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Polycuramine Application

Grierts

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Just got done Diamond Grinding my Garage Floor (Diama Brush from Home Depot)
(I cleaned, degreased then diamond grinded. After that, I Cleaned and degreased AGAIN, and then acid etched the corners. Then just washed down the corners)

Can I / Should I - use a Concrete Primer (Behr Masonry/Conrete Primer) before laying down the product? (Rust-Oleum Rocksolid)

END GOAL:

2 Coats of Rust-Oleum Rocksolid (400 SQ FT Garage) ( I have 4 boxes of the Rocksolid)

3 Coats of a Polyurethane Topcoat.


(Yes, I know there are FAR superioir epoxies/polyurethanes/Polyspyratics/POLYUREAS. Because of where I am stationed currently, Home Depot is my only Choice)
 
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Shea

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Just got done Diamond Grinding my Garage Floor (Diama Brush from Home Depot)
(I cleaned, degreased then diamond grinded. After that, I Cleaned and degreased AGAIN, and then acid etched the corners. Then just washed down the corners)

Can I / Should I - use a Concrete Primer (Behr Masonry/Conrete Primer) before laying down the product? (Rust-Oleum Rocksolid)

END GOAL:

2 Coats of Rust-Oleum Rocksolid (400 SQ FT Garage) ( I have 4 boxes of the Rocksolid)

3 Coats of a Polyurethane Topcoat.


(Yes, I know there are FAR superioir epoxies/polyurethanes/Polyspyratics/POLYUREAS. Because of where I am stationed currently, Home Depot is my only Choice)
DO NOT use Behr Masonry Concrete Primer. It's an acrylic paint and not compatible with polycuramine. In addition, it would have a weaker bond. DIY home improvement products like polycuramine are thin to begin with and do not require a proper epoxy primer. Two color coats are good. The first one will act like a primer and not look so good due to the higher porosity in the concrete from the grinding. The second coat will give you even color tone and gloss.

Three coats of polyurethane is a bit overboard. Two should be sufficient. What brand of polyurethane are you applying? The only polyurethane I've seen home depot carry is for furniture and wood floors. Varathane is an example. Make sure it's not that. It's not for concrete and will make a yellow tinted mess of things. Unless you stumbled across a good polyurethane for concrete, I would recommend using the RockSolid / Rust-Oleum polycuramine clear coating. It's compatible and will keep Rust-Oleum's warranty in check.
 
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Grierts

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DO NOT use Behr Masonry Concrete Primer. It's an acrylic paint and not compatible with polycuramine. In addition, it would have a weaker bond. DIY home improvement products like polycuramine are thin to begin with and do not require a proper epoxy primer. Two color coats are good. The first one will act like a primer and not look so good due to the higher porosity in the concrete from the grinding. The second coat will give you even color tone and gloss.

Three coats of polyurethane is a bit overboard. Two should be sufficient. What brand of polyurethane are you applying? The only polyurethane I've seen home depot carry is for furniture and wood floors. Varathane is an example. Make sure it's not that. It's not for concrete and will make a yellow tinted mess of things. Unless you stumbled across a good polyurethane for concrete, I would recommend using the RockSolid / Rust-Oleum polycuramine clear coating. It's compatible and will keep Rust-Oleum's warranty in check.


Here is the poly i found


So, i did a quick Google search.

Hot tires can get up to maybe ~200 degrees.

This polyurethane has been tested in at oven at up to 350 degrees..
 

Shea

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I would recommend staying away from this polyurethane. It states on their website that their products are to be applied to wood, metal, and ceramics. Nowhere does it state that it is recommended for a garage, though it does mention interior floors (foot traffic). The technical data sheet lacks information on how it performs as a wear surface and how it reacts to different chemicals via testing as well. It appears that most of their products are designed for art projects. Also, water-based polyurethanes, even those approved for garage floors, have a tendency to develop brown marks from tires and are very difficult to remove.

Not trying to be a buzz kill, but we've seen so many people choose the wrong polyurethane to apply over DIY garage floor coatings. Again, I would recommend sticking to a clear polycuramine. It's chemically compatible for recoats. If you apply anything other than a polycuramine, it will require that you allow the color coat to cure for a minimum of 24 hours, then degloss the surface with 120 grit sandpaper to achieve a mechanical bond. To date, we are not aware of any other product that has been tested with polycuramine to achieve a compatible chemical bond.
 

dangti6

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Here is the poly i found


So, i did a quick Google search.

Hot tires can get up to maybe ~200 degrees.

This polyurethane has been tested in at oven at up to 350 degrees..

I think it’s more about the contraction of hot expanded rubber causing the coating to fail than just heat transfer.
 
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Grierts

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Sheeesh, i appreciate you taking the time to review everything.

Is the only clear polycuramine, sold by Rust-Oleum ?

Do i have any other options ??
 

Shea

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Is the only clear polycuramine, sold by Rust-Oleum ?

Do i have any other options ??
That's correct. It will either be labeled Rust-Oleum Polycuramine or RockSolid by Rust-Oleum. Polycuramine is a proprietary blend created by Citadel. Rust-Oleum purchased the company.

 
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Grierts

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That's correct. It will either be labeled Rust-Oleum Polycuramine or RockSolid by Rust-Oleum. Polycuramine is a proprietary blend created by Citadel. Rust-Oleum purchased the company.


You are amazing!!!!

How many Coates for everything??

2 or 3 base coats ???

How many top coats???
 

Shea

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I'm glad I can help. We have a lot of experience with RockSolid from all of our reader's questions, reported problems, and feedback. Since you are grinding, you will need two color coats to achieve the proper thickness for good color tone and gloss. One coat of clear is sufficient for the light to medium flake coverage.
 
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Grierts

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I'm glad I can help. We have a lot of experience with RockSolid from all of our reader's questions, reported problems, and feedback. Since you are grinding, you will need two color coats to achieve the proper thickness for good color tone and gloss. One coat of clear is sufficient for the light to medium flake coverage.
Roger That !!

I am going to first apply a base coat of the Rust-Oleum Moisture Stop.

I will Use my Blower, apply the Moisture Stop, and then Use a pressure washer to remove the extra residue, as well as clean the floor.

( I will keep my garage door closed after I finish everything.)

After the floor dries completely (Couple of days) I will then apply my first coat of Rocksolid.

How does this sound ??
 

Shea

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Just as an FYI, Moisture Stop is not a coating. It's a modified sodium silicate densifier that does not leave a film on the surface. Follow the instructions closely. After 2 hours you need to flush the surface with water. This means lots of water. Pressure washers are typically a low volume water source and will drive water deep into the concrete requiring more time to fully dry throughout.
 
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Grierts

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Just as an FYI, Moisture Stop is not a coating. It's a modified sodium silicate densifier that does not leave a film on the surface. Follow the instructions closely. After 2 hours you need to flush the surface with water. This means lots of water. Pressure washers are typically a low volume water source and will drive water deep into the concrete requiring more time to fully dry throughout.

So what is the best way to flush the surface ?

Just a water hose ??
 
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Grierts

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Check out the photos !!!

I think I may just go all black, I do not like the amaretto.

What do you think @Shea ?


(Side Note: The Amerreto Rocksolid, actually pours out clear. It comes with the tinted coloring/powder, that you need to mix in.)
(I initially poured a small portion straight on the floor and noticed it was clear. I thought the powder was like a metallic powder or gloss)

I understand this sounds hella convoluted.

But I think I am going to mix the black with the Clear Ameretto, and spread this on as the second coat. I do believe the black will cover up everything.

As a reference for anyone who may find it useful.
I have attached the ingredient list for the following items: Rocksolid Clear TopCoat / RockSolid Pearlescent Floor Coating Pearl Black / RockSolid Metallic Floor Coating Kit Amaretto

What are your thoughts on this process that has gone somewhat sideways ???
 

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Shea

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Yes, the metallic powder needs to mixed in a bucket before application. If you are thinking of going all black, you may need two coats. Hopefully you pulled the tape up before the coating set? The two colors look good together though.
 
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Grierts

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@Shea

This is the second coat of the black.

I also added a boarder. I actually think it looks A LOT better with the black boarder.

Tomorrow I shall do the second coat or the Amaretto. And the day after that i shall be doing the clear top coat.

Side notes : i added some glitter to the second black coat. I shall also do the same for the Amaretto.

For the clear top coat, I am also going to be adding some glow in the dark sand. Eager to see how this turns out.


Thoughts on everything???
 

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Grierts

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Second coat of the Amerreto

@Shea

What do you think ???

I went way too heavy with the flakes in certain areas. I should have practiced before i threw them. But this is my first time ever doing something like this.

This is before i have dusted off the extra flakes. ( This is about 5 or 6 pound's of flakes)

I have squegee and a leaf blower. What is the best way to remove the extra flakes ???

Last step is to remove the extra flakes and do a topcoat or polycuramine.

Thoughts on everything????.
 

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Shea

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Once the flakes are applied there is no way to remove excess effectively. They are adhered for good. The key with color flakes is to take smaller pinches and toss them toward the ceiling. This allows them to disperse much more evenly as they arc up and then settle down through the air. Tossing them directly at the floor or in a small arc will create the type of results you currently have.

One option is to apply a clear coat, then toss flakes into that to even things out. One more coat of clear after that will lock everything in.
 
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Grierts

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Once the flakes are applied there is no way to remove excess effectively. They are adhered for good. The key with color flakes is to take smaller pinches and toss them toward the ceiling. This allows them to disperse much more evenly as they arc up and then settle down through the air. Tossing them directly at the floor or in a small arc will create the type of results you currently have.

One option is to apply a clear coat, then toss flakes into that to even things out. One more coat of clear after that will lock everything in.
I have two boxes of clear, but I was just going to combine them into one, and do one final coat.

I used a leaf blower to remove the excess that did not stick to the ground.

I definitely threw the flakes towards the ceiling, but I was grabbing them by the fistful.

It is what it is.


The floor is definitely not even with some epoxy flakes sitting higher than others.


Should I run into any issues when I am applying my final topcoat ??

Final Topcoat shall be: Topcoat, Glow in the dark sand, and some glitter.. All mixed together thoroughly!!

Excited to see the final product. !!!
 

Shea

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Do not mix both kits together at one time! The larger volume of resin will build up too much heat and you will not get it applied in time. Each kit is a predetermined volume for this reason.
 
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Grierts

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Do not mix both kits together at one time! The larger volume of resin will build up too much heat and you will not get it applied in time. Each kit is a predetermined volume for this reason.

Glad I did not.

I saved the second batch for later.

Last Question for you @Shea .

I want to do paint my outdoor driveway. Seal and protect. Not concerned about color..

Recommendations ???
 

Shea

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I don't recommend that you paint your driveway. Paint is not durable and will peel up. In terms of coatings, many are not U.V. stable and will amber. Some are approved for outdoor use, but they can make a driveway very slippery when wet. It's even worse if you get snow.

Your best bet is to apply a penetrating sealer. These are non film forming and will not change how the concrete looks or the slip resistance when wet. They are not stain proof, but many do a good job at resisting stains if you don't let them sit long. Below are a few examples.

 
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Grierts

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I don't recommend that you paint your driveway. Paint is not durable and will peel up. In terms of coatings, many are not U.V. stable and will amber. Some are approved for outdoor use, but they can make a driveway very slippery when wet. It's even worse if you get snow.

Your best bet is to apply a penetrating sealer. These are non film forming and will not change how the concrete looks or the slip resistance when wet. They are not stain proof, but many do a good job at resisting stains if you don't let them sit long. Below are a few examples.

@Shea

PS102 VS Armor SC25. For a Hot and Humid Climate - Outdoor Use.

Also: Do you not recommend a Densifier ??


I love your website sir. You are super Knowledgeable and Helpful !!
 

Shea

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I'm glad it has helped you out. I would recommend PS102 over the SC25. PS102 is designed specifically for outdoor concrete and concrete that is not troweled to a very smooth finish.
 

Armorpoxy

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Hi, sorry your 'flecking' didn't come out as planned. To add to this string we recommend for 'novice fleckers' to lay down a sheet of clear plastic and practice tossing the flecks to see how they land. Small pinches thrown up seem to work best until you get the hang of it. Once you have practiced you can gather up the flecks from the plastic to lay them on the floor.

Another thing we recommend for flecking is to separate out into quarters your quantity of flecks and use only one container on 1/4 of the floor so you don't use too much/little as you go along. Simple proportioning helps greatly we find.
 
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