I am currently in the process of buying a pole building from our local lumber yard (Carter Lumber). They have a computer program that generates a model based off of the customers dimensions, they then make a material list based on this model. My building will be 30' wide by 27' deep. I am looking over the material list and have a few questions about what certain materials are. On the attached drawing I drew an arrow that points to a vertical board that runs from the gable truss down to the overhead door headers. Is this what the material list is calling an "overhead door king post"? I am guessing its purpose is to support the long 16' 2"x8" header? Please note that the drawing shows 4"x6" posts everywhere except the corners. That is now changed to all 6"x6" posts. Any information is greatly appreciated. I have many more questions as well but will start with this. I have never built a building before but I am about to try. I have done a bunch of research. I have the money to build the building and pay a concrete contractor to do the floor. But no way can afford the labor to set up the building. I am pretty confident that I can do it although I am sure that I will make myself look dumb to you people that know what you are doing. I already have a build permit and my town don't have any codes or requirements. They don't care about ****. I obviously still want to do it right, I just don't have to worry about any inspections or anything.
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Pole Building Framing, What's this for?
- Thread starter blair683
- Start date
tjdux
Well-known member
First off let me say im no pro but i habe built a small building and many other things. Hopefully some pros will confirm what i think.
The main purpose of that vertical beam as far as i can tell is to keep your purlins (the boards that the tin screws to) over the door stiff. Since there is no post across that 16ft door thats a long span for the purlins to cover.
Notice the rear of the building doesnt have one because no span to clear. King post may be the correct term but i dont know. I feel sometimes different guys use these terms loosely for describing stuff.
One other tip... When writing out questions hit enter to space out paragraphs... Having some breaks in the text makes it much easier to read than 1 huge block.
Good luck and keep asking questions. Hopefully we can help.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
The main purpose of that vertical beam as far as i can tell is to keep your purlins (the boards that the tin screws to) over the door stiff. Since there is no post across that 16ft door thats a long span for the purlins to cover.
Notice the rear of the building doesnt have one because no span to clear. King post may be the correct term but i dont know. I feel sometimes different guys use these terms loosely for describing stuff.
One other tip... When writing out questions hit enter to space out paragraphs... Having some breaks in the text makes it much easier to read than 1 huge block.
Good luck and keep asking questions. Hopefully we can help.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
mitusa
Well-known member
I've built a few pole barns.....I believe the above poster is correct...it is mostly used to stiffen the area above the door and also to "anchor" an automatic garage door opener (if you so choose). But I would also tie the last two or three rafter joists together with a 2x4.
Good luck on the build!
Good luck on the build!
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That makes sense, I will have to ask the supplier tomorrow what they are calling a king post. This building will have a shingle roof and osb siding. Another question I had is about the post spacing for the overhead door and man door. For the 16'x 8' overhead door should I space the posts 16' 3" to allow for a 2x on either side?
I was always told for the 36" man door to space the posts 40" to allow room for a 2x on either side and still have room to shim. Is this right? Thanks for all the information so far!
I was always told for the 36" man door to space the posts 40" to allow room for a 2x on either side and still have room to shim. Is this right? Thanks for all the information so far!
383
Well-known member
It helps straighten the door header, stiffen the wall girts, and is the mounting point for the overhead door spring.
OHD posts should be 16'3", entry door posts can be set with or without door jambs. Most Entry doors have a rough opening of 38" to 38 1/2", if using a jamb, add 3". 40" will give you 37" after the jambs are installed, my guess is that is too narrow.
OHD posts should be 16'3", entry door posts can be set with or without door jambs. Most Entry doors have a rough opening of 38" to 38 1/2", if using a jamb, add 3". 40" will give you 37" after the jambs are installed, my guess is that is too narrow.
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mitusa
Well-known member
That makes sense, I will have to ask the supplier tomorrow what they are calling a king post. This building will have a shingle roof and osb siding. Another question I had is about the post spacing for the overhead door and man door. For the 16'x 8' overhead door should I space the posts 16' 3" to allow for a 2x on either side?
I was always told for the 36" man door to space the posts 40" to allow room for a 2x on either side and still have room to shim. Is this right? Thanks for all the information so far!
The spacing on the overhead door will depend on whether you ordered a commercial or residential garage door....the width varies by a couple of inches IIRC.
The guy at the lumber store says that "he thinks" the over head king post is to support the garage door header. He said he thinks it goes on the inside of the 6x6 post and runs from the ground to the bottom of the header on each side of the door.
I payed for all the material to frame the building and put a shingle roof on it today. The material will be delivered Tuesday. I will start a build thread once I get the posts set. It will be a "build thread" and a "please help me out with information thread".
I payed for all the material to frame the building and put a shingle roof on it today. The material will be delivered Tuesday. I will start a build thread once I get the posts set. It will be a "build thread" and a "please help me out with information thread".
Marctrees
Well-known member
blair - If you shop around your list compared to totally matl and labor totally built, you may find it worth it.
Well, now I see you bought the matl.
OK, will be way more sweat than you think .
I would still have a crew that DOES SPECIFICALLY POLE BUILDINGS EVERYDAY, not just some Carp.
I have done very much DIY in my years, and NO WAY would
|I do a building like this myself, absolutely get it done by a pole building company, NO question. Marc
Well, now I see you bought the matl.
OK, will be way more sweat than you think .
I would still have a crew that DOES SPECIFICALLY POLE BUILDINGS EVERYDAY, not just some Carp.
I have done very much DIY in my years, and NO WAY would
|I do a building like this myself, absolutely get it done by a pole building company, NO question. Marc
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The cheapest quote I got was 14k not including the concrete and that's with metal sides and roof. I am not on a time frame. I am only into it $3400 now. If I can accomplish the framing part with a roof on it then I will invest the rest of the money. I have a few people that are willing to help (none have done a project this large). I luckily have no inspectors or codes to worry about. My work schedule gives me a lot of days off so I should have time. Wish me luck I suppose.
rburke65
Well-known member
Lots of you tube videos out here. Good luck
Trust me, I think I have seen them all, more then once. I have been doing a ton of research. I had an excavating company level the area. It is almost perfectly level. I work three days on and three days off. So every three days I can put a solid three days into it. My wife's a teacher so her and the kids are at school all day. Like I said, the materials to atleast get a giant car port are paid for in full and not hurting me any. If I fail then I suppose I'll mark it up to a $3400 loss.
I have posted this many times.
But this is he best online DIY pole barn "how to do it" have found
http://www.pole-barn.info/pole-building-construction.html
It will answer questions you didn't know you had.
But this is he best online DIY pole barn "how to do it" have found
http://www.pole-barn.info/pole-building-construction.html
It will answer questions you didn't know you had.
I have posted this many times before.
This is the best DIY pole barn "how to do it" I have found.
It will answer questions you didn't know you had.
http://www.pole-barn.info/pole-building-construction.html
This is the best DIY pole barn "how to do it" I have found.
It will answer questions you didn't know you had.
http://www.pole-barn.info/pole-building-construction.html
red61cj5
Well-known member
Don't let the "Don't even try to do it yourself" guys bother you. If you can figure out how to read a tape and a level, and understand the concept of "square", you can do just fine. I am sitting in a house I built and looking out at my nearly finished shop that I also built. I saved a ton of money on both. There are a million tricks, and guys on this forum know most of them collectively. One thing, if possible, cancel the shingles and go to metal roofing, its way lighter and goes on way faster. Keep asking questions, for every jerk who thinks you're dumb, 10 guys will want to help, cuz they've been there.
red61cj5
Well-known member
Oh yea, and PERMA COLUMNS, google them. worth the spend
sberry
Banned
Yes, it's there just to keep the sag out. I asked this in another post but why did they change the corners to 6x6?
Find a helper, it will make it go way faster. Someone to hand and hold, to gofor.
Find a helper, it will make it go way faster. Someone to hand and hold, to gofor.
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WNYflyer
Well-known member
Yes, it's there just to keep the sag out. I asked this in another post but why did they change the corners to 6x6?
Find a helper, it will make it go way faster. Someone to hand and hold, to gofor.
Corners are probably 6x6's so that the centerline of the corner post lines up with 6x4 post centerlines on both the bearing wall and gable ends. Perhaps a way of heading off any mistakes in the lay-out of the post as well as make framing details work out cleaner. Also the corner post are picking up wind from two directions which may require equal size/depth post in both directions.
Main function of the king post is to cut down the span of the girts above the door opening to something reasonable for the standard girt size. The king post could also be designed to pick up some of the vertical load from above the door opening and transfer it to the roof trusses or perhaps the door header is designed to span the entire opening for that load, who knows.
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Thanks everyone for the encouraging words. They originally had it designed with 6"x6"s in the corners only. I went ahead and had them change it to 6x6s for all the posts. I also have a question about auger size. My local hardware has a nice tow behind hydraulic auger that they rent out. The only problem is, the biggest auger they have is 12". My only other option is the larger equipment rental place near me. They have a good ole' two man auger but it has a 15" auger which is recommended on my building plans.
Do you think the 12" auger would be fine? I am pouring 8" of concrete in the bottom of the holes rather then buying the premade "cookies". Only issue I see with the 12" holes is the fact that it won't leave me much room for error when placing the posts in the right location. The fancy tow behind auger would be much easier and quicker to use. I even considered seeing if the 15" auger bit from the larger rental place would fit the hydraulic auger from the local hardware store. Maybe I can could talk the one rental place into just renting me the auger bit.
Sorry for the large post. Thanks for all the info!
Do you think the 12" auger would be fine? I am pouring 8" of concrete in the bottom of the holes rather then buying the premade "cookies". Only issue I see with the 12" holes is the fact that it won't leave me much room for error when placing the posts in the right location. The fancy tow behind auger would be much easier and quicker to use. I even considered seeing if the 15" auger bit from the larger rental place would fit the hydraulic auger from the local hardware store. Maybe I can could talk the one rental place into just renting me the auger bit.
Sorry for the large post. Thanks for all the info!
Radix2
Well-known member
Thanks everyone for the encouraging words. They originally had it designed with 6"x6"s in the corners only. I went ahead and had them change it to 6x6s for all the posts. I also have a question about auger size. My local hardware has a nice tow behind hydraulic auger that they rent out. The only problem is, the biggest auger they have is 12". My only other option is the larger equipment rental place near me. They have a good ole' two man auger but it has a 15" auger which is recommended on my building plans.
Do you think the 12" auger would be fine? I am pouring 8" of concrete in the bottom of the holes rather then buying the premade "cookies". Only issue I see with the 12" holes is the fact that it won't leave me much room for error when placing the posts in the right location. The fancy tow behind auger would be much easier and quicker to use. I even considered seeing if the 15" auger bit from the larger rental place would fit the hydraulic auger from the local hardware store. Maybe I can could talk the one rental place into just renting me the auger bit.
Sorry for the large post. Thanks for all the info!
What kind of soil do you have? A 15" into some good ole sticky clay is going to take some biggggg boys on a two man...if the clutch don't just slip all the time...not to mention pulling up a 15" slug from 4'
I'd try for the tow behind and bit rental..