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polishing mild steel

bouldermsm

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Joined
Apr 7, 2010
Messages
46
Hey Folks,

I have welded, sanded and degreased some steel shelving frames. The GF wants the 'industrial look' and is asking if I can brighten up the sheen. She likes to tooling and swirl marks so I am really just trying to polish/shine them more than anything.

I have searched some and there is a lot of info/products for stainless but nothing that mentions raw steel. In reality, what I have done thus far actually produced a very stainless like look but I don't know metalurgy well enough to suggest a finish. It sure looks like 3M and Scotchbrite will be part of the solution. I have all the grinders/buffers needed and I am just trying to skip a few of the trial and error steps if anyone has some experience. I have even thought of a Rustoleum type clear gloss instead of a buffed product? Just to be clear, this is cleaned, raw carbon mild steel that has been rough grit sanded with an angle grinder to remove the scale (and knock down my fugly welds).

I have a few pics, just to give you an idea of the current state of finish and the inventory of work ahead of me.

thanks in advance.
 

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Big-Foot

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Jan 30, 2005
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Midlothian, TX
You can use a high build clear coat directly on the steel, but it will darken it slightly..

I've done exactly what you are talking about and had good results...
 
OP
B

bouldermsm

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the wood shelves are under mounted and planed flush.

I am not sure what the high build clear is. Is it a rolled or sprayed product?
 
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machine_punk

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May 14, 2011
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Napa Valley, California
I use the 3M ROLOC style surface finishing discs. Used with a 90-degree air grinder (don't even try it with a drill...trust me on this). The pics below are 2" discs, but I have 3" discs now too. I use this all the time for aluminum, but should work on steel too.

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View media item 13256
I get them at my local auto parts store. I'd recommend getting a few discs locally to try different 'grits,' then order a case (50) of the discs online that you decide to use. There are definitely 'off-brand' versions of this for about half the price, but I've only ever used the real 3M version, with good results. If you've got a compressor, but no 1/4" 90-degree air grinder, I'd recommend the $25 unit from HF. I've had good results with them (not the cheaper ones, though).

For that matter, you could go get a case of Scotchbrite pads (the rectangular ones) and use the old 'elbow grease' method. I'd start with the 'red' Scotchbrites for steel. I use the gray ones for putting the final finish on aluminum all the time.

These aren't going to 'shine' the metal, though. At best, they put a very fine satin finish (even out the scratch marks). You will have to buff beyond these discs, if you really want a shine (or try the Scotchbrite EXL wheel, as mentioned above).

Kev
 
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Big-Foot

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Jan 30, 2005
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Location
Midlothian, TX
It will rust right under the clear. May as well keep it bare and plan to always keep after it.

Mine hasn't rusted at all and is in a wet environment (shower)...

So how do you figure that a clear paint with no pigment will allow steel to rust any more than if it were painted with a pigmented color?
 

gte718p

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Mar 12, 2009
Messages
3,977
It will rust right under the clear. May as well keep it bare and plan to always keep after it.

If you do it righ it shouldn't rust. Rusting is a chemical reaction that requires O2. If your clear sea sit like it should no rust.
 
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