Pole barn sliding door options needed please

[penth2o]

Hello. I just bought a 32X32 pole barn with 12 foot sliding doors. It is as bare as the day it was built. I am beginning the process of insulating the walls along with the ceiling. One major downside..... Double sliding doors. These things have major gaps ALL the way around them.
My question would be.
What are my options or what would you guys do to retain the heat while working in the winter. Would you spray foam the doors and just cover the whole thing from the inside with a thick mil covering? Replace the whole shebang?
I would appreciate your ideas and input.

Thanks folks.

 

[kbs2244]

I would go with IR heat.

 

[Bob2112]

I put Memtech brush seals on the top and bottom, and some window weather stripping on the side surfaces that get compressed when I latch the doors shut. That is assuming you have pull-lock type latches to keep the doors closed. (Like this: https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-jamb-latch-hook-steel-l-7-in-1xmy8/i/G2358833/)

For insulation, I was able to fit two layers of polyisocyanurate insulation (1 inch and .5 inch), which I taped in place with foil tape, and then covered the whole thing with white wall board (like the dry erase marker board stuff - it is very cheap and nice and white).

It seems to work pretty well given the limitations of sealing up a sliding door, details can be seen in my build thread.

 

[readhead]

If you live in snow country they will be a constant maintenance issue keeping snow and ice removed at the bottom. I sell and erect metal buildings and cringe when someone wants sliding doors. They like the idea but don't understand the downside. You already know the downside. I would recommend installing an insulated overhead door. Solves all your problems in one step. You can leave the rolling doors and just have them open or remove them all together. Most people assume that rolling doors are less expensive but that is not the case.

 

[TractorJeff]

My neighbor has a single slider on his Semi-Tractor shop. We get snow here! He has never had any issues with not getting the door open or closed. My suggestion for his insulation is similar to Bob in post 3 but suggested perf steel which was riveted in verses the white board. His locks pull the door tight minimizing air leakage.

 

[penth2o]

Thanks guys. I can see this is going to be my major source of heat loss.im looking into an overhead door with the sidemount motor.
If I’m going to spend this much insulating it, I might as well do it right and seal it off tight.
Thanks for your help.
To Readhead..... I can see why you cringe when a customer wants sliders. This bums me out.

 

[Bob2112]

Yea, roll up doors are the better way to go if you are starting from scratch. But they aren't exactly cheap either. Also, i think 1.5" of polyiso is probably a better R rating than you can get in most insulated roll up doors, but I could be wrong on that.

I have seen some people put up a roll up and leave the sliders on too. Then you can pull the sliders closed and it provides an extra wind break and protection against theft, storm damage, etc. for the roll up door.

 

[kbs2244]

There are other door styles
BI-fold comes to mind.
Do a youtube search on "hanger doors"

 

[jack stand]

I'll bet you'll have to re frame the opening for a normal sized o.h.d. to fit. This also means metal repairs and that will run up the price of this project. I'd spend the time cutting & fitting rigid iso foam in your rolling door, play with adjustments & latching hardware along with some clever bottom seal solutions to keep the wind out and try it for one winter.

 

[Bob2112]

One more suggestion I have seen is the use of hay baler belting material as a wind blocker on the outside of the door. Brush seals inside, and the belt stuff on the outside I have heard makes a good seal. I haven't tried it myself though.

 

[climb.on]

I personally have a hard time with how poorly regular garage doors seal (I want them to seal like a window). I can't imagine trying to seal a sliding door on a conditioned building. Put in an overhead door. Any of the big box stores can order an overhead door to fit your opening - no need to reframe it to some standard size. I don't think there are standard sizes anyway unless you went to a 7' or 8' tall door and that would be silly on a nice big building like that.

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

The reason for re-framing is to allow the door to open. Sliders are usually as tall as the building, right to the rafters, and I know of no sectional door that can open in 0 inches of clearance. Side clearances may need to be adjusted so door opening is all in one plane. Otherwise the seal will not work. Meaning there may be diagonal post braces as many pole barns have to stiffen the structure. Cutting them out to put in an overhead door may not be advisable.

 

[iagsxr]

I'm not convinced you can't get a slider to seal up as good or better than an overhead door.