to keep a consistent 4' truss spacing. (gable trusses attached to outside of gable post). wondering how you guys usually layout the post? Or do you make the post all 8' O.C with some variance in the truss spacing?

Also, 2 10X10' doors and 1 12X12' going in the front, 12' in the center. Any helpful tips to make post layout easier? (doors will be evenly spaced).

In the rear, every other truss should be over a post. the front wont, due to the doors but I'm not concerned with it.

 

[buckwheat_la]

OK, I am going to bite. Unless I am missing something here, there is a header that goes along the tops of the posts, so the trusses don't have to sit any particular way to the post. Assuming you got this as a package, didn't it explain this already? Or maybe I am not understanding what you are really asking? Same with the doors, I know that where I am located, they insist on a header on overhead doors, even if there is a structural truss gable end designed for it, so put your posts wherever works best for you. The 12' in the center should already have a engineered header for the barn to hold up the trusses.

 

[astroracer]

Buckwheat is correct. The truss layout has no corelation to the posts. They sit on the 2 x 12 headers which should be through bolted at the top of the posts. The trusses can be at any spacing you desire.
Alfalfa.

 

[lakeroadster]

It depends on the barn. My 30 x 44 barn has 6 trusses. Every truss sits on a post.

I'd suggest the OP buy a set of engineered plans for the building. Money well spent.

 

[Nathan Cox]

planning my 40X64X14 pole barn build. Going with 4 O.C trusses and I am sitting here going over the post layout with a few questions on how it's generally done and what is acceptable. The 2 end post won't be 8' O.C. if I want to keep a consistent 4' truss spacing. (gable trusses attached to outside of gable post). wondering how you guys usually layout the post? Or do you make the post all 8' O.C with some variance in the truss spacing?

Also, 2 10X10' doors and 1 12X12' going in the front, 12' in the center. Any helpful tips to make post layout easier? (doors will be evenly spaced).

In the rear, every other truss should be over a post. the front wont, due to the doors but I'm not concerned with it.

I will give my experience, which isn't much, to your question about pole spacing.

I just had my barn done. Mine is a 30X50X15. The post are on 10' centers. The two end posts are slightly less than 10' center, which this makes perfect since to me. The building is exactly 50' long, if all posts were on 10' center the building would be 50'-4.5" On the ends, the measurement is 10' from end edge of post to center of next post, then 10' on center there after. And if it matters, my truss are on 5' centers.

 

[dw1]

OK, I am going to bite. Unless I am missing something here, there is a header that goes along the tops of the posts, so the trusses don't have to sit any particular way to the post. Assuming you got this as a package, didn't it explain this already? Or maybe I am not understanding what you are really asking? Same with the doors, I know that where I am located, they insist on a header on overhead doors, even if there is a structural truss gable end designed for it, so put your posts wherever works best for you. The 12' in the center should already have a engineered header for the barn to hold up the trusses.

Here a few pics on my barn what Buckwheat is referring to (Hope it helps)
Building Inspection Dept made me have another 2x12 header over my O/H doors!!
Plus, I have a 2x6 nailer- vertically between the header-nailed to the side of the truss.
(There is a header inside and out)

 

[psu927]

Thanks guys. This is an ag building, so no permits or inspections. But it will be built correct, and yes, there will be a continuous 2X12 header the whole way around, with possibly an LVL above the 12' door. I am notching the inside 12X12 into the post for added strength. I don't see a need to pay 2-500$ for engineered plans in my case. I know the building will be more than adequately built.

I believe I am probably over thinking it though.

 

[mtwaterguy]

My shop, 40 x 96', has posts @ 12' and trusses @ each post. Commercial girts as well.

 

[buckwheat_la]

Here a few pics on my barn what Buckwheat is referring to (Hope it helps)
Building Inspection Dept made me have another 2x12 header over my O/H doors!!
Plus, I have a 2x6 nailer- vertically between the header-nailed to the side of the truss.
(There is a header inside and out)

Exactly this.

I will never understand the "why" behind insisting on the other header on the doors. I have been told that as well, and it was justified as extra support for the door itself. Funny thought though (that I bet you and him didn't consider) if a extra header was required, why not put it "between" the bolted header.

You ever want to hurt a inspectors ego, (only do this after your inspection is done and passed) ask him if the roof trusses have been engineered to support the weight of the garage door when it is up.... I was in a argument with a inspector over a large bulk head we had put up for a automotive store (mainly 2 support 2 TV's) that a inspector didn't like. I looked at him and asked him rather abruptly why in the hell we would need engineering for a bulkhead that weighs a couple hundred pounds supported over a large area, when the overhead door is only connected on a couple of points and weighs more than the bulkhead. The problem with arguing with a inspector is they don't have to justify anything, so I never really got a answer, and still had to get a engineer in.

 

[buckwheat_la]

Thanks guys. This is an ag building, so no permits or inspections. But it will be built correct, and yes, there will be a continuous 2X12 header the whole way around, with possibly an LVL above the 12' door. I am notching the inside 12X12 into the post for added strength. I don't see a need to pay 2-500$ for engineered plans in my case. I know the building will be more than adequately built.

I believe I am probably over thinking it though.

You are definitely over thinking it. the 2x12 header is more than adequate to support the roof load. nothing wrong with notching out the posts. On ones we have built in the past, we notched out the inside, so that when you go to finish the inside, you can cut your 2x4 flush with the posts instead of layering them overtop, it saves you a couple inches and makes the finishing easy.

 

[bullnerd]

You can look in my build, third pic down. Trusses are 4', posts are 8'.Posts line up, with one in between. Pick an end and the odd one is what it is. I think its the far one in this pic. Start from one end and space evenly.

 

[lakeroadster]

You are definitely over thinking it. the 2x12 header is more than adequate to support the roof load.

Maybe, maybe not. Wondering where the OP lives?

• Snow Load = ?
• Live Load = ?
• Roofing type (Shingles, Steel)
• Post Spacing = ?
• Wind Load = ?
• Snow Trim / Brake Loading = ?
• Loft and or Ceiling supported by Lower Truss Chord? Loading = ?

 

[psu927]

Maybe, maybe not. Wondering where the OP lives?

• Snow Load = ?
• Live Load = ?
• Roofing type (Shingles, Steel)
• Post Spacing = ?
• Wind Load = ?
• Snow Trim / Brake Loading = ?
• Loft and or Ceiling supported by Lower Truss Chord? Loading = ?

its 17322 zip built to 35psi roof snow load. With 8' OC post and the double 2X12 notched header it's more than enough. That part I do know. Trusses are also engineered for the area's snow loads, as well as inside metal ceiling support.

 

[buckwheat_la]

Maybe, maybe not. Wondering where the OP lives?

• Snow Load = ?
• Live Load = ?
• Roofing type (Shingles, Steel)
• Post Spacing = ?
• Wind Load = ?
• Snow Trim / Brake Loading = ?
• Loft and or Ceiling supported by Lower Truss Chord? Loading = ?

I don't think you thought this statement through so I am going to leave the sarcasm out of it but if they were going to insist on a 12x2 header over the 8 ft pole spacing do you really think they would do all that and still plan that a truss would need to land on the post layout vs just adding another layer to the header?

 

[csp]

but if they were going to insist on a 12x2 header over the 8 ft pole spacing............

Who is "they"?

lakeroadster's point was that not enough info was known about the OPs build for anyone to decide what is or isn't enough.

 

[buckwheat_la]

Who is "they"?

lakeroadster's point was that not enough info was known about the OPs build for anyone to decide what is or isn't enough.

I am assuming that somewhere along the way he bought these trusses and and there was a general layout for them.

 

[csp]

Like lakeroadster said, maybe, maybe not. Better to ask rather than assume.

 

[lakeroadster]

Thanks csp..

 

[Modoc]

interesting discussion, I'm with Lakeroadster not enough info or location... in my area code states posts can be no more than 12' spacing and thats for 6"x6" posts.
code also for my area is 40# snow load and 110 mph wind... which is the one that gives me a chuckle, but they didn't ask me for my opinion either.

 

[psu927]

Once again, it will be built more than strong enough. and there will be no inspections since it is an ag building. Trusses are engineered for the area's loading requirements by the truss manufacturer.

Thanks for the help guys, I gotta sit down and figure out the front post layout so all of my doors are spaced evenly. I think I am going to bite the bullet and just install all 3 12X12 doors.

 

[Brown6041]

My shop, 40 x 96', has posts @ 12' and trusses @ each post. Commercial girts as well.

what size post are you using? 6x6?