Polycarbonate or Lexan for Benchtop?

[Rated ///M]

Has anyone used either of these or have thoughts about using them?

I have 17 feet of bench top to cover and was thinking of laying down ply and then putting Lexan over the top for durability.

I would either paint the underside or buy it pre-colored.

Any thoughts on this? Also if its feasible, which thickness?

Thanks!

 

[LutzTD]

Has anyone used either of these or have thoughts about using them?

I have 17 feet of bench top to cover and was thinking of laying down ply and then putting Lexan over the top for durability.

I would either paint the underside or buy it pre-colored.

Any thoughts on this? Also if its feasible, which thickness?

Thanks!

i think you will have a lot of issues with gouges and chemical attack

 

[tolken4]

If you want to go that route, have you thought about using one of the epoxy floor coatings? Such a small area would be relatively cheap, the color combo's are endless. You would just need to make sure it bonded properly which the manufacturer could help you with.

 

[Outlawmws]

i think you will have a lot of issues with gouges and chemical attack

I've use Formica kitchen counter tops a lot (Nothing I've spilled on it in 25 years has damaged it...), and those come with a back-splash so you don't lose stuff over the back. The issue there would be length,but In your instance, I'd think about 12' of that with a 5' steel top at one end, with a big vise on it...

 

[GUNNERKAY]

I have used Lexan for the back-splash. I painted the back side of it like you were talking about and it looked great. I used a Maple top for the bench.

I don't think I would put it on the bench because of the potential for cracking unless you do not do any heavy work on it.

 

[AZ Pete]

I think either will be easily scratched or cracked, plexi-glass more easily scratch and scuffed than Lexan. I prefer tempered hardboard (Masonite). It is cheap, stands up well and it readily replaced, if and when damaged.

 

[GRX]

FYI - Lexan is simply a brand of Polycarbonate. A better question would be "Polycarbonate (Lexan) or Acrylic (Plexiglas)". Chemical attacks will be your enemy!

 

[kartracer23]

$$ will also be your enemy. Ever priced the stuff?

*And I just got a text that my 6' stainless steel Craftsman bench top is ready for pick up - how ironic!

 

[Mandres]

Acrylic cracks, and polycarbonate scratches easily. I wouldn't recommend either one

 

[c_mccann]

Formica would be better hands down if you want a plastic top.

 

[Pudmunkie]

My vote would be Masonite. My dad has it on his setup as an insert so when it gets worn out it is just removed and replaced.

I have yet to do it on mine, but mostly because I like the raw look of the particle board.

Sent from a phone, using thumbs.

 

[FMC]

masonite or formica are pretty decent for light work, if you really think you want the nightmare of polycarbonate just get a piece big enough for you projects, unless it needs to be non conductive Id go stainless and glue it to 3/4 ply

 

[bdamico]

Scotty says transparent aluminum is the way to go.

 

[Maexle]

i use lexan for the top cover of my tool box, i love it, scratch resistance is excellent, chemical resistance is limited but still o.k. (wipe it off immediately and no problems). If you want to be sure about chemical resistance, go for Polyethylene, cheap but not available clear, only semi-trans / milky.

 

[tolken4]

Scotty says transparent aluminum is the way to go.

Awesome!

 

[GRX]

Scotty says transparent aluminum is the way to go.

Awesome!

^^ agreed. Best post of the day!

 

[RobSmith]

I bought a a sheet of insertion rubber about 3/8" thick. It is smooth, wipes down easy and doesn't scratch.

 

[rmuell01]

I bought a a sheet of insertion rubber about 3/8" thick. It is smooth, wipes down easy and doesn't scratch.

this reply caught me off guard. so many replies....

 

[Voi]

In addition to what others have said, if any part of the polycarbonate will be exposed to sunlight it will yellow much more quickly than say acrylic. They do make UV resistant polycarbonate but that's even more expensive.

 

[Falcon67]

For the stuff I do - hot rods, misc engine maintenance - no, I would not use that. Too easy to damage, especially from carb cleaner and such, and way way too expensive. I used painted Masonite (concrete/porch paint) over a sandwich of OSB + 3/4 ply.

 

[2manytoyz]

I work a bit with various plastic. Plexiglas is brittle, and even isopropyl alcohol will cause it to craze and crack. Lexan is great stuff. I've used 1/4" material for workbench tops in the past. You can leave it clear, and slide pictures, drawing, lists, phone number, etc., underneath it. You can't break it, but it will scratch over time. Be sure to sand the edges of the sheet material as it's sharp.

Since we used 4x8' sheets at work for projects, it was a reasonable thing to put on our workbenches.

For home, it's too pricey for me. I skinned the workbenches in 1/4" hardboard. It's cheap, smooth, and easy to replace. I consider this a sacrificial surface. Not good for liquids without sealing it with polyurethane.

 

[bdamico]

I had an acrylic fish tank. It scratched like crazy and I hated it. I can't imagine having a work surface like that.

 

[skloon]

I would be concerned about flamability too, I use white melamine coated masonite that I double sided tape down to the bench, when it gets too gouged or dirty I replace it, I but the damaged sheets for about $3 each