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Pole barn post

Cb-man

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Joined
Jul 19, 2013
Messages
165
Location
Newport, MI
I was just wondering when building a pole building how do you make sure the pole are the right height out of the ground ?
 
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gearbuilder

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Jun 17, 2008
Messages
108
Location
NW Indiana
Hi Cb-man,

"blazingnailgun" has several videos on YouTube titled "How to Build a Pole Barn". The first one goes into good detail on how to get the posts at the right height.

Jamie
 
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Cb-man

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Joined
Jul 19, 2013
Messages
165
Location
Newport, MI
thanks gearbuilder,
I didn't know if they went off leveled land shot with a transit or ran a string line at the perimeter. then how to make sure the string is level.
I will look into the videos.
 

gearbuilder

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Jun 17, 2008
Messages
108
Location
NW Indiana
He uses a laser to set his poles but a water level is a low cost way to establish a level line. I used a water level while laying the five rows of block for the foundation of my 30 x 36 attached garage. After I was done I checked my work with a transit and it was within 1/4" at the farthest corners.

Jamie
 

driz

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Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
701
Location
Northern NY
Buy them a few feet too long. Cut the tops off with a chain saw later. :)

That's how I did my 24 x 50 barn last Fall. Leave em all too long then go back and cut them off with either a chain saw or demo saw. Even if a couple are off a bit you won't notice later on when it's done.
 
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Cb-man

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Jul 19, 2013
Messages
165
Location
Newport, MI
I like the leave them longer idea. more room for error while setting them.
Once they are set you can tie them together leveling the bottom and top boards and cutting the excess.
Also the same on the gable posts.

Thanks guys.
Just thinking all the time wanting to build a bigger shop. try to research all ways.
pole barn stick built and hiring it out or just start building something myself alittle bit at a time.
 

larry_g

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Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,864
Location
oregon
If you look at my build below, posts 5&6, you can see the trusses up and the post still to be cut off.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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Cb-man

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Jul 19, 2013
Messages
165
Location
Newport, MI
I just watch all the videos. I really like how he notched the posts so the post supports the weight and not just a bolt.
Also seems like using the transit level for the concrete footings is a good idea to get everything level to start.

Thanks for posting up that link.
 

Qcowboy

Active member
Joined
Feb 11, 2013
Messages
35
When they built my riding arena, they used posts that were made from three 2x6 boards, glued and screwed together into a laminated post. At the top, they left the middle board out of the last three feet or so, so that the top of each post looked like a fork with two prongs.

That way, they could set all the posts without worrying too much about leveling them. when they were ready to set trusses, the trusses fit into that slot in the "fork" on the top of each post. They simply shot a level around the top after the posts were set, marked each post for the amount of the slot that needs to be filled in order for the truss to sit level, and then they cut a filler block out of 2x6 to set under the truss.

It was the first time I saw builders using that method, and it struck me as ingenious. They did it again when we had another arena built at our new place.

When you do it that way, you don't need to care whether each post is exactly the right depth in the hole as you set it. As long as you're within a foot or two, you're golden.
 
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Cb-man

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Jul 19, 2013
Messages
165
Location
Newport, MI
that sounds like a good idea as well cowboy! And I have been thinking about building my own laminated columns if I build a shop.
 

Qcowboy

Active member
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Feb 11, 2013
Messages
35
I've since built a number of laminated posts for various purposes. It's easy, and best of all, they never warp like solid posts often do. Theoretically, laminated posts are stronger too.
 

Qcowboy

Active member
Joined
Feb 11, 2013
Messages
35
Just in case a visual helps anybody, here's a photo of one of my posts, with a truss sitting in the notch, supported by a filler block (slightly darker) that was cut at just the right length to make that particular truss sit at the same level as all the others.

I like the inherent strength in this design since the truss sits on that filler block, and the bolts don't need to hold it up. It avoids the possible catastrophe that could occur if the truss end splits under load and breaks around the bolt holes.

The top of the two "forks" at the top of each post would have been trimmed after the truss was set in place. That's much quicker and easier, of course, than trimming a 6x6 post, since you're only trimming a 2 inch thick board on each side.

001_zpsd3f124e7.jpg
 
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