Pole building interior finishing question - exposed posts

[stimpee]

I have done a bunch of searching and read other threads, but haven't found a direct answer so....

I am finishing up my build. It is a pole structure built on slab with scissor trusses. Build thread is in my .sig - I had spray foam "installed" yesterday, and am looking at finalizing my interior finish.

I had the ignition barrier applied to the underside of the roof, since I don't think I will get ceiling finish installed for quite a long while, if at all. If/when I do, it will be ribbed metal like the outside of the building. On the walls, I am planning to do whatever is required for interior framing to allow me to put up appropriate wall finish. I think I have discounted sheetrock (I would never finish it) and OSB (just don't like the material or the look). So I am down to either painted plywood, or interior ribbed metal oriented vertically.

It looks like the metal option would actually be cheaper, and that is not even including painting the wood if I do plywood. If I do this, I would like to fill in the bays between the posts roughly flush (maybe the ribs would stand into the space a bit), and leave the posts exposed to break up the long walls. I just think it would look a bit nicer. Also, it would "intrude" into the interior space a bit less. One complicating factor is I need to install "interior girts" which will require blocking on the posts for support, vs just slapping them onto the inside of the posts if I covered the posts with the metal. Clear as mud?

Wondering if anyone has any thoughts or advice, or better yet any PICTURES of interior metal with exposed posts? I can find TONS of interior shots with nice clean un-interrupted metal walls. But haven't seen any with exposed interior posts.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[pinebarkauto]

I understand what you are trying to do, and yes, it would be look nicer with exposed post. However, think ahead to wiring, plumbing for air, lighting, etc. What do you have in mind for these? Unless you plan to install behind the panels, the trouble you go to in order to expose the post would seem wasted. My pole building is done with metal ribbed panels and all wiring in metal conduit surface mounted. I went to a metal company and ordered "liner panels" in specific lengths and did very little cutting other than the trim pieces. Ceiling panels were sized to span two trusses (7.5 feet on my Morton building I think) and I screwed them to the bottoms of the trusses and installed in a running bond pattern. I put sheet plastic between the panels and the trusses, then blew insulation in on top. The white panels really make the shop bright.

 

[iagsxr]

I would want my walls as free of protrusions as possible.

My shop is all steel lined. I have said that if I ever build another one I'm going to do the bottom 3-4' in OSB or plywood just because I don't like things bumping the walls and damaging the steel.

 

[Dreamer1975]

I used 1/2 plywood 8ft up and painted it. I did all my my electric prior to because I did not want to run conduit along the walls. It also allows me to mount things or the walls. Plan to do metal the rest of the way at some point. The plywood and paint may have been an extra expense but it was worth it to me to not have to run conduit around the building.

 

[78SC4X4]

I only did the highbay above 8' this way. But here's some pics.

 

[stimpee]

Thanks for the thoughts and ideas.

I did significant electrical prior to insulating, so that is basically all covered up at this point. I will be adding a few other things such as wiring for the boiler, and probably a few welder outlets, compressor wiring, etc at some point though. I could take things off the walls and run it behind the metal/wood at that point. However if I do keep the posts visible, I would have to run thru the posts, or more likely would run everything high, and then run down the inside of the wall.

I haven't figured out compressed air piping yet though.

One rub is that my electrician ran conduit down the SIDE of the posts and put my quad boxes on the sides of the posts, with the outer edge flush with the outer edge of the post. So when I do the walls, I am going to have to cut openings large enough to allow me to plug stuff in from the side. And I will likely try to find a way to "box" those cutouts a bit so they don't look too crappy. Maybe some bent metal/plastic flanges, or perhaps I will design some parts that I can print on the 3D printer to finish it out. The reality is that the way the conduit is run, if I put 2x4s coming into the side of the posts to attach to, they will have to be flush with the outside of the post anyway due to the conduit. So it looks like I am going to end up just covering up the posts anyway.

Live and learn I guess. I didn't specifically tell him to put the boxes on the FACE of the posts. So he did it in a way that made perfect sense prior to insulating and covering the inside. I wasn't planning to put wood or metal internally for quite some time, but the ignition barrier cost on the foam would have been nearly as much as lining the building, so figured I would just move forward on that now.

I may also consider the possibility of plywood for the bottom 4' for durability, not sure on that.

 

[billconner]

I have different tastes but were it me, I'd look at horizontal boards across faces of columns. Easy to attach to, hinged piece for outlets, will span with minimal additional framing. Use rough sawn and it's about as inexpensive as possible.

Just a different look. Personally, I find the metal liner panel a little aniseptic, but tastes vary.

 

[stimpee]

I have different tastes but were it me, I'd look at horizontal boards across faces of columns. Easy to attach to, hinged piece for outlets, will span with minimal additional framing. Use rough sawn and it's about as inexpensive as possible.

Just a different look. Personally, I find the metal liner panel a little aniseptic, but tastes vary.

Interesting option. Not sure where to look to find rough sawn wood that would do this. Would certainly be straightforward to install and would require no real framing to add.

Any recommendations for sources that would service Middle Tn?

 

[Mikeske]

I used free OSB t1-11 style exterior siding installed 10 feet up then painted it white. I first installed all the wiring including a couple 220v electrical outlet then put the siding on.

I hate gray paint as a lot of folks like that look but for me after over 45 years in a industrial setting I went to white as it reflects light better

 

[1320stang]

How about the bottom 4' or 8' in Hardi-panel? Won't catch fire.

What are your poles in your pole barn. Typically around here (Oklahoma) a pole barn has 6x6 poles or sometimes used power line poles. A Morton building is the only one I know that laminates posts around here.

 

[Natty Bumppo]

I did 1x10" horizontal rough sawn shiplap pine from the ground up to 8'...then painted OSB from 8' up to 12'. I like the rustic, low maintenance look of the pine. No seams. No paint. Goes up quickly. Also makes a nice surface to add hangers or hooks anywhere you want that don't require a stud. The OSB on top breaks up the 12' wall a bit...makes a nice background for signs, lights, etc. if you're into that.

 

[billconner]

Any recommendations for sources that would service Middle Tn?

Are there Amish communities in TN? I have several and buying all lumber for a garage from one 5 miles away.

Google says Ethridge TN? Basic problem in that they are hard to find on internet because of their non-use of technology.

Found this: https://www.makefromwood.com/complete-list-of-sawmills-in-tennessee-tn-near-me/

How many sq ft?

 

[stimpee]

Are there Amish communities in TN? I have several and buying all lumber for a garage from one 5 miles away.

Google says Ethridge TN? Basic problem in that they are hard to find on internet because of their non-use of technology.

Found this: https://www.makefromwood.com/complete-list-of-sawmills-in-tennessee-tn-near-me/

How many sq ft?

I know there are some Amish areas south of Nashville just have to look again. And also a lot over the border in southern KY. I grew up in York County PA, so I am used to having them around, and forgot about that route!

I would say my total wall coverage - minus the garage doors, man doors and windows is just a hair over 1800sqft.

 

[billconner]

It's 50 cents a board foot around here. Just went up from 45 cents. And every board is 6 to 18" longer than priced - almost built in 10% extra. Mess around with some spline or means to splice where it ends, not just on poles, less waste and better looking IMHO.