Polyaspartic Brand Recommendations?

[Gore]

Can someone please recommend a reliable brand (or a link) of polyaspartic coating.

My floor was done and I want to redo the topcoat because the flakes are too pronounced.

I will be grinding/sanding it first fwiw.

 

[BillK]

I cant recommend a specific product but i have always tried to stick with products from the same manufacturer when doing any type of coatings. I would use the same brand that you have on the floor now.

 

[Gore]

I agree with you, and that is the goal but also the problem.

The installer tells me that "I can't buy the product, only pros," and wants to be the one to get it, and then do the work. He is a great guy, but I hate having to go through a middleman, and with my schedule I can't find a perfect time to have him come out. I just want to have it on hand when I get the time and do the work myself.

 

[Shea]

I agree with you, and that is the goal but also the problem.

The installer tells me that "I can't buy the product, only pros," and wants to be the one to get it, and then do the work. He is a great guy, but I hate having to go through a middleman, and with my schedule I can't find a perfect time to have him come out. I just want to have it on hand when I get the time and do the work myself.

You need to be careful about what type of polyaspartic you apply. Many of the Pros use 100% solids due to the fast cure rate. The problem with that for the average DIYer is that the pot life is only 15-20 minutes. It becomes unworkable before they can get it all rolled out.

I recommend using a lower solids product so you get a longer pot life. These are typically available from online vendors such as those who participate on this forum. Here is an example of one that is 80% solids with a 30-35 minute pot life.

 

[MrFreeze]

I had a pro do mine, so comments from Shea may apply, but I have been very happy with the results. Still looking good after 6 years. Here's what went into my floor:



Here's what is looks like.



Good luck with yours,
MrFreeze

 

[NUTTSGT]

Thread closed for now. @Ryan can reopen as he sees fits.

I find this subject matter troubling as to how/when it surfaced.


EDIT: Thread reopened for OP.

 

[Gore]

You need to be careful about what type of polyaspartic you apply. Many of the Pros use 100% solids due to the fast cure rate. The problem with that for the average DIYer is that the pot life is only 15-20 minutes. It becomes unworkable before they can get it all rolled out.

I recommend using a lower solids product so you get a longer pot life. These are typically available from online vendors such as those who participate on this forum. Here is an example of one that is 80% solids with a 30-35 minute pot life.

That makes total sense. In my situation I am just going to do one section (at the control joints) at a time. It's roughly 10'x13', so I should be OK. I did an epoxy floor a while back so I have some experience in doing a floor, not that the 2 products are necessarily the same.

Thank you all for your recommendations, I'll post back here when I get started. It's the "carbon" color flake fwiw and I think it'll turn out great once it's done.

 

[Gore]

So just a heads up when trying to re-top a flake floor it is almost impossible to properly abrade the surface without digging into your flakes. If you do not get all of the shine off of your existing coating through sanding before you go for you next coat you will be risking serious delamination in the upcoming months. Best best is to use a floor grinder and run it flat and do a full re-broadcast of flake, then sand the flake flat with a swing buffer before applying your top coat. You could get the whole floor with a palm sander and 40-80 grit to dig into the low spots. Brand I recommend is Bulletproof Resins.

Thank you for the response. My plan was as you mentioned, to sand the floor flat with an orbital and some low grit paper, then reflake. I'm only doing a "square" at a time, so I think it'll be manageable without a floor grinder...but you know how "good plans" can go lol.