PoleBarn Ceiling Insulation Strapping?

[JPinSTL]

I scored 3 rolls of vinyl faced 4in x 6ft x 75ft insulation off Craigslist for cheap. This stuff is usually $300/roll and I paid $50ea. My goal is no condensation rain, not R30. I fire up the torpedo if I have a big project, but mainly use the existinginsulated work room with the wood stove for small projects in the winter.

My pole barn is already built, roofs on, etc. So how do I install this? My trusses are on 10ft centers with 2x4 purlins that are on 2ft centers. The old part of the shop is 24x40 with a 12x40 closed in leanto across the back. So I'm thinking cut this into 6x10 bats that I run parallel to my purlins and then tape the seams so I would need 6 batts per bay or 24 total.

My concern is if I hang this under the purlins using cap nails with the purlins on 2ft centers the insulation will not fluff enough to fill the cavities between the purlins. Is this an issue? DO I need to put other batts (no money for this right now) between the purlins? Then roll the vinyl faced over the purlins?

Are cap nails the way to go? I can source nylon webbing used for hanging flex duct locally. Will the strapping hold up over time? I was thinking to use the nylon strapping with the cap nails.

Looking around online I also see steel strapping used. Would I be better off to use the steel strapping? If i used the steel I could run it at the bottom of the 2x6 that is the top chord of the truss and just lay the batts like a blanket on top of the strapping. But will the strapping span 10ft with out sagging? I could run a 2x2 perpendicular to the purlins in line with the trusses at 5ft and make the batts 5x6 not 10x6 so the strapping is only spanning 5ft?

 

[TheEquineFencer]

I'm not sure if this helps, but I just hung some insulation with some "pins" I got from an HVAC supplier. They stick to the metal, you push the insulation over them and then a "button" presses over the pin to hold the insulation in place.

 

[Firebrick43]

Does your pole barn have eave vents as most do? Why not just bite the bullet and put up a ceiling. The results not only while heating but during the summer will be drastic. Then the insulation can be set on top of the ceiling between the trusses.

I don't know where you are but Menards here has barn lining for less than a dollar a square foot

 

[JPinSTL]

I've seen the pins. My concern is the insulation being compressed at the purlins and not filling the spaces between. Is this an issue? I'm concerned about moisture/mold/etc in this cavity? The goal primarily is a condensation blanket, I'll be heating infrequently with a salamander and a wood furnace on the weekends.

I've thought about a ceiling at 12ft. The original shop area is 24x40 with a 12ft below the truss ceiling height. One end of that is a 14x24x9ft tall "work room" that is insulated and has a storage loft above it. So if I go 12ft for the ceiling everywhere I lose use of the loft. The loft is 16x24, a decent sized area about 3ft at the eves and almost 6ft in the center. I guess I could treat the loft differently but all the heat will end up there if so.

The trusses are on 10ft center. If I mount a ceiling to the bottom chord additional framing will be required plus the weight of the ceiling liner and insulation. Not sure these trusses are up to that?

No gable vents and the ridge is not currently sealed. Just the cap screwed down. Once I insulated I'd planned to mount some exhaust fan shutters in the gables.