Pole Building vs Steel vs Framed

[JamieK]

Searched the archives and didn't really see any definitive threads on this subject. What are the pros and cons of pole buildings, steel buildings, and traditional framed garages? Size wise looking at a 2 1/2 or 3 car garage.

Thanks,
Jamie

 

[ddawg16]

For most guys, cost if the big factor.....

I believe Metal and Pole are close in price.....

From the outside, there is not a whole lot of difference in looks....inside is a big difference....

With a framed garage it's a lot easier to finish....so if you want a nice finished look....go framed.....if you don't mind the semi raw look inside, then metal or pole.

In your area, it does not get that cold, but it does get warm and humid....that could cause rust issues with metal....

 

[tdkkart]

Most people are drawn in by the low material and construction costs of a pole building, only to find later that they end up spending alot of money to finish out the inside.

Ask me how I know, I'm in the middle of finishing one out now.
Trusses are on 8' centers, how do you hang a ceiling?? Yep, lots of lumber. Walls are posts on 8' centers with horizontal "studs" on 30" centers. Got to add more lumber in order to insulate and sheet the walls too.

 

[Packard V8]

For unheated storage, a pole building is the most cost-effective.
For heated storage with a lot of attic storage room or headroom for hoists, a metal-spine-truss building has advantages.
For DIY-built, heated, finished shop space, with a exterior to match a house, a conventional stick framed structure is best for most of us.

thnx, jack vines

thnx, jack vines

 

[luvair]

I was going through the same decision myself and found stick build best for me. The steel that does not really rust is a good solution for high ceilings, and a quick build. The downside to me was the exterior look (to my home), cost to finish properly inside for my needs and they may be another expense to hang items like tire racks.

For pole, it boiled down to finishing inside and your exterior preference. I found the height inside was shortened with pole over stick built as stick built can be easily customized to fit my specific needs, downside is it will take 8 weeks to complete.

Suggest also communicating with Morton, Wick, other building companies to better understand what they can offer you.

Good luck.

 

[krooser]

You can avoid the extra cost of inside framing by specing a pole building that's "flush finished" on the inside. Then you simply use 48" fiberglass for insulation and 4X8 panels... very easy and cheap "relatively speaking"...

The 2X6 sidewall girts are layed horizontally on end 48" OC. You finish the interior with the panels also layed horizontally...you don't need to construct any inside walls.

I've never had any problems with rust on my steel panels. My building was used and I moved it 25 miles and re-erected it on my site (smaller in size than original). there are millions of steel buildings in this country and I've only seen a few, mostly farm and industrial buildings, that have rust problems. My steel is over 25 years old and I repainted it in 1996 with latex house paint and it still looks great.

http://www.justbarns.com/newbuildings/sectionview.pdf

http://hansenpolebuildings.com/pdfs/Hansen_Pole_Buildings_Product_Guide_2008.pdf

 

[_Charles_]

Well, along the same lines, what would be an appropriate cost comparison?

i.e.:
If pole = x
and steel = x
is Frame? = 1.5x

did i confuse anybody?

 

[knudsen]

Your local DIY store may have a computer setup to calculate materials cost for a "kit" based on size and construction type. Menards does.

As I understand, one of the big savings on pole construction is you just need a concrete slab, no real foundation, and the cement costs half the price. If you already have a foundation, you would probably be better off with metal or stick.

 

[Gary S]

As I understand, one of the big savings on pole construction is you just need a concrete slab, no real foundation, and the cement costs half the price. If you already have a foundation, you would probably be better off with metal or stick.

You don't need a fancy foundation for a stick built garage either. Mine is on a floating slab with the edges thickened and rebarred to meet building code. This is actually what the inspectors here recommend.