Polyaspartic seal over Tile Clad HS epoxy?

[ATDPInc]

Greetings,
Howdy, we'd been applying polyaspartic broadcast applications from last fall up to this summer, when I found with high heat/humidity some of our batches "cooked" real fast. Thus, I checked with my poly & epoxy suppliers to see if using the epoxy for the "bed-coat", then poly for the top was feasible and got 2 yeses.

Yet now today, a competitor told me our customers would soon have major problems with the polyaspartic seal bonding to the epoxy. Can any of you lend me a rational/objective point of view?

Thanks so much.

Dave

 

[CreteCoater]

I see no problems over a full broadcast. Have done it many times without problem.

 

[ATDPInc]

Thanks Crete. What confounded me, is he stated the epoxy, cured, is a solid substrate, whereas the poly remains flexible, so they don't actually ever bond. Yet, as I thought about it, what's the difference with putting the poly over concrete, being the concrete is a solid substrate? lol

 

[CreteCoater]

On a full broadcast the poly would be bonding to the chips more so than the epoxy. I have had problems going poly over smooth epoxy before but more than likely due to user error than being uncompatible.

 

[ATDPInc]

Thanks again Crete. So, which direction have you decided to go, instead of poly over smooth epoxy, if I may ask? I've rarely been confronted with that scenario, yet in order to better understand these coatings, I'm interested in what's worked for you.

 

[CreteCoater]

I have been having good results with moisture cured urethanes.

 

[ATDPInc]

I'm glad you've found an alternative route with urethanes. We tried one that our SW rep recommended, but found the dry times to be an inconvenience, which is why I've kept with the polyaspartic clear. Yet, this seems to be a work in progress, who knows where we'll end up? Thanks again Crete.

 

[thegarageguy]

I've been applying polyaspartic sealer over smooth epoxy floors for years and haven't found any problems. We generally stick to polyaspartics is garages because of its great uv stability but generally use high traffic polyurethanes on our interior floors. One thing to note, we always screen and solvent wipe our smooth epoxy floors before we topcoat.

 

[Quantum Coatings]

Check out this article from PaintSquare from a week or so ago,

http://www.paintsquare.com/news/?fuseaction=view&id=8338&nl_versionid=2328

Example of an issue where a clearcoat that should have adhered to epoxy had problems. Clearcoats can be UV stable and may contain UV-inhibitors, but being clear it is almost impossible to stop UV from making it to the layer below, which in the case of epoxy, is not UV stable.

That being said, the article is a worst case scenario, being outside in the heat and direct sunlight. With full broadcast and/or being indoors I would not expect it to be as much of an issue, not to say its foolproof though!

 

[thegarageguy]

first mistake is hiring a painter to do the job. Next mistake is using epoxy for exterior project. It's gonna get chalky, yellow and brittle in no time.

It was most likely application error in my opinion. The times I had urethane come off in sheets was either when dew formed and it wasn't solvent wiped before applying or when the poly was applied after the recoat window.

Moral of the story....don't hire a plumber to frame your house ;p

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Agree with garage guy, poly is fine over epoxy. IMO it creates a more tenacious bond then mcu.

 

[ATDPInc]

Thanks again, everybody.