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Polycarbonate Overhead Door

PaddyR

Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2015
Messages
8
Location
London Ontario Canada
Hi, I'm new to the Board, but must admit I've been lurking for some time. I recently posted and introduced myself. I'm located in South Western Ontario Canada about midway between Toronto and Detroit. Live on a few acres and in the process of building (waiting for the permit) a 40x48x12 shop, steel inside and out, spray foam insulation and radiant floor heat. No windows, one 20x10 overhead door, door will have a southern exposure. Winter temperatures in my area range normally from 25F to 35F.
I'm considering a polycarbonate door, looking for opinions and advice based on my conditions.
I apologize if there are threads concerning poly doors, just didn't find them.

Cheers,
PaddyR
 
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rburke65

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Messages
12,349
Location
Canfield, Ohio
Well....I'm no guru on garage doors, but THAT is a large door! "Polycarbonate" door? Is that a clear plastic door? I off to google this......be right back!
 

rburke65

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Messages
12,349
Location
Canfield, Ohio
Well....I learn something everyday on this forum. Polycarbonate panel inserts replacing ....or instead of....regular materials you would find on a garage door. I assume lighter in weight and allow a ton more light into the garage. Good luck. Google them....Tons of info that my help.
 
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PaddyR

Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2015
Messages
8
Location
London Ontario Canada
Yep much lighter, aluminum frame. Poly panels available clear or tinted.
Kicker is they only have about an R3 value. Trying to decide if the southern exposure heat gain will compensate for the heat loss.
 

koditten

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Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
5,528
Location
Midland, Michigan
I wouldn't get hung up on the R value. Even insulated doors only have around a R value of 3.

If you have a southern exposure, you would be picking up all sorts of sunlight for extra heat.

You loose more heat around the edges and the joints than having poorly insulated doors.

Spend money on air infiltration reduction for the biggest gain.
 

MikeF

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 3, 2008
Messages
164
Why so wide but short? 2- 10x10s won't work? Wide farm equipment? We work on a few poly and fiberglass doors at a rail yard. They seem to wear out pretty quick but it is a pretty tough environment.
 
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PaddyR

Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2015
Messages
8
Location
London Ontario Canada
I was initially going with two 12x10 doors but had a couple farmer friends that recently build shops tell me to go with one door. This will allow me to put the hoist in on an angle and overall more versatile.
Cost wise the big door and one opener will be the same or less than two. I'll lose on the engineered beam
 
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MikeF

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 3, 2008
Messages
164
What style opener are you going with? If you are going trolley, see about a slave drive unit. It's essentially 2 trolley tracks ran by one power head. It will extend the life of your top section ten fold. Unless you have high lift then it's a moot point.

A door that wide and built light can only take so much abuse before the sections start to fail, struts only do so much and you'll have some big ones
 

ishiboo

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Joined
Oct 27, 2010
Messages
9,481
Location
Oshkosh, WI
I wouldn't get hung up on the R value. Even insulated doors only have around a R value of 3.

If you have a southern exposure, you would be picking up all sorts of sunlight for extra heat.

You loose more heat around the edges and the joints than having poorly insulated doors.

Spend money on air infiltration reduction for the biggest gain.

Even the cheap doors I buy are r6. The better ones are r12-r16 and beyond.
 

koditten

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
5,528
Location
Midland, Michigan
Yep, that is what is written on the box, but is it really what is says? With all the leak points, you won't be doing much better.
 

kTHREE

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2016
Messages
222
Location
MN
Yep, that is what is written on the box, but is it really what is says? With all the leak points, you won't be doing much better.

Have any documentation on this to back up your claim?
Reports and data?
Comparison to a competent install with proper weather sealing?
 
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