PoleBarn shop Question

[LukeOresk]

Hey, my shop is a polebarn with large
corrugated sheets to make up the exterior. Because of this the corrugated pieces leave a gap in some spots at the ground allowing mice to get it. I was going to put gravel against it but I thought there might be a better idea.

Thanks

 

[LukeOresk]

Here’s a picture of what I’m working with

 

[billconner]

A lot of pole barn companies include a rat board just for this - a 2x8 or similar pt wall girt. I'm going to guess you poured your slab to top of that girt.

ps: to your point https://microship.com/rodents-pole-building/

 

[Skooterj]

Should have had some kind of base trim when it was built. Sliding it behind isn't impossible, but your spray foam is going to create an issue.

A lot of pole barn companies include a rat board just for this - a 2x8 or similar pt wall girt. I'm going to guess you poured your slab to top of that girt.

ps: to your point https://microship.com/rodents-pole-building/

I can see the wood sill board below the edge of the metal. But with those large ridges, mice will just climb between the metal and the wood and into the building. Need a way to seal the openings in the metal.

 

[billconner]

the op photo shows a very deep siding with a lot of mouse entry space. Looking at other metal siding, it seems to be much "flatter". The metal Z in that last photo seems like the right answer.

 

[LukeOresk]

I didn’t build this pole barn or I would have done a few things differently to say the least lol, what issue can come of the spray foam?

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I didn’t build this pole barn or I would have done a few things differently to say the least lol, what issue can come of the spray foam?

It will make it difficult to install the lower flashing/trim piece behind the siding. Usually that would be installed before the corrugated sheets.
BTW: It is also common to install a foam strip that fills the gaps in the steel.

Many pole parn are built as a simple structure to protect equipment from weather but not to have a finished interior. It isn't uncommon to leave them like yours is.

 

[Skooterj]

You are probably going to have to loosed the bottom screw on the siding and tip the z-channel up against the grade board, or remove the corner trim and slide it in from the end. Either way, you need to pull the siding away from the grade board. The spray foam will likely make it very difficult to pull the siding away from the grade board since it has probably glued the siding and wood together. You need something solid to close the ridges in your metal. Might see if you can dig out enough to slide a 4x4 all the way around the perimeter below the metal, screwing through the 4x4 into the grade board and posts. But whatever you put there needs to be deep enough to cover those ridges, and tight against them. I might still put a piece of steel trim on top of a 4x4 like the z-flashing.

 

[mattmountz94]

Try what Skooter said or make a L with a hem on either side for stiffness. Maybe 1"-1.5" high on the face of panel and then make the return the depth of the corrugation. Pop rivet or fasteners through the L into the face of the corrugated panel. You could also get fancy and remove some stone and make it a Z. 1" on Face, return the depth of corrugation and then return down the wood 1". Fasten on wood and metal face.

 

[NUTTSGT]

How about a picture of what you have on the inside at the base of the wall ?

 

[mikedodge]

My pole barn has a 1-2 foot wall of wood slats around the base to help keep the weather and rodents out. Some still do dig under it but it's better then having the metal siding just stop at the base.

 

[LukeOresk]

This is how deep the corrugated is. I’m going to take a good look tomorrow and dig some out to see what I have to deal with. Someone decided to nail most of the sheets in place so that’ll be fun.

I’m hoping timber mart will have what I need, they had the best pricing for steel roofing

 

[LukeOresk]

How about a picture of what you have on the inside at the base of the wall ?

The inside wall is skinned with above ground pool shells. I could peel one back if necessary

 

[Skooterj]

I had an idea about avoiding most of the spray foam. You will still need to cut off any below the bottom of the siding. But you could screw a angle iron BELOW the siding running up and out.. You might need to dig out an inch or so around the whole grade board, but wouldn't need to loosen the siding at all. Most metal roofing companies make custom bent trim. Have 2 inches on the grade board, then out the 4 inches you need, then a small turn down drip edge. Sheet metal screws into the grade board.

 

[LukeOresk]

Ok that’s good news, hopefully I’ll got to timber mart tomorrow to see what they can do.

Angle iron wouldn’t be bad but I need 4” angle, and my shop is 24x32, I don’t think I want to know what that would cost with steel prices right now. Maybe I’ll be shocked at the trim price any way

 

[Skooterj]

If you have it made out of coil stock, it shouldn't be that expensive. You do not need anything thick, it just has to close off the ridges tightly. I might even caulk it to the ridges. I know my local steal shop can make a custom trim bend out of coil stock for a reasonable cost. They can even do long pieces. For you, I would do 12 foot trim on the 24 side, and 8 or 16 on the 32 side. Minus any doors. I drew something like I was thinking. My art skill ****.

 

[LukeOresk]

Man thank you for thinking about this so much for me. I’m hopefully going to make it to the supplier today but I have to get my life together and have a few other things to do before nights

 

[LukeOresk]

And if you have to cut any of this material, use tin snips? Or a grinder?

 

[racecougar]

Tin snips will handle trim coil handily.

 

[oldcars]

While my buildings have all been standard "delta rib" type material, not the 4" deep corrugations like yours, I have had good luck with contacting a local metal roofing/ siding manufacture and getting some sheet metal "angle iron" custom made. It wasn't very expensive, way less than buying actual angle iron. I then screwed it on the bottom to cover the gaps, and then mixed up bagged concrete and used a garden trowel to fill up the bottom couple inches of the ribs from the inside before I insulated and paneled.

 

[ed_v]

Edit

Re-read and looked at photo. Follow the suggestions above. Good luck.

Ed

 

[LukeOresk]

So I stopped by timber mart, the woman at the counter was helpful and said come back with measurements of exactly what I want and they can price it and order it in. So hopefully Friday I’ll have my dad come over and measure it out to be sure and I’ll drop off the measurements.

 

[Skooterj]

You can try to match the color, but plain galvanized is probably cheaper.

 

[LukeOresk]

I ordered material to get this done, painted was five dollars more than gav so I went with painted. They said it’ll be ready in about a week. If the weather holds out I’ll get it installed this year, if not early spring

 

[LukeOresk]

Took longer than I wanted to get this done but I’ll be done before winter, thanks for giving me the idea how to easily add the drip edge.

 

[toyotadriver]

Very nice!! That should solve your issues.

That is commercial grade siding. Is the building a metal frame or what?