Pole barn wall finish

[SFU]

What would be the downfall of running 1 1/2" foam board horizontal between pole barn girls then running 1/2" foam board over that and finishing with 1/2" plywood that is screwed through to the girls that are on 2 foot centers

 

[mike93lx]

it would be a thermal break, so that's good, but what about the cavity? is it filled with insulation?

foam board (if bought new) isn't particularly cheap. it can often be bought used for significant discounts, so that could help.

 

[purediesel]

To answer your question, no. But for all the surface area of each 2x4 you will one have about an R3.5 or so. Add all that area up and your R7.5 wall goes down. I will be adding 1.5" foam board in between each girt and then adding R19 batt to fill the cavity. Your downfall of your question is the fact that you are wasting the usable insulation cavity and only gaining 5" of space in each cavity, 10" total in interior building width, you have to ask is it really worth losing the money when it comes to heating and cooling?? No I don't think it is.

 

[SFU]

If the first layer of foam board is flush with the horizontal 2x4s and the next layer is against that with the plywood next to that there is no cavity. I just did not want the added cost of the 2x4s for a stud wall and did not real want to use fiberglass insulation
Does that make sense.

 

[mike93lx]

If the first layer of foam board is flush with the horizontal 2x4s and the next layer is against that with the plywood next to that there is no cavity. I just did not want the added cost of the 2x4s for a stud wall and did not real want to use fiberglass insulation
Does that make sense.

what about the space between the poles? what is filling that?

a pic would help

 

[SFU]

Planning on running the first horizontal layer behind the 4x6 poles. I wanted the look of the 4x6s out of the finish walls.

 

[pofc]

I too live in michigan and did post frame construction.I wanted to have a smooth wall and was going to heat it . so where the roof trusses set there is a 2x8 or 2x10 on both sides of the posts, so i studded down from there to get smooth wall floor to ceiling,Insulated the whole wall cavity and lots of insulation in ceiling. I know you want to save money but it really didn't make a noticeable difference in our gas bill to keep it a 55 all the time and 60-65 when working out there .It's 1000 sqft. Michigan winters very so much but would guess $20 a month to heat just the garage. I am very glad I went this direction now, kind of a you can pay me now or you can pay me later thing. either way you go enjoy your new play area as my wife calls it.

 

[santagary]

Use white pegboard instead of the plywood on the reachable part or the wall...saves painting and money...hang stuff, don't put stuff on the floor or other flat places like your workbench.

 

[purediesel]

The space between your posts is your main cavity not in between the girts. Its your barn so do what you want. Just doesn't make any sense to not fill the space you have to save yourself money every time the heater kicks on.

 

[JimH]

I used foam board between the girts and T1-11 nailed to the girts on my pole barn. Then OSB ceiling with blown insulation. I don’t heat mine full time, only when I’m out there working, and that’s usually only weekends at best. I also only use a propane salamander or kerosene radiant heater. It’s worked well for me and my use.