pole quote review

[jpcjguy]

Hi all,

So I am getting some quotes on a 40 wide by 30 deep pole building with 12' inside height for lift down the road

This is one quote I received:
30' width x 40' length x 12' inside height
Roof System: 4' o/c trusses Pitch: 4/12 Loading: 30-5-5 standard
8' o/c TR 3-ply 2X6 load-bearing columns with uplift protection
Siding: 29 Gauge Painted Steel
100' of 3' Wainscoting (lineal ft) siding (front and sides - not back 40')
Roofing type: 29 Gauge Painted Steel
12" Boxed overhang on 2-sides & 2-gables
1320 sq ft of 4" Concrete floor Inside Building with 36" apron accross front
2 - 12 x 10 Overhead Doors Vinyl-backed insulation
1 - 3'x 6'8" Residential Fiberglass Entry Door(s)
Engineered Plans
Delivery to Zone #3
This building erected on your level site: $33,730.00


So what questions should I be asking for more detail on this?
A couple right off the bat are:
What psi is the concrete? does it include fiber?
What is the base of gravel thickness under the concrete?
What is the brand/R-value of the overhead doors?

I trying to learn more about Pole as opposed to stick to save some money upfront - even if I end up framing it inside down the road depending if I end up using it a lot.....

I also did a quote on DIY polebarns website and came to a quote of 15,189 for the same building less concrete. I recommended installer from DIY down in Greensboro, NC (I am in Richmond, VA) told me for a two overhead door and 1 man door with no windows to estimate 50% of the kit price for install cost. So that is $7750 to set it up. I priced local concrete at 142.50/yard for 4000psi with fiber. I figure 17 yards with apron. So that is $2500 for just concrete and was told $1 square foot to finish it (minimal forming needed) - so that is another $1320 roughly. Comes to $26,759 - or about $7000 less.

I am taking electrical out of the equation as that will be it's own monster....

What other factors am I not thinking about?

Thanks,
Joe

 

[MrSurly]

First, what are the requirements, allowances in your area? City inspections? County? Engineering drawings required?
Setbacks? Restrictions?
Those are the basics.
If there are no authorities to deal with or permits required then let’s consider design and materials.
How deep do your posts need to be set?
On the posts please nite that “treated” is not good enough.
For structural, permanent foundation use,
The posts need to be (you should demand) they be treated to “UC4B” or better. Home Depot and Lowes CVO not sell *any* treated posts that meet this.
They sell UC4a which is “ground contact” and NOT up to the task. Both your posts AND your skirt board should be UC4B.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kd3pc]

4" may not be enough to support a lift?

No insulation? With a metal building, it will be tough to insulate later on, unless spray foam.

Is your lot level within a few inches, if not, what is the cost and who prepares the site? What about compaction and fill material, who and to what standard.

In VA, engineered plans may not pass local AHJ requirements. I would have them change this to plans required to permit construction.

I would chase estimates from NN and Greensboro, especially some of the mennonite guys. We just completed two residential garages on the Northern Neck (NN) and both were delayed almost 3 months waiting on the commercial and big guys needing trusses, we were low on the list for production.

 

[346ci]

I think your concrete costs are low. Have you priced steel? I'm going to have a 40x40x14 for $38,000. No plumbing or electricity included.

 

[jpcjguy]

First, what are the requirements, allowances in your area? City inspections? County? Engineering drawings required?
Setbacks? Restrictions?
Those are the basics.
If there are no authorities to deal with or permits required then let’s consider design and materials.
How deep do your posts need to be set?
On the posts please nite that “treated” is not good enough.
For structural, permanent foundation use,
The posts need to be (you should demand) they be treated to “UC4B” or better. Home Depot and Lowes CVO not sell *any* treated posts that meet this.
They sell UC4a which is “ground contact” and NOT up to the task. Both your posts AND your skirt board should be UC4B.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will follow up with the county on what is needed for pole construction. Luckily, my county is pretty flexible and easy to work with for the most part.
As for setbacks, that is not an issue as I have plenty of space on my 2 acre lot. County says 5 feet from the back and side and I am planning on 15-20 from back and side.

 

[jpcjguy]

I think your concrete costs are low. Have you priced steel? I'm going to have a 40x40x14 for $38,000. No plumbing or electricity included.

What aspect is low? the finishing part? the cost per yard is what the concrete supplier quoted me today.
Is your building a stick or pole? what "extra" finishes do you have (windows, extra doors, etc.?)

 

[jpcjguy]

4" may not be enough to support a lift?

No insulation? With a metal building, it will be tough to insulate later on, unless spray foam.

Is your lot level within a few inches, if not, what is the cost and who prepares the site? What about compaction and fill material, who and to what standard.

In VA, engineered plans may not pass local AHJ requirements. I would have them change this to plans required to permit construction.

I would chase estimates from NN and Greensboro, especially some of the mennonite guys. We just completed two residential garages on the Northern Neck (NN) and both were delayed almost 3 months waiting on the commercial and big guys needing trusses, we were low on the list for production.

Looking at bendpak site for a 9K lift they require 3.5" min of 2500psi concrete, for a 14K lift, it is 4" min of 2500psi.
Challenger lift 10k requires 4" 3500psi. So I think I am good there.

As for insulation, I am still needing to learn there - what should I do to set myself up for possibly framing and insulating later......

The site is lawn and "optically" level. I will need to doublecheck but I can't see it being too much of a hassle to level and smooth. In the attached pic, it would be where the shed is. there is a slope that ends at the left side of the playset and then the ground "levels off".

 

[Walter_TA]

My 30 X 40 took 36 yards of concrete. I made it 10 inches deep where the lift is. I had 8 piers which added a yard each, along with a thickened edge. I did the forms for the concrete, and all the stone and leveling. They charged my 8500 for concrete and finishing. The concrete had fiber and remesh.

 

[Pechinger]

Commercial girts will cost more up front but save you from framing the inside later, and allow 24inch batts off insulation.

 

[b-boy]

Hi all,

So I am getting some quotes on a 40 wide by 30 deep pole building with 12' inside height for lift down the road

This is one quote I received:
30' width x 40' length x 12' inside height
Roof System: 4' o/c trusses Pitch: 4/12 Loading: 30-5-5 standard
8' o/c TR 3-ply 2X6 load-bearing columns with uplift protection
Siding: 29 Gauge Painted Steel
100' of 3' Wainscoting (lineal ft) siding (front and sides - not back 40')
Roofing type: 29 Gauge Painted Steel
12" Boxed overhang on 2-sides & 2-gables
1320 sq ft of 4" Concrete floor Inside Building with 36" apron accross front
2 - 12 x 10 Overhead Doors Vinyl-backed insulation
1 - 3'x 6'8" Residential Fiberglass Entry Door(s)
Engineered Plans
Delivery to Zone #3
This building erected on your level site: $33,730.00


So what questions should I be asking for more detail on this?
A couple right off the bat are:
What psi is the concrete? does it include fiber?
What is the base of gravel thickness under the concrete?
What is the brand/R-value of the overhead doors?

I trying to learn more about Pole as opposed to stick to save some money upfront - even if I end up framing it inside down the road depending if I end up using it a lot.....

I also did a quote on DIY polebarns website and came to a quote of 15,189 for the same building less concrete. I recommended installer from DIY down in Greensboro, NC (I am in Richmond, VA) told me for a two overhead door and 1 man door with no windows to estimate 50% of the kit price for install cost. So that is $7750 to set it up. I priced local concrete at 142.50/yard for 4000psi with fiber. I figure 17 yards with apron. So that is $2500 for just concrete and was told $1 square foot to finish it (minimal forming needed) - so that is another $1320 roughly. Comes to $26,759 - or about $7000 less.

I am taking electrical out of the equation as that will be it's own monster....

What other factors am I not thinking about?

Thanks,
Joe

I just completed a very similar build last year. Only difference is I have 1 16'x9' overhead door. I also have an 8ft overhang (lean-to?) that runs the length of the building (40ft). I have concrete under that as well.

Your numbers are pretty close to what I paid.

My costs were:

• Building - ~25k
• Concrete - ~9k (This included a lot of fill, leveling, and compressing.)

 

[matt_i]

For structural, permanent foundation use,
The posts need to be (you should demand) they be treated to “UC4B” or better. Home Depot and Lowes CVO not sell *any* treated posts that meet this.
They sell UC4a which is “ground contact” and NOT up to the task. Both your posts AND your skirt board should be UC4B.

I would like to underscore this excellent point! Verify the stapled tags on the wood yourself.

 

[77Birdman]

Original price doesn't seem out of line. My guess is that although concrete is figured, they have nothing in it for fill/sub grade stone under the slab itself. Most of the lifts I have been looking at spec a min. of 4" concrete with steel reinforcement (re-bar). 4" @ 3500 psi is more than adequate for a slab and for the most part anything more is overkill and a waste of money. I used to build fire houses and we would routinely pour the slabs at 6" without any problems.
Insulation isn't a problem, just need to find the right stuff, but that will come along later.
Here are a couple pics of my barn im just getting finished. 2018-09-04_02-50-16 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
2018-09-04_02-51-45 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
2018-06-18_10-48-48 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr

 

[346ci]

What aspect is low? the finishing part? the cost per yard is what the concrete supplier quoted me today.
Is your building a stick or pole? what "extra" finishes do you have (windows, extra doors, etc.?)

If no footers are required, it might not be far off.

Mine is red iron, the quotes I got for stick built were a few grand higher so that made for an easy decision. No windows, one 12x12 door and a entry door.

 

[Marctrees]

jpc- Overall, that's a pretty fair price.

Marc

 

[jpcjguy]

Original price doesn't seem out of line. My guess is that although concrete is figured, they have nothing in it for fill/sub grade stone under the slab itself. Most of the lifts I have been looking at spec a min. of 4" concrete with steel reinforcement (re-bar). 4" @ 3500 psi is more than adequate for a slab and for the most part anything more is overkill and a waste of money. I used to build fire houses and we would routinely pour the slabs at 6" without any problems.
Insulation isn't a problem, just need to find the right stuff, but that will come along later.
Here are a couple pics of my barn im just getting finished.

Good point on the fill/sub grade stone - that needs to be accounted for also. Good looking garage!

 

[theoldwizard1]

First, I highly recommend you watch this series of videos RR Building - How to Build a Garage

On the surface, your quote sounds similar, but I am sure it is not ! If you have questions that you want resolved your way, make your own contract addendum and PUT IT IN WRITING ! I doubt that your contractor would use all the methods shown in that series of video, but the one I like the most is purlins stood on edge, not laid flat.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Most of the lifts I have been looking at spec a min. of 4" concrete with steel reinforcement (re-bar). 4" @ 3500 psi is more than adequate for a slab and for the most part anything more is overkill and a waste of money.

If the lift manufacturer does not call for it, rebar is also overkill !

Wire mesh/screen is worthwhile just to help protect against cracks.

I used to build fire houses and we would routinely pour the slabs at 6" without any problems.

Sure. 6" slab with rebar for heavy equipment.

 

[Piggywutz]

Seems a little high to me. My 30x40 was 21,000. I am only 10' high not 12', but don't think that 2' would be an extra 12k.

 

[jpcjguy]

Seems a little high to me. My 30x40 was 21,000. I am only 10' high not 12', but don't think that 2' would be an extra 12k.

Nice building! So that is 21k for the building without concrete?

 

[SkeeterZX200]

I am building a 30x60x14 with a 8x12 overhang, (2) 12x12 doors, (1) 8x7 door, 2 man doors, 4 windows, and 6" concrete. The price is $52,000 installed.

 

[Marctrees]

Seems a little high to me. My 30x40 was 21,000. I am only 10' high not 12', but don't think that 2' would be an extra 12k.

OP has concrete included in his price.

Marc

 

[Piggywutz]

Nice building! So that is 21k for the building without concrete?

Included 4" fiber mesh concrete and 3 10' wide insulated overhead doors.

 

[Piggywutz]

Concrete

 

[Piggywutz]

Doors

 

[Marctrees]

Piggy - If that's the case, somehow, you got the steal of the year.

You would do GJ a favor by posting the contractor's contact info.



Marc

 

[Piggywutz]

Piggy - If that's the case, somehow, you got the steal of the year.

You would do GJ a favor by posting the contractor's contact info.



Marc

No problem. Here is who I used. Very nice work. Very good price. Would definitely recommend if you are in PA.

 

[Piggywutz]

Here is my quote with all the info if it helps anyone.

 

[Piggywutz]

Bottom line. Building was quoted in November of 2016 and constructed January of 2017.

 

[jpcjguy]

Thanks for the info Piggywutz!
If only I could get someone to build one for me for even close to that price around here!!

 

[sweetk30]

wow no one said it yet . . .

make sure you look at the popular brands of 2 post lifts .

the bare min is skimming 12ft just to install a 2 post lift in the 9-10k category.

my shop was already built and lift in . lets just say the 12ft height is DAM tight . i cant even get a 1/4" thick piece of metal between the top of the posts and drywall .

go 13ft or 14ft in the lift section .

my shop is 50ft wide . the first 18ft is the lift bay . then it drops down to 9ft 6" for the whole rest of the shop . i kind of like it this way my self .

 

[jpcjguy]

wow no one said it yet . . .

make sure you look at the popular brands of 2 post lifts .

the bare min is skimming 12ft just to install a 2 post lift in the 9-10k category.

my shop was already built and lift in . lets just say the 12ft height is DAM tight . i cant even get a 1/4" thick piece of metal between the top of the posts and drywall .

go 13ft or 14ft in the lift section .

my shop is 50ft wide . the first 18ft is the lift bay . then it drops down to 9ft 6" for the whole rest of the shop . i kind of like it this way my self .

excellent point! I plan on scissor truss so that would not be an issue!

 

[sweetk30]

o.k. just making sure before you go ........ oh ****