peterwick
New member
This is the 3rd area of my 40X60 shop floor. I am not advertising anything, and hope everyone can find the right cost / benefit to afford an awesome floor. I poured this last winter, and used a power trowel to get smooth flat floor. Then I found a chance to get "epoxy" coating, and thought I need that! The preparation requires a rough surface, and oil free! so I had to wash and grind the floor, bead blast is better but I can't rent a blaster. it took about 5-6 hours to grind a 20X40 section with a 120v two rotor grinder. I first applied an epoxy moisture vapor barrier, which is a clear smooth coating with a strong adhesion and self leveling properties. On top of that within 24 hours, applied 2 coats of polyaspartic color, then a coating of polyaspartic clear with a dense traction additive, not the plastic powder additive.
It is a two person job, with decent attention to detail. One guy measures, mixes, pours out and edges, other guy spreads and back rolls large area. This is not hard- but it isn't easy either. Need to be fast, consistent, and move on spikes without scratching previous layer.
It is critical that all joints are cleaned and filled, trimmed flat. Any oil residue creates poor surface adhesion and cratering/fisheyes. Any issue gets worse not better as you add layers, the dead mouse in the first coat gets outlined in second, and magnified by clear.
I now love my floor, it isn't all about beauty- its about performance. Cleans so easy its unbelievable, and resists steel wheels, and any chemicals. I haven't tested weld splatter yet, and might be an issue in my shop.
Baby steps- do a small area to develop a method, expect that someday you will be grinding it off to do it again.
It is a two person job, with decent attention to detail. One guy measures, mixes, pours out and edges, other guy spreads and back rolls large area. This is not hard- but it isn't easy either. Need to be fast, consistent, and move on spikes without scratching previous layer.
It is critical that all joints are cleaned and filled, trimmed flat. Any oil residue creates poor surface adhesion and cratering/fisheyes. Any issue gets worse not better as you add layers, the dead mouse in the first coat gets outlined in second, and magnified by clear.
I now love my floor, it isn't all about beauty- its about performance. Cleans so easy its unbelievable, and resists steel wheels, and any chemicals. I haven't tested weld splatter yet, and might be an issue in my shop.
Baby steps- do a small area to develop a method, expect that someday you will be grinding it off to do it again.
