Pole Barns... DIY'ers?

[8liter]

Who has built their own pole barns? What tricks are there? What are they costing? I live in the south and Im thinking that it will be a little cheaper down here.

I know these are broad questions but I just want to get some input whatever it might be.

Thanks guys...

 

[yimbo]

Built my 1300 sq. ft building after I had the 6 x 6 posts put in, had to constantly stop to figure out how to do things which cost me a lot of time (never built anything like this before). Most of the time didn't have any help so I had to figure out how to do some things on my own which cost me more time. had to put some 32' trusses up by my self also some 4' x 10' sheets of James Hardie concrete fiber siding, and some of the 18' long steel roof panels. Plan, plan, plan ahead so you don't waste time figuring stuff out as you go. So far my building cost has been $16,000, thats 6 x 6 post frame augered and installed, siding, roofing, most wiring, 16 used windows, and 24' x 32' concrete so far.
As I said plan plan plan.

 

[denis4x4]

Built a 20' X 48' hay barn using 4" steel posts with saddles to hold 4" X 6" material and had factory built trusses. we used turnbuckles and cable for shear. Later converted it to a garage after selling the livestock. The design was such, that the walls were not load bearing and went up in panels bolted to the steel posts.

 

[stingry]

Pole barns are very simple in constructions and are probably the cheapest form of construction for a basic structure. If you are going to insulate and finish the inside, then IMHO a stick frame is the better alternative. I am finishing a 3500 sq ft shop with 10' sidewalls and used 2x6 framing on 24" centers. Back to pole buildings, even though simple in construction, they do offer a few challenges to the DIYer. These challenges increase as the size of the building increases. A lot of the work will be high above the ground and will require some sort of lifting device for setting the poles, raising the trusses and attaching the purlins and roof tin. As stated above, plan ahead, rent a high lift forklift, telehandler or scissor lift and have at it! These are not cheap so have all needed material on site and put a crew together to help. Plans are readily available from extension offices, the internet or your local home center.

One thing that I have noticed is that local builders are getting away from the solid 6x6 posts and using 3 pressure treated 2x6's laminated together. Finding straight 6x6's is hard to do, particularly longer ones.

Cheers
Steve

 

[rodnok1]

For a bigger building it is cheaper overall. Get good plans and study them and check them, I found several errors on my plans(measurements). Hardest part was getting roof panels up. Figuring out all the trim was a PITA since details were not that good on plans. Get the materials delivered close unless you like hauling heavy lumber a long way. I didn't really use too many specialty tools, air nailer, laser level, harness to keep from falling off 22' roof. If you have not done major remodel jobs it could be a steep learning curve.

 

[sberry]

I do my own because I can but a good pole barn builder is worth his salt, so fast.

 

[nehog]

My son-in-law and I built my 30x60 metal (not pole) building. I did much of the work, his help was valuable both with tasks that worked well with two people, and some tasks that were just labor intensive (siding/roofing for example). I didn't push the schedule, and there is a lot of 'self pride' in being able to say "I built this myself..."

 

[trbomax]

My wife and I totaly built ours,from clearing/stumping trees to what you see here. Its likely our last one though because we are 66 and 64 yrs old now.It wasnt our first,weve been building our houses and shops since 1973.

 

[larry_g]

In wandering around this forum I realize that there are a few different ways to build pole buildings. So yes plans are needed. I went with a kit from a local place. They provided all the drawings and an instruction book that was perty good. We erected the building and looking back I don't think that we saved anything dollar wise and it took months longer to get it up. See the build below. The up side of the kit was that the materials were of very good quality, straight knot free lumber where needed, all the components were there and we did not have to keep running out to get materials. I can recommend M&W building supply for the kit. They spent time to design the building with me so that I have what I want.

lg
no neat sig line

lg
no neat sig line

 

[mtwaterguy]

If you are going to insulate and finish the inside, then IMHO a stick frame is the better alternative. Steve

If you install the girts inside the posts "commercial girt" you solve this problem without the added cost, by framing the inside and outside at the same time.

 

[Haze08]

If you install the girts inside the posts "commercial girt" you solve this problem without the added cost, by framing the inside and outside at the same time.

Could you explain this "commercial girt" some more or guide me in the right direction to see this framing style.

My dad just build a 30 x 40 and I just didnt see the cost savings by the time the inside was framed out for finishing. I am hoping to put up a 40 x 60 this spring and would like to look at some framing alternatives.

Thanks Kenny

 

[larry_g]

Could you explain this "commercial girt" some more or guide me in the right direction to see this framing style.

My dad just build a 30 x 40 and I just didnt see the cost savings by the time the inside was framed out for finishing. I am hoping to put up a 40 x 60 this spring and would like to look at some framing alternatives.

Thanks Kenny

http://www.mwbsc.com/

In the above link go to the 'building model' to learn grasshopper.

This is the company I bought my kit from. If you look at my build thread you can see that I used commercial girts in the machine shop area. The rest of the building is conventional.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[mtwaterguy]

Could you explain this "commercial girt" some more or guide me in the right direction to see this framing style.

My dad just build a 30 x 40 and I just didnt see the cost savings by the time the inside was framed out for finishing. I am hoping to put up a 40 x 60 this spring and would like to look at some framing alternatives.

Thanks Kenny

Turning the 2x on it's side at 2' intervals is the key. Gives you place to screw the outside material, spacing to place your insulation and support for your interior walls all with the same frame work. My last three shops have been done this way and it works great. My current shop, 40 x 96 has some areas that are finished inside and some storage areas that have been left unfinished.