Hello all, Im new here and am hoping to get some good feedback. I am starting plans on revamping my garage floor. My question is what is a better option polycuramine by Rust-Oleum or a standard epoxy kit thru epoxymasters.com? Im looking at paying double for the epoxymasters.com kit however it comes with tools and anti slip media. Im okay with going more expensive but for what I need, it would be overkill. Through reading reviews it seems that either brand has issues mainly due to improper prep work or application. Outside of poor application what would be best for everyday parking and occasional maintenance to include car jacking/lifting.
Polycuramine or epoxy flooring?
- Thread starter Ej949
- Start date
Be carful when choosing Polycuramine, as they don't give much material in the packages, and they don't disclose this, so what happens is that you end up needing much more material than they claim, so it ends up costing more. Do some research and find out how many ounces of liquid you are getting in those kits vs, an epoxy kit and you will see that they charge hundreds of dollars per gallon last time we looked into this.
You may do better and get much better support along with a Garage Joirnal discount by dealing with one of the vendors who participate here rather than a a low priced option.
The prep is not tough for our coatings, and others, and our SPGX one part polyurea kits can be applied to your floor with no prep for about 60 cents per sq ft with just a good power washing as long as no sealer was used previously.
Lots of excellent choices here to learn about.
You may do better and get much better support along with a Garage Joirnal discount by dealing with one of the vendors who participate here rather than a a low priced option.
The prep is not tough for our coatings, and others, and our SPGX one part polyurea kits can be applied to your floor with no prep for about 60 cents per sq ft with just a good power washing as long as no sealer was used previously.
Lots of excellent choices here to learn about.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Agreed, search the forum, much to see and plenty to learn.
Shea
Well-known member
We have an article on the RockSolid polycuramine which you can read in the link below. It's the same as the Rust-Oleum product. When Rust-Oleum purchased RockSolid they soon started putting out the same kits in the Rust-Oleum name.
ArmorPoxy hit the nail on the head about Polycuramine. The biggest problem with these kits is that the coverage rates are overly optimistic. The coating is also thin. We have hundreds of comments in our article and most are about not having enough in the kit to complete the job or the floor looking dull because they tried to stretch it out. We recommend reducing their stated coverage rates by 15%.
https://allgaragefloors.com/rocksolid-polycuramine-garage-floor-coat/
EpoxyMaster makes a good product and we know that their customer service is good, so you shouldn't have any regrets if you go that route. Plus, their product is better than the polycuramine in terms of durability and coverage.
Another option you may not have considered is a single-part polyurea. This newer coating has proven to be an excellent choice for the DIY installers. Like the polycuramine, it is easy to apply. Additionally, it goes down almost twice as thick and has much better scratch resistance, chemical resistance, and it will not get a yellow tint if exposed to the sun.
https://allgaragefloors.com/polyurea-best-garage-floor-coating-kits/
ArmorPoxy hit the nail on the head about Polycuramine. The biggest problem with these kits is that the coverage rates are overly optimistic. The coating is also thin. We have hundreds of comments in our article and most are about not having enough in the kit to complete the job or the floor looking dull because they tried to stretch it out. We recommend reducing their stated coverage rates by 15%.
https://allgaragefloors.com/rocksolid-polycuramine-garage-floor-coat/
EpoxyMaster makes a good product and we know that their customer service is good, so you shouldn't have any regrets if you go that route. Plus, their product is better than the polycuramine in terms of durability and coverage.
Another option you may not have considered is a single-part polyurea. This newer coating has proven to be an excellent choice for the DIY installers. Like the polycuramine, it is easy to apply. Additionally, it goes down almost twice as thick and has much better scratch resistance, chemical resistance, and it will not get a yellow tint if exposed to the sun.
https://allgaragefloors.com/polyurea-best-garage-floor-coating-kits/
MaDMaXX
Active member
I have the Epoxyshield polycuramine double kit, i know from your review it's not going to cover the advertised amount (can't even do full garage right now, will get another kit in the spring to complete it)
For the double kit (450sqft advertised) i was going to attempt 400sqft, the floor is relatively smooth and not too porous, do you think this would be a realistic expectation?
Short version; i only want to do as much as the kit allows, if it doesn't reach, it doesn't reach, i will get more, as this is my first attempt at anything like this, i wanted to see how best to apply this without stretching it out? is it obvious when it won't go any further? how can i ensure i don't apply it too thinly?
Shea
Well-known member
What you need to do is mark off either the walls or floor where 400 square feet ends. Once you mix the product, pour it out in ribbons as equally as you can over the area and then begin rolling.
Keep in mind that properly prepping the concrete is still important or it will not adhere. Also, you can't just end the coating at a random line and then continue some time later on. Coatings are not like paint and do not blend like paint on a wall does. The area where a new coating overlaps a previously cured coating will be very obvious and stand out. If you have contraction joints in the slab then you would be wise to end there as they will act like a natural border.
MaDMaXX
Active member
Oh... really? i hadn't realised i wouldn't be able to 'continue on' from the stop point i create, that doesn't sound good. How bad is it?
I guess i may as well ask here, my floor continues outside the main door by about 8 inches, i don't think i want the coating to show outside, so maybe a masking tape line at the point the door contacts the floor?
Total area is 762sqft - i'm assuming i will be good with two 'double garage' packs?
I guess i may as well ask here, my floor continues outside the main door by about 8 inches, i don't think i want the coating to show outside, so maybe a masking tape line at the point the door contacts the floor?
Total area is 762sqft - i'm assuming i will be good with two 'double garage' packs?
Shea
Well-known member
It's very noticeable. The roller lap marks from the new coating will show over the old coating. If you have contraction joints in your floor (saw cuts or "V" shaped grooves) they will make for a good place to terminate a coating. Either that or have both kits on hand and have someone mix up the second kit as you are finishing the first. It's important to keep a wet edge to avoid the overlap marks.
Also, you run the risk of not having the colors match perfectly if you use one kit now and then purchase another some other time down the road. Ideally you want kits that produced within the same time frame. Rust-Oleum has had problems with this.
Yes, terminate your coating at the garage door. Duct tape pressed hard into the concrete works well for this. Coatings tend to seep under regular painters tape. 2 kits will most likely work.
Also, you run the risk of not having the colors match perfectly if you use one kit now and then purchase another some other time down the road. Ideally you want kits that produced within the same time frame. Rust-Oleum has had problems with this.
Yes, terminate your coating at the garage door. Duct tape pressed hard into the concrete works well for this. Coatings tend to seep under regular painters tape. 2 kits will most likely work.
b-boy
Well-known member
Yikes - $200 for a gallon that covers 40-50 sq ft? I'm looking at $6K to cover my pole barn floor. That's more than I paid for the concrete.
MaDMaXX
Active member
Gah, thank you, but, gah! This complicates matters.
I'll have to try and order the 2nd kit asap, no guarantee on batch though
Just to clarify, i still use the pouring on the floor method they say to use, but you're saying pour out the whole pouch each time?
I'm guessing that having some mental markers for each 200 sqft section so i can spread the whole packet down right at the start of each segment so as not to spread to thin?
I'll have to try and order the 2nd kit asap, no guarantee on batch though
Just to clarify, i still use the pouring on the floor method they say to use, but you're saying pour out the whole pouch each time?
I'm guessing that having some mental markers for each 200 sqft section so i can spread the whole packet down right at the start of each segment so as not to spread to thin?
Shea
Well-known member
That's correct. It won't take you much longer than 10 minutes or so to roll 200 square feet.
MaDMaXX
Active member
Alright, sounds good, thanks for your help.
I saw the amazon reviews showing the colour matching problem, even within the same double pack, i can only hope that might have been restricted to the dark grey version - i'll be using the regular light grey.
I saw the amazon reviews showing the colour matching problem, even within the same double pack, i can only hope that might have been restricted to the dark grey version - i'll be using the regular light grey.
i did my house about 12 years ago with that sherwin williams epoxy. if I had to do over it be carpet. The floor look good the first year, then it turn yellow and now coming up in big hunks, they claim its tough enough for forklift traffic but it cant handle office chair wheels.
im afraid how much it cost to redo, what $5000 every five years? carpet looking good
im afraid how much it cost to redo, what $5000 every five years? carpet looking good
Thank you for the info armorpoxy, shea, legacyindustrial, and others for all this info. I will research polyurea kits as recommended. Also, I feel with the information provided throughout this thread about polcuramine has helped me decide to stay away from it. I want the best for my budget. I hadn’t thought of application techniques before but it makes good sense to pour in ribbons to spread the product out evenly. I will continue my research but now to compare a good polyurea vs epoxymasters produts.
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We double checked with Rustoleum. They include 152 oz of liquid in their 2.5 car garage kit, that's all. That means that if the average garage is 250 square feet they are quoting coverage of about 525 square feet per gallon. We recommend out 100% solids Armorclad goes down around at approximately 160 so over three times thicker. (We include three gallons for a two-car garage).
You would get very little thickness at 525 per gal. The numbers speak for themselves.
You would get very little thickness at 525 per gal. The numbers speak for themselves.
ard
Well-known member
no guarantee on batch though
In my past, with split batches, ive been able to mix it all together to get uniformity. (This before activating or adding part B)
Not sure if that helps
MaDMaXX
Active member
Yes. I have not read a single review where they claim the coverage is as expected.
I wanted to go with the Rocksolid, but some were claiming it took them 6-8 kits for a 2 car garage....
Exactly....nowhere on their boxes or tech data do they disclose the ounces of contents, you need to call them directly to find out. Convenient for them!
You can do much better by dealing with one of the vendors on the GJ. Better value and better support.
You can do much better by dealing with one of the vendors on the GJ. Better value and better support.
