Pole barn wall framing

[samert111]

DirtRoad,
From what I recall in one of your earlier threads, you have steel siding and not OSB like what we're seeing here mostly. What are your plans to protect the insulation from getting up againt the steel siding from the inside and possibly wet from any condensation or rain that gets past the overlaping joints in the siding?

 

[Cougar]

Arent those joist hangers kinda pricey though? I remember a few years ago I built a deck for a friend and I remember those hangers where like $7 apiece or more, that would add up pretty fast.

At Menards they're about $.60 ea.

 

[Toomanytools?]

b i n g o !!!

HA "Bazinga"

 

[Highbeam]

Joist hangers like that are 99 cents apiece at home depot here in WA. I just installed 140 of them hanging ceiling joists between the trusses in my 30x60.

I might just be building my walls this way with the interior girts. Saves a lot of wood and labor.

 

[DirtRoad]

DirtRoad,
From what I recall in one of your earlier threads, you have steel siding and not OSB like what we're seeing here mostly. What are your plans to protect the insulation from getting up againt the steel siding from the inside and possibly wet from any condensation or rain that gets past the overlaping joints in the siding?

That’s exactly why I want to use 2x4’s for the framing (well that and cost). Since I have to frame out from the posts 1.5” to be flush with the header and im using 3.5” thick insulation it will be a good 5” from touching the steel siding. Yes there will be a good 5” cavity between the finished wall and the siding but I don’t see that being much of a problem.

At Menards they're about $.60 ea.

After my post I looked at lowes, menards and home depot and menards is about 50 cents each. Lowes and home depot are $5+, just crazy.

 

[FITO]

imo if you have to use all the 2x4s to insolate the dam thing why use the poles in the 1st place? Just build a stick frame from the get go.

b i n g o !!!

Do you two think you can build load bearing walls 16' tall with 2x4's?

I know there are cheaper ways to finish off interior walls but here is my reasoning behind the way I went.

It gives air space between the tin and the wall for a conduction break, and I also had no idea how I will use my barn for the rest of my life. What/where will I hang stuff on wall. I like knowing there is a stud every 16'.

I also found it easy to frame/insulate by myself as time would allow with a newborn and 17 month old to tend to.

I think spray foam would be the best, but I was afraid of the cost and you still need to frame for wall covering.

I also had this issue that many of you won't or didn't have.
Concrete pads were on land when I purchased home and county had no records of permits for the pour. Therefor would not allow stick build on pad. I'm pretty sure pouring footings and stick building would have cost much more than what I'm doing.

I've used this site and a few others for guidance on every step of my build and what I've found is that those that post what they've done and how its worked is by far more helpful than what they think will work.

 

[DirtRoad]

Do you two think you can build load bearing walls 16' tall with 2x4's?

I know there are cheaper ways to finish off interior walls but here is my reasoning behind the way I went.

It gives air space between the tin and the wall for a conduction break, and I also had no idea how I will use my barn for the rest of my life. What/where will I hang stuff on wall. I like knowing there is a stud every 16'.

I also found it easy to frame/insulate by myself as time would allow with a newborn and 17 month old to tend to.

I think spray foam would be the best, but I was afraid of the cost and you still need to frame for wall covering.

I also had this issue that many of you won't or didn't have.
Concrete pads were on land when I purchased home and county had no records of permits for the pour. Therefor would not allow stick build on pad. I'm pretty sure pouring footings and stick building would have cost much more than what I'm doing.

I've used this site and a few others for guidance on every step of my build and what I've found is that those that post what they've done and how its worked is by far more helpful than what they think will work.

Im in the same boat.

I have a 3 year old and a 1 year old. My wife works mandatory 50 hour weeks with a very inconsistent schedule and i do my 40 hour weeks. Because of my work situation where i can come and go as i need to means that i am with the kids AT ALL TIMES if im not at work lol On top of that we commute 2 hours a day to and from work and daycare each.

Long story short im married with 2 young kids, i have no money and i have no time so everything i do needs to be financially frugal and something that can be done when time allows.

Hell sub feeding the barn took me 2 months when it really would have only taken 2 days. Wife and kids man, wife and kids.

 

[goneflyin2002]

I know you guys will think I'm crazy.
I didn't want to lay the 2x4's up against the poles, so I put them flat on 2' centers.
I notched each end of the 2x4 by 1-1/2" with my bandsaw and nailed them in with a nail gun.
Super strong, the walls don't flex one bit.
Gives a great place to mount my electrical boxes too.
The insulation is R20, 6" thick and the 2x4's hold them horizontally nice an cozy.
Steel on the inside so I pre-drilled the sheets for 2' centers and it worked out ok.
Just finishing up with the steel on the walls this week.

Don

 

[bleazenb]

Attached are pics of how I am doing my wall framing and insulation. I'm setting the 2x4 2' on center and placing the R-19 rolled insulation between the out 2x4's the steel is attached to and the inter 2x4's I'm attaching the OBS to. Works very and because the insulation is not pressing directly against the outside steel, because the outer 2x4's hold it away from the steel just a bit I'm not at all worried about mold or moisture problems. Plus adding the 6mil vapor barrier to inside of framing.

 

[ravencr]

We're planning to build a pavilion at our RV park this year in Iowa. Our frost line is 42" deep. What we're planning to build is basically a 30x30' open air pavilion with roughly an additional 30x15' enclosed portion of the building that will house two bathrooms and a storage room. Here's what we're planning:

My questions revolves mostly around how to do the foundation. According to our building department, it doesn't really distinguish specifics for a pole building versus a traditional foundation. But, for a traditional foundation, the footing has to be 42" below the surface with a 16" wide x 8" deep footing. Where I'm confused is if we're doing a pole barn, I'm guessing that we'd pour the similar type footing at the bottom, then either put the post on top of that and pour concrete around it, or we'd use a sonotube, then metal brackets and rest the posts on top of it.

Because the whole floor will be concrete, how do you pour the slab and then finish the interior of the exterior walls and still let the floating concrete floor float without hindering the finished floor space inside the bathrooms? Will we have to do a traditional footing all the way around the enclosed portion of the building, or can we do it like the rest of the open pavilion?

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[ravencr]

Anybody?

 

[msgross]

Might want to start a new thread on your question...

The poles can go below the frostline and have a small amount of concrete in the bottom. Builders in my area are cheaper than trying to do it myself...

 

[synchro7]

FITO, I did the same thing you did. I built 2x3 stud wall between the poles 2' on center. Used 6" R-19 insulation, (it spreads out behind the studs). The insulation touches the steel siding. We don't have to worry to much about moisture here in eastern Colorado, our relative humidity is very low. I also used OSB, but only up 4',the rest drywall.

 

[gayler]

I think you might be confused as to what im talking about with option 1.

Im not sure I can explain it any better though, hoping someone has done it and can post some pics, it would clear up the confusion.

Nothing you have brought up would be a problem though as far as I can tell.



That’s basicly my number 2 option.
If I went that route how do I secure the bottom plate to the concrete?

Thats kind of how I did mine. I built the wall sections, stood them up and slid them between the posts and screwed them to the posts. I may get flamed for this, but mine is not connected to the floor.

 

[DirtRoad]

Thats kind of how I did mine. I built the wall sections, stood them up and slid them between the posts and screwed them to the posts. I may get flamed for this, but mine is not connected to the floor.

Thats how i ended up doing it.

I also did not fasten the lower plate to the floor. After putting the stud walls in and screwing them to the posts and header it was so solid i didnt see the need.